[Scott Lambert]

I had the same issue with my QSB. Cleaned it out as best as I could and haven’t had any further problems.
I realised that the zincs were too long and hit the bolt housing in the middle of the HX. They would then bond to the bolt housing and when they were removed the brass cap would come out leaving the remaining zinc in place. Obviously whoever was changing the zincs before I owned the boat left them there to build up. Now I cut about 1/4 inch off the end of the new zinc with a hacksaw before I put it in. No more problems

1 user thanked author for this post.

Robert Vetrano

[Scott Lambert]

Thanks Tony, you are right as always and the spare parts web site is wrong. I have now pulled my after cooler apart and my O rings are definitely the thin ones.
The story is that I serviced my after cooler about 18 months ago but I noticed I was getting a bit of grease bleeding out under the end caps, I also noticed a tiny bit of corrosion which is visible in the photo just under the water outlet. It occurred to me that the turbo air pressure may be pushing the grease out and that maybe my O rings hadn’t sealed as well as they should have. When I saw that the Cummins spare parts website specified the thick rings I thought that might be the cause.
Seems I was panicking about nothing (pretty standard for me), my after cooler is on the bench now and in very good shape. So my question now is is it usual to get a bit of grease bleeding through under the cap?

[Scott Lambert]

Isn’t the engine being rotated backwards in that video?

[Scott Lambert]

Thanks Corey, I didn’t realise that, in which case the upgrade kit is definitely the way to go.

[Scott Lambert]

Hi Eddie,
Yes I am still running the SIM module. You need that to drive the analogue instruments. Even though they look analogue they actually use the digital smartcrap language provided by the SIM. The key here is that the engine uses J1939 data but the instruments use a different (smartcrap) data protocol. The SIM coverts J1939 to smartcrap.
If you want the SMX display but want to keep your old analogue instruments the easiest way is to use the first option Corey outlines above “Smartcraft to SMX digital display upgrade kit”. This system uses smartcrap language to drive the SMX display.
That wasn’t available when I fitted my SMX display so I used option two “SMX Seaview J1939 single digital display kit”. If you use this option you replace the harnesses connecting the ECU to the display. The beauty of this is that the SMX display uses the J1939 data straight from the engine without converting it to smartcrap language. It is a simpler more reliable system. The down side is you will lose your analogue gauges unless you run a separate data bus from the SIM.
If you really want to keep your analogue instruments option one will be the easiest.

[Scott Lambert]

Hi Eddie,
I changed my entire smartcrap with SMX including new wiring harness and 40 pin plug so I have J1939 to the SMX display. I like the old analog gauges too so I ran another can bus from the 40 pin plug sending the smartcrap info to the old gauges. Sounds hard but actually it was…, no actually it was pretty hard.

[Scott Lambert]

Thanks guys, I had it in my head that the service interval was 1000 hrs, but now I have re checked QSOL it is actually 5000. Everything sounds fine, so I think I will leave it for while.

For info I tried the socket on the alternator pulley method but it didn’t work, the belt just slipped. Thats why I asked about the injectors. I totally agree though, messing with the injectors is beyond my pay grade. Maybe I need new belts after 12 years?

[Scott Lambert]

Thanks Tony, I love simple answers!

[Scott Lambert]

I had a similar problem with my QSB380, with Glendinnig throttle control. It would run fine but not go beyond 1500 or 1600 RPM. The problem was intermittent, some times it would run fine and then on the next start the problem would return. It took me ages to track down, I got the trouble shooting manual, checked all the alarm codes, could not find anything. Turned out to be the Electronic throttle control processor, the white computer mounted in the engine room. I was able to borrow a replacement and swap it, that was the only way i could confirm it.
However, since you have two engines you could swap them over. Plug the starboard engine into the port socket on the throttle control processor. This would tell you if the problem is with the engine or the throttle control system. Do this in a safe place, away from the dock!

1 user thanked author for this post.

Tony Athens

[Scott Lambert]

3/4 inch garden hose into top of raw water strainer. I keep the hose coiled up in the engine room when not in use.

3 users thanked author for this post.

Justin Riege, Corey Schmidt, Scotth

[Scott Lambert]

My 6 inch wired exhaust hose had been sikaflexed in place. I used a sharp knife to cut, following the spiral winding of the wire. Peels off like an orange.

[Scott Lambert]

Engine hours are memorised by the ECM. So unless the ECM has been changed the total engine hours displayed on Vessel view will be correct. For example, if you replace a vessel view display with a new display (as I did with an SMX display) the correct hours will be displayed.

[Scott Lambert]

Its not a great photo but in the bucket is last years bottom AC zinc after 12 months without raw water flush. Like Steves it is just a stub.

[Scott Lambert]

Here are my after cooler zincs after 12 months. Boat lives in salt water with fresh water flush after each use using 3/4 inch garden hose.

[Scott Lambert]

While we are on the subject of QSB valve adjustment, my QSB 5.9 380hp is 11 years old with 1100 hours. As far as I am aware the valve lash has not been adjusted. When you say typical 5000 hrs between adjustments would that apply regardless of age? Or is it something that should be done every 10 years or so? QSOL says every 5000 hrs or 4 years but I have not heard of anyone doing it every 4 years.

[Scott Lambert]

My understanding, limited as it is, is that the idle speed is controlled by a voltage signal from the throttle system. So if you have a Glendinning throttle system you would need to make a change there. As far as I am aware this is not possible, but Corey may know a bit more? Otherwise you could try Glendinning? For the record my QSB 5.9 idles at 600 rpm and alternator output is fine.

[Scott Lambert]

Another option is to go the full SMX. I had a failure of my vessel view display and decided to upgrade to SMX. It was quite simple to replace the harnesses and I had no problems with my digital throttle system (Glendinning). You will lose your analog instruments, but you gain a lot more space at the helm station. The main benefit of the SMX system is its simplicity, J1939 data all the way. I have attached a photo of my helm station and all the smart craft wiring I removed.

2 users thanked author for this post.

Corey Schmidt, Rob Schepis

[Scott Lambert]

Correct me if I am wrong but shouldn’t the ECM record total fuel used? This will tell you how hard the engines have been used overall

[Scott Lambert]

I fitted a battery monitor when I replaced my house batteries. Like Tony says new batteries are a big investment and I have found the monitor extremely useful. I always know how many Amp hours used, what the charge/discharge rate is and what the battery voltage is. I would recommend fitting one, even though they are not cheap.

[Scott Lambert]

Thanks Tony. While I am there I am going to pull the elbow off and inspect the turbo. Apart from a new gasket, do you recommend any sort of sealer at the turbo to elbow joint?

[Author]

Replies