Forum Topics Started
-
- Cummins Marine Forum Topics
-
-
6BTA Molded Hose: Gear Cooler >> Heat Exchanger
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago
March 31, 2023 at 6:15 am The raw water molded hose that exits the gear cooler, drops down under the turbo and comes back up to feed the heat exchanger is no longer a single molded hose.Ā It is now supplied as a stainless tube and two elbow hoses.Ā There is concern of chafing of the molded hose. I swapped both of mine the other day (circa 2002) and one was good but one was damaged.Ā Not a difficult swap with everything in place.Ā The picture with the turbo off is an old …
1 ReplyApril 1, 2023 at 6:29 pm The history goes kinda like this.. Up to about 2000-2003-ish all the engines came with the 2 small hoses and the pipe.. –Then, someone thought Cummins could save $$ by going to a one-piece molded hose,Ā and eliminate a couple of potential leak points. Sound reasoning except that the hose diameter, especially whenĀ under 15+ PSI was two close to the flywheel housing and would chafe through.. Not all did, but enoughĀ did it that after enough…
-
SMX Double Double vs Racor
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago
May 29, 2022 at 6:33 am Yes, we preach about the benefits of the SMX DD over the Racor but who better than to tell the real story than the “last chance” filter himself. My current boat had a Racor 900 using a 10micron filter.Ā I used it a few seasons and then switched it out to the SMX DD using the FS1001 and FF5013. Attached are side by side pics of the FF5285 last chance filter change outs that I cut open: The filter on the left is 150 engine hours with t…
2 RepliesMay 30, 2022 at 5:53 am 100+ hour Mud filters cut open as well, no mud, no crud…
-
USCG Fire Extinguishers Regs Updated
This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 2 years ago
March 7, 2022 at 11:50 am We can’t forget that there’s more to check out for Spring commissioning than zincs & impellers… https://www.boatus.com/news-room/release/boatus-new-us-coast-guard-fire-extinguisher-r
2 RepliesApril 30, 2022 at 6:40 am Tony in paragraph 5 of the BoatUS article, it states that 1 10B is not equal to 2 5B extinguishers.Ā a 20B is equal to 2 5B.Ā Confusing at best.Ā Also the age of the boat has an impact on the regs.Ā boats 2017 model year and older may continue to carry the BI, BII until expiration at which point those get replaced with the new spec 5B, 20B. 2018 model year and newer must have the new spec….. There is a good article on Boattest.com that cov…
-
Pencil Zinc Install
This topic has 19 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by 2 years ago
May 8, 2017 at 9:21 am In an effort to not ignore the basics, I’m posting these tips on replacing zincs. The aftercooler and heat exchanger zinc cap threads are 1/2″npt and the gear cooler zincs caps are 3/8″npt.Ā Having taps of each size in your “zinc kit” is a good idea so you can chase those threads clean.Ā Thread the new pencils onto your caps and snug them up you do not want them coming lose and banging up the tube ends of your coole…
19 RepliesApril 27, 2022 at 5:44 pm I will chime in also. I Rectorseal #5Ā the zinc threads themselves.Ā Ā Then I use pliers or a vise and a wrench to tighten the zinc into the cap.Ā Ā Snug firmly onlyĀ asĀ the smaller ones can be weak and break if overtightened. Seals the threads so they are protected fromĀ the seawaterĀ Ā so they do not degrade, at least not untill the rest of the zinc is gone.Ā Ā That way they do not fall out of the cap. IĀ then rectorseal the cap threadsĀ for th…
-
Flush Mounting w/ Custom Template
This topic has 6 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 3 years ago
January 22, 2021 at 8:45 am Thought some may find this handy when flush mounting. Working on a DC project and needed to get this panel mounted in an overlay board. There is very little reveal around the panel perimeter and a lot of in and outs as what needs to be cut in, not simply straight like mounting an MFD or the like. The four corner crew hole placements leave no room for error. The panel has a bit of weight to it so I wanted to be sure to leave as much plywood sur…
6 RepliesMarch 18, 2021 at 2:55 pm William Walter wrote: … maybe the hard part will be getting all the old wires to join up with the new panel or is it a match to the old panel.. Bill, to follow-up on your post… I labeled each circuit as I pulled apart the old breaker box. The circuits were terminated and fed to the new panel. The grounds went to a new common bus. Came out great and she’s up and running. A few punch list items this weekend and this electri…
-
Removing the Magnet / Screen Hex
This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 3 years ago
October 20, 2016 at 4:07 am The Hex nut that is part of the magnetic screen is a shallow hex and is usually TIGHT. Ā To get a more positive grip modify the socket on a bench grinder to remove the chamfer this way the socket walls make complete contact with the sides of the hex minimizing any damage or “rounding” of the hex. Ā My 220A reguired a 36mm socket. Ā A breaker bar is handy IF your engine “room” allows it. Ā Be mindful to keep the socket seated …
2 RepliesSeptember 17, 2020 at 8:08 am thanks for this post! getting ready to change oil in my 280-1A…couple questions… what do you clean screen with? is there torque spec when tightening hex back on on? just snug tight? also im not taking drain plug off..just extracting from dipstick. any real drawbacks? thanks.
-
Boating and Fishing COVID-19 Updates by State
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 3 years ago
May 6, 2020 at 11:10 am Very handy link on My Boat Life website. https://www.myboatlife.com/2020/04/boating-and-fishing-covid-19-updates-by-state.html
1 ReplyMay 8, 2020 at 9:26 am Thank you for this!
-
Wolverine Time in the Northeast
This topic has 12 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by 5 years ago
October 17, 2017 at 5:14 am This time of year the Wolverines pan heaters are especially appreciated: This mornings “conditions”: Salon – 49 deg F and 72% humidity Engine Room – 66 deg F and 43% humidity
12 RepliesNovember 23, 2018 at 3:58 am I will look again but as you know the dry QSM has a lot of āstuffā on either side. I am having the fuel cooler removed this winter for service and maybe with that out we can squeeze a Wolverine in behind it?
-
Marine Age…Age Is Just a Number
1
2
This topic has 21 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by 5 years ago
October 19, 2016 at 5:51 pm Don’t let marine age get the best of your engine room. Ā Here’s an example of a pair of 330B’s installed in 2002 and a genset from 2005. Ā That’s 15 seasons for the engines and 12 for the genny. Ā Dry engine rooms vents, Ā dry overhead environment or proper drainage of above decks, Wolverine pan heaters and periodic checks and spraying and wiping down with anti-corrosion products. Ā That’s some of the key ingredients whi…
21 RepliesNovember 2, 2018 at 1:10 pm Thanks. I have looked at those a lot, and will add them to my winter list.
-
Anchors, Windlasses & Rodes, Oh My!
This topic has 9 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by 6 years ago
August 12, 2017 at 6:41 am In an effort to not highjack Neil’s Bertram Restoration thread, I am starting this new topic Bill Fuller wrote: Rob, I am using a Lewmar windlass. I have it set up to be wired to a switch on the bridge and then a wireless system if you want to control from the bow. Just a small remote about the size of a key fob for a car. Actually I rarely use the remote. I raise and lower the anchor from the bridge. The remote is a Lewmar device. A f…
9 RepliesAugust 24, 2017 at 3:04 am Kevin, Yes “great minds think alike” because YOU told me to use the liquid electric tape! Getting back to the earlier posts on this thread – So last summer I bought foot switches from Defender but never got around to installing them because the more I thought about it I preferred a remote over the foot switches. Defender gave full credit on the foot switches 11 months later – a BIG thumbs up to Defender! And of course t…
-
Aftercoolers 16 Years Later
This topic has 1 reply, has 1 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
February 3, 2017 at 8:43 am Both engines (330B’s / CPL 1975) were new installs in the winter offseason of 2001/2002. Unfortunately this puts them into that timeframe (late 90’s – early 2000’s) when Cummins used the AL finned cores….not good.Ā But prior owner was a Seaboard customer and follower of Tony’s Tips and he believed in a very proactive maintenance approach.Ā This was a major factor back in 2014 when I bought the boat from him.Ā …
1 ReplyFebruary 13, 2017 at 7:35 am Put the aftercoolers back together yesterday. The pictures and captions should speak for themselves.. Will pressure check them one night this week.
-
Genset Heat Exchanger Maintenance
This topic has 8 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
February 3, 2017 at 7:58 am Pulled the heat exchanger off my Kohler 5EOZ genny yesterday and pressure tested it last night. I looped the seawater ports with one of the seawater hoses to close off the seawater side and I used the zinc port for pressure test. It takes a 1/4″ zinc so I used a 1/4″M to 1/8″F adapter bushing and then connected my 1/8″ fittings, gauge and schrader valve. I put plastic bag material over the coolant ports this way if I did …
8 RepliesFebruary 5, 2017 at 3:20 pm Phil, In my reply to your inquiries I should have also mentioned that I flushed with fresh water after the acid and again at the end..
-
Engine Mounted Circuit Breaker
This topic has 8 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
November 18, 2016 at 6:21 am In the Preheater post this heater diagram was uploaded by Tony.Ā I boxed in red what is listed as a “fuse”.Ā Tony or anyone, please correct me if I am wrong but that “fuse” is actually the engine mounted 10amp circuit breaker that I show in the attached picture.Ā For anyone not familiar with this breaker, if the connections to the base of it come loose you will shutdown, no different than shutting of the key switch.Ā Chec…
8 RepliesNovember 20, 2016 at 5:08 pm Oh for sure…. sorry I didn’t make it clearer. The blower gets it’s power elsewhere, I’m only looking for switching power for the relay as you now know. I’ve struggled to find a constant 12v with the engine running, and I want to avoid going anywhere near the fuel solenoid.
-
Heat Exchanger Flat End Cap Fix
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
October 19, 2016 at 9:25 pm Is your heat exchanger cap weeping at the outer perimeter? Ā Is it “flattened” from years of over-tightening? Ā It is important to put the “concave” back in the cap if it has been over tightened over time and flattened. Think of the cap as a big lock-washer as you “snug” it up. If itĀ“s too flat you will crush the center gum washer before putting any sealing pressure on the outer perimeter. Here’s the fix i…
2 RepliesNovember 13, 2016 at 5:50 am Yes Dan, works well.Ā Always a good thing when the guy “at-profit” tells you how to fix something rather then selling you a new one..
-
Heat Exchanger Zinc Length Issue
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
October 19, 2016 at 9:43 pm The later style Champ heat exchanger (offset inlet/outlet) appears to have a zinc length issue which is confirmed by some and negated by others. Ā Strange that the feedback differs but I can only speak to my findings. Ā My heat exchanger zinc DOES bottom out against the end casting. Ā I did not realize it on my first zinc change. Ā I do not go tight-tight on the zincs so no damage was done and it clearly had enough threads engaged to make a watertig…
1 ReplyNovember 12, 2016 at 8:23 pm Rob, I was changing out all my zincs today.Ā All, except one, had more than 50% life.Ā But, I changed them anyway, thinking they would not go another season.Ā The one exception was on the oil cooler.Ā All that came out was the cap.Ā Do you know if the remnants of that zinc would cause me any issue?Ā Water temps are normal.Ā Thanks.
-
6BTA Molded Hose: Gear Cooler >> Heat Exchanger