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- Cummins Marine Forum Topics
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Heat Exchanger core damage
This topic has 4 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago December 2, 2016 at 6:00 am Servicing the heat exchanger on one of my QSC 540 motors I discovered the water deflector at the end of the core has some holes eaten in it. Ā The slots on the end cap sit over the damage so it seems like over kill to replace it. I’m not sure what action to take? Ā Repair it with JB weld, lead solider, silver solider or just leave it along?
4 RepliesDecember 2, 2016 at 4:30 pm Thanks for the advice Tony. Ā I thought you had pretty much seen it all. Ā The boat was a bank short sale so IĀ anticipated issues like this. Ā A guy loosing his boat most likely is not very religious changing zincs.Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Urgent and Time Sensitive Help on 480CE
This topic has 9 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 29, 2016 at 6:43 pm Over the past several months I have read nearly every post on the Series C message board. Just as everyone on this board I have learned a ton of information from Tony which has guided my search for a boat. I have until tomorrow to accept a 2004 Sea Ray 420 Sedan Bridge so, I need some advice pretty quickly. Here is the background on this boat. Both engines have just under 400 hours on them and the boat is in immaculate condition. We agreed on a …
9 RepliesDecember 2, 2016 at 12:22 pm You want to “match at 2200 RPM” and the rest takes care of itself. For your “prop guy” that means 270-275 HP max at 2200 RPM……….Lets see how he does. TonyLast Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Help with a few issues after engine rebuild
This topic has 11 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 24, 2016 at 8:35 am First off Happy Thanksgiving! Here is a little background. I bought a 28 Albin with a 370 Cummins (SN:60260856) in it that had sank prior to me buying it. I had the motor rebuilt and it now has about 20 hours on it since rebuild. The motor only had 20 hours on it before the boat sank last year. The motor runs great, but has a few bugs to work out. I figured it would given its history. 1.) The fuel shutoff solenoid is giving me a few issues. From…
11 RepliesDecember 2, 2016 at 7:45 am What you are looking at is the result of your Walker Sep doing a crap job–It is feeding oil to your Turbo Intake that is the result– 1)– Ā Remove the air side of the turbo –Clean all “Spic & Span” Ā Use a good solvent (Brake Cleaner or lacquer thinner) and a paint brush 2) The air side of you aftercooler is also probably a mess–When was the last time the aftercooler was serviced on the bench per my …Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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removing turbo and exhaust riser
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This topic has 26 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 7, 2016 at 9:13 pm 17 year old boat, exhaust riser is pitted I’m told. The port side has been replaced. Also told my turbo needs looked at. It seeps a little oil at high rpms. So I’m wondering how tough it is to remove these 2 things. Things to do to prepare for removal. I’ve read some nuts/bolts may be stuck so once off I may need to cut them? Any tips and advice is appreciated.
November 30, 2016 at 4:51 pm Yes, use an anti-sieze
26 Replies
Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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SMX Raw Water Pump
This topic has 7 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 29, 2016 at 2:28 pm I have had the SMX raw water pumps installed on my 6bta -370 for about 5-6 years now. At what point should I think about replacing the cam, seal and bearings? I have replaced the impeller once and will do it again this year. Although last time after 2.5 years they still looked like new.
7 RepliesNovember 30, 2016 at 7:02 am Thomas wrote: ..Do you carry a spare SMX pump onboard with you? No, I don’t, just 2 spare impellers/o-rings and a pullerLast Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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A few more questions from a cummins newbe
This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 28, 2016 at 7:19 pm First off big thanks Tony. Now for the questions. As for removing the coolers off the boat is there any benefit if I can get both the cores out with them still attached to the motor? As for both I mean after cooler and heat exchanger. The blue coolant is the best coolant for the motor or is there something better? Both motors run at 170 degrees at cruising RPM 2200. This seems cool to me but I am used to truck engines. Motors are 2006 QSC 540hp.…
3 RepliesNovember 29, 2016 at 7:37 am All “O” rings should be replaced, all heavily greased.. There are no gaskets #4: Cummins QSC Aftercooler O-Ring Kit TonyLast Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Question on Starting, and some observations
This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 27, 2016 at 10:11 am Hello – We took our boat to the fuel dock today, and had an interesting experience during start up. Ā The boat had not been run in about a month. Ā The PortĀ engine had to spin for about 15 seconds before it would fire. Ā That is a first for this boat. Ā StarboardĀ fired right up. Ā Engines are 6cta 400 hp with nippon denso pumps. Ā The only thing different is that I had been using the lift pump priming handle on Port just to get a feel for it inc…
3 RepliesNovember 28, 2016 at 5:49 am If the return line has a dip tube then it remains submerged in the fuel tank. Ā If the return line is submerged air cannot enter the system via a fuel drain back due to a weep in a check valve in the fuel system.Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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QSM 670 – a tale of rebirth
This topic has 15 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago
November 6, 2016 at 4:25 am I used to post on boatdiesel as Skipjack. Ā Ā In 2012 I bought a used Northern Bay 36 with a QSM 670 with a chequered history, some of which was known, some unknown. Ā The original engine was manufactured in 2003, blown up in a Searay in 2005, rebuilt in 2007 and dropped into my boat in 2008, and restarted in 2009. when I got it in 2012 it only had 550 hours , but also had 9 years of marine age. The boat was overpropped and on a rugged trip…
15 RepliesNovember 26, 2016 at 11:45 am i have been busy and didn’t start the repower thread I promised but I ended up buying a reman QSM 1-670 from Cummins and matching it with a new ZF-311. i have 48 hours on the new combination, gained 5-8% efficiency and and am very happy how it all worked out.Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Oil leak
This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 23, 2016 at 4:24 pm I thought I had a rear main seal leak but my mechanic found this.doesnt look like corrosion but it looks like something hit it. First picture is of leak and second is where I guess leak is coming from.bill
3 RepliesNovember 24, 2016 at 7:30 am Cool pic, almost looks like Miloski’s. Ā Did you pay the turkey’s to clean up the leaves – they did a great job! Yes the oil source discovery is a little something extra to be thankful for.Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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1000 Hour Service
This topic has 12 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago
November 14, 2016 at 8:09 am Diesel novice here, that is in third year of ownership of twin diesels on a 36FT express.Ā TheĀ engines ran flawless all summer, and on the last run to the winter storage facility, which also built the custom express.Ā Had 1000 hour service performed on pair of 2008 Cummins QSC 8.3 600 HO engines by factory techs.Ā Complete heat exchanger dismantle and pressure test.Ā One week prior, storage yard changed Racors and in-line fuel spin on filters.Ā …
12 RepliesNovember 23, 2016 at 2:11 pm I found this photo on my computer. Ā As you can see it’s very straightforward. Ā What is not visible in the photo, is the 7 foot hoses I added to the valve. Ā These allow me to do a hose to hose connection in the cockpit, keeping any spray out of the engine room. Ā The hoses also give me the capability for emergency dewatering (I have screen boxes with quick connects in the low part of the bilge. This is an inexpensive solution which requires …Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Belt change 02 370s
This topic has 4 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 19, 2016 at 5:27 am This is basic stuff, but I was hoping someone could walk me through the process. I’m pretty mechanically inclined, changing after coolers and the raw water pumps, but I was able to do so by following articles. Replacing only belts for now, no tensioners yet, unless I find they need it when I get in there. Just want to make sure I do it in the proper way in case there is some strange outlying item I can mess up.
4 RepliesNovember 23, 2016 at 7:12 am Thanks for the pics. Ā Yeah the Cummins serp belt is a decent setup to swap out, much better than the double V-belts on my prior Yanmar 6LP, matched set or not those double V-belts just never seemed to get along with one another! Great that you have the room in front of the engine to do the idler pulley upgrade at some point. Ā Good to hear that all sounds good up front for now but remember “preventative maintenance” Ā is addressing som…Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Turbo Question – HX40M on 6BT
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 22, 2016 at 10:54 am Had my cylinder head reworked. Ā Wet manifold flange was in good condition. Ā The mounting flange on the Turbine Housing has some pits. Ā I have it at a machine shop to have the flanges surfaced to have smooth mating surfaces. I have looked at turbos and rebuilt turbos. Ā But I have not been able to find a provider online for the Water Cooled Turbine Housing 3537678. Ā Are these available? Ā The turbo blades look to be in good condition, there is no e…
1 ReplyNovember 22, 2016 at 6:25 pm Larry, I really have no history of the engine as to why you are having to do these “machine shop procedures”… Why not post some good pics showing the “surfaces” and internals of the components Ā why these things need to be done.. Unless this engine is in the 10,000+++ hour Ā range or more, resurfacing components would only need to be done if the installation Ā or overall set up of the engine and/or installation was not…Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Dip Stick Extension
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 22, 2016 at 3:54 pm Is it possible to get an oil dip stick extension like the one in the picture for a QSC? Ā It is starting to get old climbing down into the bilge every time.
1 ReplyNovember 22, 2016 at 5:25 pm Kyle… we should be able to get that for you… Drop brad a note with your engine serial number and let’s see what we can do. [email protected]Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Cooler Maintenance
This topic has 7 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 10, 2016 at 7:28 pm I put this up on boatdiesel.com but thought I’d try here too. I had my coolers serviced with an ultrasound cleaning. I was surprised to discover that every lick of paint was removed right down to bright aluminum. Do I paint the inside of the cooler housing as well as the outside to provide some barrier to the seawater exposure? If so, any paint recommendation? Also there is some pitting on the cap/housing mating surface? I was planning on …
7 RepliesNovember 22, 2016 at 5:17 am Glad things went well.. TonyLast Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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New style head
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 17, 2016 at 6:12 pm just found some paperwork in boat from the sale of the boat to the person I bought boat from.in 2010 on port engine a new style head with updated valves installed plus #3 cylinder and turbo charger installed.in 2011 same thing except #4 cylinder.was this a common acurrance on this engine with Cummings replacing head and valves due to valves not seating properly or perhaps something else .it was covered under Cummings warranty good will program.b…
1 ReplyNovember 21, 2016 at 8:09 am Walter, Without some history to this thread or question, not sure what you are asking–Got to keep all in one long string. TonyLast Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Engine Mounted Circuit Breaker
This topic has 8 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 18, 2016 at 6:21 am In the Preheater post this heater diagram was uploaded by Tony.Ā I boxed in red what is listed as a “fuse”.Ā Tony or anyone, please correct me if I am wrong but that “fuse” is actually the engine mounted 10amp circuit breaker that I show in the attached picture.Ā For anyone not familiar with this breaker, if the connections to the base of it come loose you will shutdown, no different than shutting of the key switch.Ā Chec…
8 RepliesNovember 20, 2016 at 5:08 pm Oh for sure…. sorry I didn’t make it clearer. The blower gets it’s power elsewhere, I’m only looking for switching power for the relay as you now know. I’ve struggled to find a constant 12v with the engine running, and I want to avoid going anywhere near the fuel solenoid.Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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6BTA5.9 Preheaters
This topic has 12 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 15, 2016 at 7:01 pm The mechanic who was previously looking after our engines disconnected the preheaters on the top of the aftercoolers and told me when I asked it was because the engines didn’t need them in our hot climate and they are not good for the alternators. Is this true or should I reconnect them? The other thing is he just disconnected them by taking the leads off the terminals at the preheaters then taped them up. It looks untidy so if they are no…
12 RepliesNovember 20, 2016 at 6:23 am Thanks for info .i probably won’t use them as a standard practice as the downside seems to heavily outweigh the upside.Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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After cooler
This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 17, 2016 at 6:44 pm What is the purpose of the rubber like strips on the fins of the after cooler? Should they be replaced when servicing the after cooler?
2 RepliesNovember 17, 2016 at 10:02 pm Once again, Rob hit the nail on the head… they are worthless! The trashcan is the ultimate destination for those things…Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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QSM11 prop size
This topic has 7 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago November 15, 2016 at 11:58 am Hello all, New to this site. Like many others I have experienced exhaust leak issues on my QSM’s. They are 2003 builds, commissioned in 2004. The data plate hp is stamped 650. Now have 2500 hours. Within the first 500 hours my starboard had leaks and since then there have been three services on the motor, the last being with new manifold and turbo. In the last year my port has succumbed to the same issue, but for some time exhibited very l…
7 RepliesNovember 17, 2016 at 7:31 pm No problem Jack. Ā Finest KindĀ is gorgeous. Ā She just has to raise some fish lookin’ that good! My sportfish also has a sharp entry and flat stern section (even flatter than Finest Kind) making for a very easy planning boat and a super stable platform at anchor or drift..Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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QSM-11 Initial Ignition of Engine
This topic has 7 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago
November 9, 2016 at 9:31 am I have 2003 QSM-11 with pretty low hours. When I first turn on the main power to the engine, then turn the key on and wait for its testing routine. I then press the start button, it start then immediately cuts out. If I leave the main power on but turn off the engine and let it sit for a week or so I’ll have the same problem. I then go to the main power for the engine, turn it off, then turn the power and the key back on, wait for the test…
7 RepliesNovember 15, 2016 at 6:49 pm Before getting carried away, try replacing the ignition rectifier behind the helm station. Ā No guarantees, but a cheap part to replace known to create odd starting issues. Ā I had odd ignition issues on a 2006 QSB 5.9 that were solved when I replaced the rectifier and verified the connections were good.Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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Heat Exchanger core damage
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