Help with a few issues after engine rebuild

[Nick Maudlin]

First off Happy Thanksgiving!

Here is a little background.

I bought a 28 Albin with a 370 Cummins (SN:60260856) in it that had sank prior to me buying it. I had the motor rebuilt and it now has about 20 hours on it since rebuild. The motor only had 20 hours on it before the boat sank last year.

The motor runs great, but has a few bugs to work out. I figured it would given its history.

1.) The fuel shutoff solenoid is giving me a few issues. From what I can tell it has 3 wires. A ground, a hold wire that holds the solenoid up and a pull wire that retracts it for the hold wire to hold it.

Once the key is on it is not being retracted. I can manually retract it and it will stay up. I bought a new solenoid thinking that was the issue, but it is doing the same thing.

My question. Is there a relay or fuse on the pull wire?

 

2.) I believe my gauge panel is having a ground issue. My low voltage alarm goes off randomly even though I’m getting 14 volts and my gauges bounce all over randomly. See the attached video link.

 

Let me know what y’all think and thanks in advance.

 

Nick

 

Topic

[Tony Athens]

What you are looking at is the result of your Walker Sep doing a crap job–It is feeding oil to your Turbo Intake that is the result–

1)–  Remove the air side of the turbo –Clean all “Spic & Span”  Use a good solvent (Brake Cleaner or lacquer thinner) and a paint brush

2) The air side of you aftercooler is also probably a mess–When was the last time the aftercooler was serviced on the bench per my “protocol” ?

3) Read  both of theses a few times:

 

Crankcase Ventilation

 

EnviroVent Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) for Cummins Marine Diesels

 

 

Tony

 

[Rob Schepis]

Air Side Slobbering

Looks to me what is referred to as slobbering…oil accumulation inside the air side of the turbo.  Less than great air ventilation and the engine acts as a big vacuum cleaner and sucks in the engine blow by over time..Is that an air-sep system?

[Nick Maudlin]

It’s not on the air intake side. I hope these pictures help.

[Rob Schepis]

Turbo Oil Leak

Nick Maudlin wrote:

… Next on my list is a slight oil leak from the turbo…

Post some pics.  Is it the oil feed at the top of the turbo or oil slobber around the air-side clip?

 

 

 

[Nick Maudlin]

Rob Schepis wrote:

Nick, What is the need for that deck hatch that someone added behind the starboard helm station? I owned a 28TE for 8 seasons and did all of my own work and don’t recall any need for added access there? Maybe something was added in that area. That was the factory holding tank area.

I believe it was installed for easy access to the racor and oil change pump. I don’t really like it.

[Nick Maudlin]

Just wanted to say thanks!

The Mag switch was one of the issues causing my fuel solenoid to not close. The switch was bad and the wiring was incorrect.

 

The gauges were a long shot to get working correctly and more importantly being able to trust after they went underwater. So I replaced the whole Cummins gauge panel and it works perfect.

 

Next on my list is a slight oil leak from the turbo.

 

I also put a new raw water pump on. That must be the worst designed location for a water pump I have ever seen!

[Rob Schepis]

Hatch Added Behind Starboard Helm

Nick,

What is the need for that deck hatch that someone added behind the starboard helm station?  I owned a 28TE for 8 seasons and did all of my own work and don’t recall any need for added access there?  Maybe something was added in that area.  That was the factory holding tank area.

[Nick Maudlin]

Thanks guys.

 

Thanks for for confirming my wiring theory on the solenoid.

I think the mag switch is the missing link that I have not checked yet. I’ll look at it later today.

The red reset button is still there and will be replaced with a regular 20 amp fuse. I will let you know if this help.

 

i have going through this most allow the electric with a dielectric grease and WD, but will do it again.

 

Thanks,

 

Nick

[Rob Schepis]

Engine Mounted Circuit Breaker

http://www.sbmar.com/community/topic/engine-mounted-circuit-breaker/

See the above regarding the “red button” Tony refers to. You may have painted it white.

Great post Tony!

 

 

[Tony Athens]

Nick,

 

You need to learn how the fuel solenoid works———-All of the B and C’s with Inline Injection pumps (any vintage) use a 3 wire external fuel pull-in solenoid that has two circuits… One circuit is the “pull-in circuit”” (high current draw operated by the auxiliary mag switch thru the start circuit) and the other circuit is the “run”” or “hold circuit” operated by the ignition circuit (purple lead, about 1-2 amps)..

 

Test #1———Turn on the key, but DO NOT start the engine–LIFT the solenoid and see if it stays UP–It should. It you turn off the key it should drop–Do it a few times.

 

#2——You have 3 wires on the solenoid–Black, White & Red……Black must go to a SOLID GROUND. The White needs to be tracked over to the mag switch under the starter–This needs to be a #12 wire with a solid connection to the mag switch–Look at the diagram. The RED turn to PURPLE in the engine harness and is the hold circuit.

 

All plugs and connections, even the circuitboard———100% of All need to be CLEANED, brushed (tooth brush and air)  & scrapped as needed and all much but sprayed with a petoleum based di-electric like WD-40, LPS #1 or #2,  or Corrosion X.. Also, do you have the RED BUTTON next the the aftercooler?  If so, that will always give you issues if it got wet- I’d put a 20A Fuse in it’s place.

Tony

1 user thanked author for this post.

Jerry Morris

[Nick Maudlin]

The video link and a few pictures.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zVuaOuHkCbI&feature=em-upload_owner

These photos are from after the rebuild.

 

[Author]

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