Getting qsb 380’s running after sitting 4 years.

[Bill Stenger]

Hello guys, I bought this old junk boat for this pair of 2004 -2005 qsb 380’s. These have been sitting for 4 years and have not been well protected from the weather. They will need lots of love and rust removal and paint .Both engines turned over slowly with a jump box so i bought them. Boat is now in my yard and Im attempting to get them running before i pull them.
Exhaust are nice and high but still prone for failure.
Engine #s
46417783
46485035
Cpl’s 8464

Q1. Should there be a lift pump that i hear run with initial key on? Then run again during cranking? I do not hear any lift pump on either engine. Oil is full and fairly clean. Coolant is full and still has some color. I hooked up a battery and a jump box.

Starboard engine turned over very slowly a few times and now the starter seems dead. Light clicking like the solenoid is bad. I hope that engine isn’t tight with rust or something. So that engine i will have to likely test run after I pull it. ( Lack of access to starter)

Port engine spins at a fairly normal speed. But i have not heard any lift pump run.

Q 2. The smartcrap gauges both power up and read 0 hours and 390 gallons / 440 gallons used. Do these Engine computers “forget” hours if left without battery power for years?? Or does the smartcrap gauges store the hours?

Q 3. Is there any easy way to rig up a fuel tank and external lift pump easily just to test run?

Topic

[Bill Stenger]

Tony,
1.The ship has clearly sailed on the baring them over part! Should I still rig up a pump and filter and circulate oil for 30 minutes? Even though I have cranked them a bit? I also left out a critical detail that previous “ mechanic or potential buyer” did start atleast one engine on silicone spray. I don’t know if they started the one with the bad starter or not.

2 Would two new group 27 batteries hooked up in series suffice instead of a 4d? I have no use for a 4d after running these engines and have a brand new pair of 27’s ready to go in my boat that i just bought. If I have to change the cables. I will just pull them and start them in the shop. There is zero room on starboard engine for a cable change.

3 I assume the lift pumps are bad. But can’t test them due to lack of access until the engines are out. I have not cracked open the fuel outlet port yet. I will check 12v & ground to the lift pumps once engines are removed.

4. Anyone know the correct fitting for the main oil gallery? I will find a picture on here to show the location.

5 This boat has the round smartcraft gauges and a pile of analog gauges as well. I have not seen any of the analog gauges move yet. I will attach a picture of the smartcrap gauges below. Its a bad picture but the only one I have at the moment. Out of town working again.

Thank you!

Rob
I think You’ll are right about pulling them. I was
just thinking it was easy test bench to fire up and see what I was working with. Im hoping to atleast hear them run, build oil pressure, and not pour smoke or any major internal failure. Before I get into cleaning all connections and etc. could be tearing them down for repairs if needed. But i will surely go through every connection. Then coolers, belts, filters, hoses, paint etc. Hopefully they are good internally. Its a crap shoot.

Thank you!

[Fireisland1]

I would yank them and work like a gentleman.

[Rob Schepis]

Way too tight a setup to work with. I’d be pulling them first and setting them up on wood blocks, etc and would start by going through every electrical connection – harness plugs, power leads, grounds, etc. They are coming out anyway, no reason for bloody knuckles here….

2 users thanked author for this post.

KevinS, Tony Athens

[Tony Athens]

Sitting 4 yrs in a less than nice environment & basically zero history?
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1) 1st thing I do is get and oil change type pump, and pump the oil in the sump thru a simple 10-30 MIC hyd filter back into the main oil galley for 30 minutes.. Then I’d look at the top end, see that we have oil and bar the engine over..

Sounds to me we are past that, but it’s not too late as we still need to do a lot of cranking , so it seems..

2) Get yourself the minimum of a 100% new 4D fully charged battery — new 2/ POS & NEG direct to the starter so we can crank at 150 RPM or more. Super clean greased connections on all

3)–You need to sort out the “priming pump–maybe they are both “done”? This is a super early engine based on the early belt wrap and the early fuel pumps were always suspect.. Gout fuel at the outlet on the “on-engine” filter?

4) Put a 3/8″ OB squeeze bulb in line on the line to to the engine–“pump away” while cranking with good oil up top end.. Install a 0-100 OP gauge on the main oil gallery–you should “see” OP while cranking..

5)————————-What are you looking at as to “gauges” ??

That’s how we do it………………………………

[Author]

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