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Viewing 20 topics - 1 through 20 (of 21 total)
    • Cummins Marine Forum Topics
    • 6BTA 330 Alternator Output

      This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byLee Essay 1 month ago

      March 3, 2024 at 4:24 pm Looking into changing out the alternator on my 6BTA 330.Ā  No current problems but was looking to upgrade it out of preventative maintenance as I believe it is the original from 2000.Ā  I will keep the existing alternator on the boat as a backup since it still works.Ā  My question is the current alternator is the OEM 19SI 105 amps.Ā  I saw you have a 145amp option for a 19Si and wanted to know if there are any negatives or upgrades needed for going …

      Started by: Lee Essay in: Cummins Marine Engines


      3 Replies
      March 27, 2024 at 3:22 pm John,Ā Ā  A question for you.Ā  Your boat name looks familiar.Ā  Are you running a Nordic Tug?Ā Ā 

      Last Post by: Lee Essay posted: 1 month ago

    • Mystery Plastic Chips 6BTA

      This topic has 4 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 6 months ago

      October 15, 2023 at 8:05 am See the picture below.Ā  Found the larger plastic chips on the floor, in the front of my 6BTA 5.9 M1 a couple of years ago.Ā  Recently a bunch more smaller pieces showed up.Ā  They’re hard, black plastic, about 1/8″ thick.Ā  Can’t see anything on the front of engine.Ā  Are they possibly some dust/debris cover on the back of the belt tensioner or idler pulley?Ā  Engine powers my 2006 Nordic Tug 32, 2700+ hours.

      Started by: John in: Cummins Marine Engines


      4 Replies
      October 23, 2023 at 6:33 am Single engine boat–18 yrs old & 2700 hours.. Nothing to inspect———————–Replace it and the idler,Ā  and along a new genuine belt

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 6 months ago

    • Early B-series Alternator Upgrade

      This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byJohn 1 year ago

      March 27, 2023 at 5:48 am I have a single 6BT (built 10/86) on my Albin 36 trawler.Ā  I currently have a tired Delco 17si (I think) alternator that is rated at 105A that I am replacing.Ā  I would like to install an alternator that is rated in the 150A to 200A range so I can pull a little more power than just my starting battery bank.Ā  I find the alternator options and configurations somewhat overwhelming.Ā  I would like some suggestions on bracket and alternator configurati…

      Started by: browntw.79 in: Cummins Marine Engines


      2 Replies
      March 28, 2023 at 8:53 am If you know a good alternator rebuilder (or learn how, it’s not difficult), you can rebuild the original Delco 105 amp with a 160 amp stator.Ā  This alternator frame will accept up to a 200 amp stator.Ā  I’ve had my 18 year old alternator rebuilt with a 160 stator.Ā  Salt water environment is tough on the puny components and wires in these things.Ā  I’ve had a couple of subsequent fixes (diodes, brush wires, battery posts, etc).Ā  T…

      Last Post by: John posted: 1 year ago

    • Port Engine trouble cold starting

      This topic has 12 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byMark Tripi 1 year ago

      January 26, 2020 at 5:47 am I have a 1996 31′ Custom Carolina Express with twin Cummins 4BT 3.9 – 140 HP (both 1996 with 500 hours). I have had the boat a little under a year. A couple months ago, the port engine began having trouble cold starting (starboard engine starts on first turn of key). I would have to turn the key, 5-10 seconds each time, multiple times while having to rev the throttle to get her going, but it always starts (eventually) and once it is…

      Started by: Seth Christman in: Cummins Marine Engines


      12 Replies
      March 26, 2023 at 5:48 pm No, I measured voltage to the solenoid which it had, but none leaving to the heater. Bad solenoid.

      Last Post by: Mark Tripi posted: 1 year ago

    • Raw water pump replacement 1 2

      This topic has 36 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated byJimmyK 2 years ago

      May 3, 2021 at 1:52 pm OK, so I have had a couple SMX pumps sitting on my shelf for a while now waiting until I have the time to install. Well, it appears that one of my sherwood pumps is weeping saltwater so it is now time to make time rather than wait for the free time to do this. My question is about jacking the engine/removing the engine support bracket. I was under the impression that this had to be done because the pump will not clear the engine support bracke…

      Started by: JimmyK in: Cummins Marine Engines


      36 Replies
      May 21, 2021 at 2:14 pm pwrobert, thanks for chiming in. it is definitely nuts how this whole bracket/pump system was designed. with that said, I can tell you that for my port engine, removing the bracket & isolator mount was probably the easiest part of the whole job and regardless of whether or not you ‘can’ get the pump off without removing those things, I would remove them to make the rest of the job easier. I was a little intimidated by the idea…

      Last Post by: JimmyK posted: 2 years ago

    • 1st time seawater impeller change

      This topic has 7 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated byJulian 2 years ago

      April 6, 2017 at 10:49 am Ā Newbie on the site with a still new to us boat. Ā This weekend I plan to change the seawater impeller on our 6BTA5.9 M3. Ā I understand the basic concepts but would appreciate any suggestions. I noticed that the bore of the new impeller is threaded on one end. Ā “Assuming” that the installed impeller is the same will a bolt to match those threads work as a puller? Thanks in advance for all replies.

      Started by: Gene Prather in: General Discussion


      7 Replies
      May 5, 2021 at 7:08 pm Couple tips to add: If the keyway is at 12 o’clock when you pull the impeller, the key should stay in the pump housing and not fall out. You can turn the ignition key briefly and spin the pump until you get it facing the right direction. For pulling, snap-on part CJ83-3 (around $30) fits the threads and is an excellent puller. I used a hacksaw to cut the unthreaded 1/4″ section off right where the threads start so it can easily threa…

      Last Post by: Julian posted: 2 years ago

    • 160 deg thermostat 1 2

      This topic has 22 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byJohn 3 years ago

      February 2, 2020 at 9:35 am Hi guys simple question I hope… I have read Tony’s tips searched the forum etc but hoping for a straight forward answer Is there any reason NOT to install 160 degrees thermostats? Tony’s tips suggest it should be done as all Cummins latest are.. many have changed, and over here with 40degC days I can’t see any harm in a bit of headroom with engine temps. I also plan on adding redundant alarms too eventually getting rid …

      Started by: Stephen Oliver in: Cummins Marine Engines


      22 Replies
      June 8, 2020 at 6:58 am My average seasonal (April – November) fuel burn includes running 5 knot channel/no wake zones, cruising at about 10 knots, some higher runs for weather/sea conditions, drift fishing, running at high idle to top house batteries when anchored out on cloudy/rainy days (I have an 8 amp, 16.5 volt, 130 watt solar panel). For 15 years, my seasonal average is 2 GPH.

      Last Post by: John posted: 3 years ago

    • Muriatic acid flush

      This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byJohn 4 years ago

      March 31, 2020 at 2:23 pm Iā€™ve been Searching the forums and havenā€™t seen the exact flow recommended for flushing the raw water side with pool acid. Iā€™ve seen to use 10:1 ratio. Can someone comment on the Work flow? How long to let it run through the engine. How long to let it sit and so on. Thanks

      Started by: matt.schaefer86 in: General Discussion


      2 Replies
      April 5, 2020 at 9:36 am Matt, This is a recent response I made in a trawler forum, on a post asking about Barnacle Buster, and a cheaper solution for a flush. “I did a Barnacle Buster recirculating flush a few years ago. Works great and something you should do every once and a while. What I’ve been doing every year at the time I winterize the boat, is to soak the raw water system with a product called “Acid Magic”, about $20 a gallon. Acid Ma…

      Last Post by: John posted: 4 years ago

    • Air heater – how long to operate

      This topic has 13 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated byJohn 4 years ago

      November 26, 2019 at 9:56 pm Hi Tony, Iā€™m bypassing the ECM on my 6BTA 270 and wiring it with a switch and a light. My question is when and for how long should the air heater be engaged? Seems like pre-heating for too long could draw down cold batteries

      Started by: Paul Berkshire in: General Discussion


      13 Replies
      December 8, 2019 at 8:58 am After one of the contactors shorted out, I removed the ECM, all contactors, and wiring harness (that was fun). I could wire the heater grid in the JWAC, and control it with a switch, but I’ve not found the need for the heater. The boat is active from April to November in Rhode Island, and other than April and November, I’ve not had a problem with cold starts. I’m on a slip, plugged in, and the block immersion heater (Fleetgu…

      Last Post by: John posted: 4 years ago

    • Nothin like clean seawater components

      This topic has 10 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 4 years ago

      November 1, 2019 at 6:57 pm Pulled entire seawater side of the system and soaked the parts in barnacle buster and what a difference!!! Can’t wait to start assembly, prime and paint then install. I’m just really glad I took this stuff apart. Does anyone know the paint color or code for the Cummins white ?

      Started by: worldcatlemon in: Cummins Marine Engines


      10 Replies
      November 5, 2019 at 5:14 am worldcatlemon wrote: Rob, I removed the aftercooler core from the housing, soaked it in boiling water with Simple Green to remove any oil, then rinsed it, blew it dry with compressed air then soaked it in Barnacle buster to remove the calcium deposits. Clean as a whistle I do caution against soaking the entire core in any acid based solution, the air side is much more delicate and, as we know, the acid does no good there, it is for descaling of …

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 4 years ago

    • Need new alternator

      This topic has 6 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byJohn 4 years ago

      August 4, 2019 at 7:48 am Tony…rob .. One of my alternators is only pushing 11v so its going /gone bad .(tested with my meter )..need to know which one to order from sbmar. Here are some pics to help Thanks and let me know

      Started by: raymond gonzalez in: Cummins Marine Engines


      6 Replies
      August 8, 2019 at 6:22 am Have you considered rebuilding your alternator? Any good alternator/starter motor repair guy can do it. I had my Delco Remy 105 amp alternator rebuilt ($160) to include regulator, diode trio, battery post, and a 160 amp stator. This Delco frame can take a 200 amp stator. In 14 years I’ve had this alternator rebuilt twice. Both times where failures in components due to salt air environment. For the last couple of years, I pull the alt…

      Last Post by: John posted: 4 years ago

    • Quick Question on HX End Caps and Gaskets

      This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 5 years ago

      April 22, 2019 at 6:49 am Getting ready to replace a leaking end cap and gasket on 6BTA heat exchanger. I’m using the Seaboard caps and gaskets. My question is whether any material or not should be applied to edge of HX tube, gaskets, or cap. After an exhausting search on this site, came up with several responses. 1. Nothing, Seaboard gasket is soft enough. 2. A little bit of grease on gasket edges. 3. Rectoseal on gasket edges. 4. Light coat of RTV …

      Started by: John in: Cummins Marine Engines


      2 Replies
      April 22, 2019 at 8:21 am A little Rector Seal 5 is always good.

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 5 years ago

    • SMX water pump impeller change

      This topic has 14 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byJohn 5 years ago

      December 13, 2018 at 11:23 am I am attempting to replace the impeller from my SMX pump. I installed it 3 years ago and in order to remove the old Sherwood pump I had to remove the motor mount. As you can see the impeller can only come out 3/4 of the way due to the fuel hose that comes off of the fuel filter and goes to the injection pump? (Bosch). I need to remove this hose to finish and it appears it would be easiest to remove the banjo fitting at the pump. (second picture …

      Started by: Kevin Carlson in: Cummins Marine Engines


      14 Replies
      December 21, 2018 at 10:49 am Kevin, I see you had the issue with the impeller blades expanding inside the case as you push the impeller in. I’ve found that the easiest way to deal with that is to remove the top hose flange (hose to the fuel cooler). That exposes the interior of the case, and you can bend the blades as needed when you push in the impeller.

      Last Post by: John posted: 5 years ago

    • JWAC air heaters

      This topic has 6 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated byJohn 5 years ago

      November 13, 2018 at 8:51 am After a couple of days of real cold weather this past October in Rhode Island, with ice on the deck of the boat, tried to start engine (270 HP 6BTA JWAC CPL 2956) and noticed the voltage cycling for the grid heaters wasnā€™t happening. Engine very hard to start, and when it finally did, a lot of white smoke poured out of exhaust. Engine finally settled down and warmed up. OK. Something going on with the grid heater. Check grid solenoid and ECM…

      Started by: John in: Cummins Marine Engines


      6 Replies
      November 15, 2018 at 8:50 am Corey, I assume Tony’s “this may help” was a reference to Tony’s Tips. I was able to find a couple of articles on air heaters. More than likely he’s referencing the “5-minute Twist Timer or Momentary Switch” schematic and the picture of a contactor mounted to the JWAC. For now, I’m going to remove all the components and wiring from the ECM and contactors. I’ll mount a switch on my console t…

      Last Post by: John posted: 5 years ago

    • 6BTA Heat Exchanger End Cap

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byStephen Oliver 5 years ago

      October 21, 2018 at 7:50 am Getting ready to replace a slightly leaking end cap on HX. New cap and gasket purchased from Seaboard. After cleaning edge of HX tube, and a light sanding with 1000 grit wet/dry, should I spread a VERY THIN coat of some gasket sealer on the edge of the tube before installing gasket and cap? Some non-permanent sealer from Permatex or Loctite?

      Started by: John in: Cummins Marine Engines


      1 Reply
      October 21, 2018 at 8:06 am I was a bit more brutal and cleaned the end caps and the HX ends up with a wire wheel on a drill.. didnt seem to harm them, made sure they were cleaned and then assembled using SBMar gaskets which are really soft so seal all the imperfections well. No leaks and no sealant used. Steve

      Last Post by: Stephen Oliver posted: 5 years ago

    • 6BTA overheating 1 2

      This topic has 31 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 5 years ago

      March 2, 2018 at 9:23 am Good morning, I have an issue with one of my 5.9 6BTA 370 hp. motors. If I go to cruise speed, my port engine wants to overheat to about 200 degrees for 5 to 10 secs, then come right back to 185 to 190. The alarm starts to chirp but then goes off. No problem for the rest of the day. Here is what I have done to try and figure it out. 1-belched the system twice at full temp, a few bubbles not much . Also bleed it through the petcock. 2- changed …

      Started by: Robert Epsten in: Cummins Marine Engines


      31 Replies
      September 7, 2018 at 7:31 pm Based on your operation, no, I would stay with what you have.. Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 5 years ago

    • 6BTA heat exchanger SWEATING ?

      This topic has 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byBob Neill 5 years ago

      June 1, 2018 at 1:55 pm 6BTA 5.9 270 HP, JWAC in a boat I bought new in 2006. Home port is Rhode Island. Boat hauled and winterized for 5 months, in the water for 7 months. This is my 13th season, and engine has about 2,000 hours on it. My issue is with the heat exchanger. Over the years, Iā€™ve noticed a little trace of water coming down the rear, bottom hose of the HE. Tightened hose clamp over the years, but essentially ignored it. What little water rolled down…

      Started by: John in: Cummins Marine Engines


      5 Replies
      June 4, 2018 at 6:25 pm Glad to hear you resolved your issue, even if it is temporary. Keep us posted if anything changes.

      Last Post by: Bob Neill posted: 5 years ago

    • 6BTA Source of Antifreeze Leak?

      This topic has 8 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byJohn 6 years ago

      January 29, 2018 at 9:58 am Have a 6BTA 270hp engine in my 2006 Nordic Tug 32+. Boat is in Northern Rhode Island, winterized and on the hard for the Winter. We had below zero temperatures the first week of January, and a few more days through January. Three weeks ago, checking on the boat, I noticed a small amount of antifreeze, maybe a couple of tablespoons, under the Twin Disc transmission. Check around engine. Couldnā€™t see any obvious source of leak. Wiped area dry. Yes…

      Started by: John in: Cummins Marine Engines


      8 Replies
      April 2, 2018 at 8:10 am Update… after removing cap on expansion tank and removing a little antifreeze, no additional leaking. I’ll assume freeze/thaw cycle caused pressure and forced some antifreeze out of hoses somewhere. Once in the water, I’ll watch it. Will check hoses and clamps more often, and release expansion tank cap next Fall as we go into Winter storage.

      Last Post by: John posted: 6 years ago

    • Groco Hull Strainer

      This topic has 9 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byDan 6 years ago

      February 17, 2017 at 6:41 am I’m looking at replacing my engine intake strainers to the groco hinged door style due to the oyster growth that occurs inside my present intakes,keeping them clean is virtually impossible. Anyone have experience with the groco hinged door intakes or a similar brand? Also what would be the size best suited for my application? 250 HP 4bta’s Thanks Dan  

      Started by: Dan in: General Discussion


      9 Replies
      February 13, 2018 at 2:52 pm Tony, Sorry for the delay,appreciate the response and advice – thank you. Dan

      Last Post by: Dan posted: 6 years ago

    • clean up and paint engines

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byJohn 6 years ago

      May 5, 2017 at 2:00 pm I want to remove rust and flaking paint and repaint engines. Any thought on products to use? Had someone say to use POR 15. I see POR also has a cleaner to etch the metal.

      Started by: Richard Ash in: General Discussion


      1 Reply
      May 6, 2017 at 6:26 am Ā POR-15 is a little too aggressive for an engine paint. Ā Prep requires a degreasing cleaner, an etching solvent, then paint. Ā It requires POR’s thinner solvent, and any spills or overpaint is there forever. Ā Once you open a one pint can, and exposed to air, the paint dries up quickly (6 months). Ā Plus it’s expensive. Ā  I’d recommend plain old Rustoleum. Ā A 50/50 mix of gloss white and gloss almond is a perfect match for Cummins…

      Last Post by: John posted: 6 years ago

Viewing 20 topics - 1 through 20 (of 21 total)