[Tony]

I have the same motors with about 1200 hrs. Had mine for about 18 months and done all cooling system and various other things…

All the information on this site is great! As Steve said – aftercoolers were an issue through lack of maintenance – one housing was cracked and I had to get a new one from SBM. Replaced the pumps and oil coolers. Had some pitch taken off the props. Starting to sort out the wet exhaust now…

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Thanks for the posts Bill – interesting to see how it all works

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Thanks Tony.!

PS

For sale – 2 x WF2073s. Going cheap! 🙂

Tony Athens wrote:

If you started with good coolant, a WF2073 should go 1000 hours with no issues..

[Tony]

Hi

Mine has WF2073 Fleetguard fitted at last service, so I have spares for that.

Tony – any suggestion on how often to replace? They were last done about 15 months ago.

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

😍

1 user thanked author for this post.

Kevin Lee

[Tony]

Thanks heaps Russ! Looks like it was time well spent. Great setup.

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Thanks Rob – here are some pics. Just taking the high spots off the cooler to allow the end caps to lay flat and make a good seal.

Rectorseal would have helped! Next time… 🙂

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Rob – curious, I have 6CTA M2s. Same advice for the rectorseal on the end caps?

My mechanic filed the body ends until they made a good seal with the gasket and caps… thoughts on that?

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Hi Russ

Sounds good. Do you have any photos by chance??

Cheers

Tony

Russ wrote:

I started in the lazarette with an inexpensive plastic quick disconnect that has a shut off on both sides and is easy to access. From there I routed hose, clamped to the bottom of the cockpit sole out of the way, to a T near the geny then on to a T between the sea strainers. I tapped all 3 strainer caps and installed ball valves. Each outing when we return to the dock I put 1 side of the disconnect on the dock hose, turn it on, connect it and open both quick connect valves (after insuring the ball valves are all closed).

I can then open 2 of the strainer ball valves, shut one thru hull and start that side. Puts nothing but fresh water to the running engine and gives pressure relief out the other strainer even when I shut it down. I run the mains for 5 minutes and the geny for 3. Probably overkill but after 3+ years and 650 hours I serviced the aftercoolers (purchased new, pre-serviced, from Seaboard when I bought the boat) and there was minimal build up on bottom of a couple of the tubes in the bundles which slid right out. This is despite the not having installed the flush system until 2 years in with 470 of the 650 hours on them.

Bonus: It insures I do a post cruise check every time, with 5 minutes per engine to crawl around and exam things. And when I do pull zincs (which last way longer) to check them you can barely detect a brackishness to the water sitting in the after cooler. I am definitely glad I spent the time and took the effort to install this!

Thx Tony and crew for all the great tips and tricks you share with us!

[Tony]

Thanks Tony A – I will have to switch to NN later on, I have 4 x 3000’s lined up for the next couple of services 🙂

Cheers

Tony K
in Tassie

[Tony]

I am running LF3000 on M2’s. Keen to hear more…. 👌👍

Tony

[Tony]

Hi Tony

Thanks heaps.

I think I am just too cautious about pushing the engines that hard! I will try to rustle up the courage 🙂

Serial numbers
45395393
45395370

You gave me this document a while back for my CPL.

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Nice work – they have come up well anyway ! Engines will be happier now!

Tony

worldcatlemon wrote:

The engines only have 283 hours but they sat for several years with brackish water in the lower aftercooler. I don’t think they were ever serviced since new but I’m doing complete service, all new belts, hoses, thermostats, filters etc… to bring them up to date.

[Tony]

How long ago was the last service – that AC core looks majorly blocked….

Tony

[Tony]

Thanks heaps Rob. Appreciate that info! ?

[Tony]

Doh!

Try again…

[Tony]

You need this info from the data plate

[Tony]

I have MG-5061. See attached screenshot, for checking oil level that I was after. 30 Mono is in mine.

I have the manual if you PM me your email address.

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Thanks heaps Rob. I have some neoprene sheet that sounds like the go.

Cheers

Tony

[Tony]

Hi

Can someone please explain to me what the ‘mag switches’ do? I believe mine have quite rusty connections… if they are what I think they are! ??

Thanks in advance

Tony

Justin Riege wrote:

Sounds like you’ve got a pretty good handle on it…

You’ve probably thought of this stuff too…

Do you have fuel coolers? Might want to inspect those, or maybe remove them.

Are the isolators still solid? Now would be a good time to replace any that look/feel suspect.

How do the electrical connections/components look… Mag switch and starter. Clean them up the posts and remake the connections with fresh grease.

Sounds like you take great care of that vessel!

[Author]

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