• Creator
    Topic
  • #12016

    Jerome Billett
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Sweet Escape
    Engines: Cummins 6CTA M3
    Location: Fort Myers, FL
    Country: USA

    I put this up on boatdiesel.com but thought I’d try here too.

    I had my coolers serviced with an ultrasound cleaning. I was surprised to discover that every lick of paint was removed right down to bright aluminum.

    Do I paint the inside of the cooler housing as well as the outside to provide some barrier to the seawater exposure? If so, any paint recommendation?

    Also there is some pitting on the cap/housing mating surface? I was planning on using the “Seaboard” technique with Alco Metalube copiously applied to all mating surfaces. The machine shop guy suggested applying some RTV Silicone to seal things recognizing it partially spoils the benefit of the lube.

    So questions:

    1) Use just Metalube and the o-Ring as planned?

    2) Use just RTV and the o-ring?

    3) Use RTV on the pitted surface (perhaps letting it dry partially first) and goop up the rest with metalube?

    Any tips appreciated.

     

Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • #12526

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Glad things went well..

     

    Tony

    #12514

    Jerome Billett
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Sweet Escape
    Engines: Cummins 6CTA M3
    Location: Fort Myers, FL
    Country: USA

    I installed a new cooler assembly yesterday and sea trial today. What a work of art! More beautiful than that painting my wife just bought. Nice. Running 2700 rpm both engines, quick out of the hole. Thanks for your help. I will still test the old core to confirm if it was leaking or not but just for interest sake. There doesn’t seem to be any point in taking a chance on it. BTW, the new cooler has the air side condensation drain valves. Any opinion on the effectiveness, longevity or advisability of this upgrade?

    #12038

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Picture “core 6” Ā  —–99% chance the core is leaking on the area shown. Ā You need to pressure test the core at 25 PSI for 24 hours..

    The housing if iffy at best–We could probably save it using our “bag of tricks” for “one assembly”..

    Aftercooler core test set-up (2)

     

    Aftercooler core test set-up (1)

     

    Tony

    #12037

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Let’s see the entire sides of the core..

    Are you planing to pressure test the core itself?

    Your pic of the end with quite a few smashed tubes.. Do you know what caused that?

    Tony

    #12032

    Jerome Billett
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Sweet Escape
    Engines: Cummins 6CTA M3
    Location: Fort Myers, FL
    Country: USA

    Photos of core from pitted housing.

    #12027

    Jerome Billett
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Sweet Escape
    Engines: Cummins 6CTA M3
    Location: Fort Myers, FL
    Country: USA

    Housing and core end photos attached.Core fins to follow.

    #12023

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Jerome,

    It’s hard to tell as I really need to see the entire Ā (360 degree) circle of the core.. You are borderline at best whether you can save the housing with assembling if using a product like GE UltraGlaze 4000. DO NOT use a typical RTV–It has to be a non-acidic based RTV.

    I want to see your cores too..

    Tony

Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.