[Paul Greenhalgh]

Thanks Tony.  I just need a signal….a few millivolts….it doesn’t even need to be a full 12V, >8.5V will do,  on the ignition circuit.  Maybe I could even pick up from the 22SI alt?  Just trying to find an easy and safe connection point.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Thanks Tony.  I have the VV4 manual and read that carefully:  it was not helpful.  I finally got hold of a local Mercruiser dealer who has a subcontractor expert in VV.  He was super helpful & really knew his stuff, though by his own admission spent most of his time on outboard and gas engine integration, rather than diesels.  He said VV4 did NOT display individual engine fuel burn even though it captured this data…as I had found, only combined fuel burn is displayed.  BUT he told me of a work-around:  the back of the VV4 screen has a NMEA2000 port and by buying an (over-priced) Raymarine adapter cable, I could connect the VV4 directly to my AXIOM Pro MFD.  It has a ‘dashboard’ app that takes in most (but not all) the VV4 data feed and displays it really well…including the individual engines’ fuel burn (+ RPM, coolant temps, engine and gear oil pressure for each engine).

If you want to see ALL the VV4 data on a Raymarine MFD, you have to buy a “Smartcraft Gateway” and put this between the MFD & the VV4.  Then you get a larger version of the same graphics shown on VV4 and data like Load and Throttle %, Boost pressures, etc etc..  I am happy to look at the VV4 screen for this stuff rather than pay $600 for the Gateway. 

Hope this info helps others. 

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Following Tony’s advice above that the hand priming pump is a Bosch component, not Cummins, I searched on-line and pretty quickly discovered there are both Bosch original and Chinese knock-offs of these priming pumps readily available. The Bosch original is only around $20 on ebay…so why would you bother with a copy?

These priming pumps are sealed units and not repairable.

Attached pic shows both the box and part number that my replacement came in and the pump itself. It is supplied with a copper washer.
Removing the old/installing the new is a fiddly job. Best to dis-mount the throttle cable bracket aft of the pump that gets in the way, but even so you will need a small-ish 17mm spanner or a very small adjustable wrench. The body of the pump is a soft aluminium so go easy.

With the old pump removed, I saw a copper “washer” in the throat of the P7100 itself. Thinking this was the copper washer from the hand pump, I tried without success to pick it out. I couldn’t, so I don’t know if it was just crushed in place or a copper mounting surface to match the new washer. In any event, I used the new copper washer supplied with the pump and tightened all up gently. No leaks after a long run and the new pump works fine. I have ordered a 2nd priming pump to preventatively swap out the one on the other engine of my twins.

Hope this helps others: there have been several posts about leaking priming pumps over the last few years, with no-one reporting if/how they eventually fixed the problem.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Following Tony’s advice above that the hand priming pump is a Bosch component, not Cummins, I searched on-line and pretty quickly discovered there are both Bosch original and Chinese knock-offs of these priming pumps readily available. The Bosch original is only around $20 on ebay…so why would you bother with a copy?
These priming pumps are sealed units and not repairable.
Attached pics show both the box and part number that my replacement came in and the pump itself. It is supplied with a copper washer.
Removing the old/installing the new is a fiddly job. Best to dis-mount the throttle cable bracket aft of the pump that gets in the way, but even so you will need a small-ish 17mm spanner or a very small adjustable wrench. The body of the pump is a soft aluminium so go easy. With the old pump removed, I saw a copper “washer” in the throat of the P7100 itself. Thinking this was the copper washer from the hand pump, I tried without success to pick it out. I couldn’t, so I don’t know if it was just crushed in place or a copper mounting surface to match the new washer. In any event, I used the new copper washer and tightened all up gently. No leaks after a long run and the new pump works fine. I have ordered a 2nd priming pump to preventatively swap out the one on the other engine of my twins.
Hope this helps others: there have been several posts about leaking priming pumps over the last few years, with no-one reporting if/how they eventually fixed the problem.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Following Tony’s advice above that the hand priming pump is a Bosch component, not Cummins, I searched on-line and pretty quickly discovered there are both Bosch original and Chinese knock-offs of these priming pumps readily available. The Bosch original is only around $20 on ebay…so why would you bother with a copy?
These priming pumps are sealed units and not repairable.
Attached pics show both the box and part number that my replacement came in and the pump itself. It is supplied with a copper washer.
Removing the old/installing the new is a fiddly job. Best to dis-mount the throttle cable bracket aft of the pump that gets in the way, but even so you will need a small-ish 17mm spanner or a very small adjustable wrench. The body of the pump is a soft aluminium so go easy. With the old pump removed, I saw a copper “washer” in the throat of the P7100 itself. Thinking this was the copper washer from the hand pump, I tried without success to pick it out. I couldn’t, so I don’t know if it was just crushed in place or a copper mounting surface to match the new washer. In any event, I used the new copper washer and tightened all up gently. No leaks after a long run and the new pump works fine. I have ordered a 2nd priming pump to preventatively swap out the one on the other engine of my twins.
Hope this helps others: there have been several posts about leaking priming pumps over the last few years, with no-one reporting if/how they eventually fixed the problem.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Also….is spiral steel reinforcement really needed in this application ?

[Paul Greenhalgh]

That’s 1.75″ ID. Thanks for the recommendation.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

I hope it is OK to stitch this on the back of this thread rather than starting new..

Same problem, but with a 6BTA 370hp M-3, CPL 2008. Manual lift pump is leaking when operating but not otherwise (no leak when engine is running and vessel underway). No hard-starting or evidence of air leaks.

Is the solution the same as that given above for the 4BTA?

thanks

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Roger are you saying that you replace your House and Start batteries every 3-4 years?

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Do you have fuel coolers installed (immediately after RW pump)? If yes then these should be checked and /or removed altogether….see lots elsewhere on this site for details. The experts here may well advise changing overnight to 160 t/stats…but wait for them on this.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Rob….not to hijack the thread, but I’ve often wondered what the difference is between the QSB 5.9s and 6.7s (of equivalent hp or horsepower aside). Why was the increase in volume thought necessary or desirable ?

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Don….Could you expand please on your comment about all the related jobs that need to be done when replacing mounts? I am in a very similar situation to Steve…. Bushings mounts …12″ double-up monsters at aft/trannie end that appear spec’d for 2200lbs way more than needed for a 370 Diamond with TD 507; forward singles that seem to have the right rating. actually all look ok despite being 25years old but their mounting brackets are pretty corroded. If I’m going to remove and treat or replace the brackets I guess I’d renew the isolators at the same time.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Great contribution Blue Magnolia…..that rings true and honest.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Thanks to all….just the practical advice I was looking for. I’ll be limiting my search to non-pod models going forward.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Available here but not cheap: https://www.dieselpartsdirect.com/3897513

Getting one made locally if you have one available from the other engine might be cheaper. I have the same issue….fuel filter on my Stb engine is fitted to Stb side, making for awkward access. The oil filter is next to it so I need to fix both issues. At least a remote mounting kit is available for the oil filter.

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Thanks Rob!

[Paul Greenhalgh]

I haven’t heard of the ‘isolator bolt’ option before. Is this considered a worthwhile upgrade for 6BTA’s? Does it really make a difference to noise?…or have other benefits?

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Rob: taken off every 5 years ( I only rack up 85-100 hours/year) and serviced ‘Seaboard Way’. Not due for 18 months…but you are dead right, access easy (walk-in/stand-up engine room) so no issue with fitting a helicoil. Do I need lock-washers at all…or should I use them but change to much thinner/lighter ones?

[Paul Greenhalgh]

Rob I operate my 66,000 lb 57′ motor yacht almost entirely in displacement mode…. running typically at just 1800rpm; i take her up to 2000 + for 10min at end of most cruises because Tony told me to years ago. I change out standard 180 t/stats every 4 years and they are “due” again this year so yes I’ll be doing that.

Given H X’s are already off, where’s the best place to connect the hose?

Tks

[Paul Greenhalgh]

I’m only seeing a little sludge or “mud” Rob….but it wouldn’t feel right to me to just drain the old coolant & immediately refill with new. I drained the old coolant cold, as I wanted to take the exhaust risers & HX’s etc off the engine & bring them home to work on all on the one visit to the boat. Surely a fresh water flush couldn’t hurt before I put new coolant in ….I’m thinking it must be possible to do this to the block while I have everything off?

[Author]

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