[Bill Stenger]

I have had to cut many of them off. If I remember correctly i use a cutoff wheel for 3 of them and a sawzall or something for the fourth.

[Bill Stenger]

Those mount brackets seem to be upside down to my eye. If you flip them it will get you much closer!

2 users thanked author for this post.

Edwin Harvie, Ty Anderson

[Bill Stenger]

Thank you Tony.

#3 I thought it require more prop than that. That is good news i may not have to buy a new wheel. I absolutely plan to prop to 3100-3150. Or whatever ends up being safe according to boost and egt’s.

#4 This is standard straight configuration non vdrive. Reasoning for possible hi mount turbo is for high dry riser clearance. As i am sure it will very tight in back coming off the turbo. I have attached a pic of the back of the yanmar for riser clearance idea. Obviously i won’t really know until the cummins is mounted. Yanmar turbo looks good inside with this old riser configuration. But i want the new one higher so i can engine off flush.

[Bill Stenger]

Q. #4 Can i delete the fuel cooler in this setup? Boat holds 120 gallons? I frequently run it down to 1/4 tank on trips. I understand that once i have the engine installed i can check temps and determine if i need to add one later. Hoping someone has a cheat answer for me.

Got the hull all cleaned up and got all the oil leak and stains out. And paint job would be nice but it will have to be next time. Ready to go to the installers!

[Bill Stenger]

The beauty of a spin on filter is that if you loosen the filter a few turns and have the primer bulb kit recommended. Then you just pump the primer bulb until a little fuel overflows from filter one. Then tighten it and loosen filter two and push the air out then tighten it. No need for a bleeder screw.

I have zero input on your other questions as i have not done the swap yet. Still fighting woth my old racor.

[Bill Stenger]

Here is some photos of boat and new engines etc.

[Bill Stenger]

Dt Diesel
David 321-377-9176

He rebuilds, repairs, installs. Give him a call he is great.

[Bill Stenger]

George:

On a severe overheat anything is possible. The possibility of it being an aftermarket head is scary as well due to there being some very low quality chinese parts floating around for these engines now. Exhaust manifold is another very good possibility. Only downside is there is no great way to test them without removing or replacing them. If that is not the culprit you are back to block or head.

On another note if you do decide to list this Tiara for sale depending on which model it is I may have a friend interested. Please give me a call or text @ 561-308-6083. Thanks.

[Bill Stenger]

I called sunpower a local yanmar dealer and mastry engines also another fl dealer. They both used an pink aftermarket alternative that was available locally and thats what I used. Im struggling to remember the name at the moment. I will pop back in here when I find it.

[Bill Stenger]

I would pull the pan for this one unfortunately. Then use vice grips and hope they ease right out. Drilling in the aloted space seems like a nightmare with low % of not damaging the threads in my opinion.

[Bill Stenger]

I change all my Batteries every 3-4 years regardless of if I have issues or not. That is a fair life expectancy. Sometimes they will fail before then as well. Change all your batteries and don’t look back.

[Bill Stenger]

Tony,
1.The ship has clearly sailed on the baring them over part! Should I still rig up a pump and filter and circulate oil for 30 minutes? Even though I have cranked them a bit? I also left out a critical detail that previous “ mechanic or potential buyer” did start atleast one engine on silicone spray. I don’t know if they started the one with the bad starter or not.

2 Would two new group 27 batteries hooked up in series suffice instead of a 4d? I have no use for a 4d after running these engines and have a brand new pair of 27’s ready to go in my boat that i just bought. If I have to change the cables. I will just pull them and start them in the shop. There is zero room on starboard engine for a cable change.

3 I assume the lift pumps are bad. But can’t test them due to lack of access until the engines are out. I have not cracked open the fuel outlet port yet. I will check 12v & ground to the lift pumps once engines are removed.

4. Anyone know the correct fitting for the main oil gallery? I will find a picture on here to show the location.

5 This boat has the round smartcraft gauges and a pile of analog gauges as well. I have not seen any of the analog gauges move yet. I will attach a picture of the smartcrap gauges below. Its a bad picture but the only one I have at the moment. Out of town working again.

Thank you!

Rob
I think You’ll are right about pulling them. I was
just thinking it was easy test bench to fire up and see what I was working with. Im hoping to atleast hear them run, build oil pressure, and not pour smoke or any major internal failure. Before I get into cleaning all connections and etc. could be tearing them down for repairs if needed. But i will surely go through every connection. Then coolers, belts, filters, hoses, paint etc. Hopefully they are good internally. Its a crap shoot.

Thank you!

[Bill Stenger]

Thanks Rob, i will take a look at that as soon as i get back in there. Seems like it is in the spray pattern of the raw water pump when it failed with previous owner. That plug would be a nightmare if it started spraying 100 miles into the bahamas.

[Bill Stenger]

I have attached some pictures of the layout and fitment. Exhaust elbow is currently off, pulling the oil pan now.

Interior console dimensions at smallest spot.
41” width x 52” length. There is endless room below deck height.

Trying to fix the Yanmar up for now to try and catch the end of the calm seas here. While im shopping for an engine and planning the swap.

[Bill Stenger]

Tony, I don’t mean to frustrate you by any means! This boat does not have sealed deck hatches any where. There is 8 hatches they all have gutters but serious rain will make its way through the bilge. None of them are water tight. So yes it is a wet bilge. The boat was kept in the water for 4 years before I purchased it. There is always a 1/2″ – 1″ of water in the bilge below the pump. On the trailer is no different I jack the bow up and the drain plug is always out on the trailer. It does however always have some rain water in the bilge in front of the shaft log and under the engine.

[Bill Stenger]

Sounds like you have air locked that engine. Here is what I would do.

Make sure filters are full of fuel.
Pump primer pump until hard and squeaking.
Loosen a few injection lines at the injector side and crank engine with the throttle wide open and transmission in neutral. As soon as it starts coughing immediately pull throttle back to idle. Once running go to the engine and tighten the lines that are lose. The other cylinders should pick up within a minute or so.

[Bill Stenger]

Rob.

I don’t really know If it would be considered wet or not. The yanmar oil pan bottom is about 8″ above the bilge at the deepest spot. Seems most of the rust damage is where a raw water pump was leaking in the past. And the bottom of the oil pan near the drain plug and dipstick. There is always some water in the bilge between rain and or seeping.

[Bill Stenger]

Tony.
1. These boats were offered from the factory with 6Bta. So I am sure they fit I have seen one installation that seemed to have decent room for service. As far as qsb is concerned that may be a shoe horn with the larger coolers and expansion tank location. I will get exact interior console measurements today. It is definitely not the driest environment in there. Yanmar oil pan is about 8″ above the bilge at most. I will update with some pictures of engine fitment and layout as well.

2. I am happy to hear you approve of the use of a 63 gear with both engines. That will make mounting easier as I likely will not have to move the gear mounts. Or buy a new coupler. I agree that 1.5 ratio seems best suited.

3. Boat is currently running a 19×22 prop with 1.5″ shaft. I may be able to step up to a 20″ but I will have to take some measurements to verify. It weighs around 8000 Lbs loaded heavy. I would really like to see 25 + Kts.

For example my last boat was a 28′ Seavee with a 250 6Bta and Vf63 @ 1.5-1 with 18×22 prop. That boat has nearly identical running surface, hull, and weight. It cruised 22Kts. @ 2300 and Wot 26-27 Kts. @ 2700.

Q1. I know I will need a larger exhaust to be fiber glassed in. Currently only has 4″ wet pipe from shower head back. Will I need 5″ or 6″?

[Bill Stenger]

I have the same exhaust elbow on my yanmar 6lp Tony. It has 6400 hrs with no service history. Should I pull the elbow and inspect or just replace it? Opinions? I don’t know the cost on one but it can’t be that much compared to a dry riser or new turbo or engine worst case.

[Bill Stenger]

Thank you Tony! I will search for it.

[Author]

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