Viewing 20 topics - 621 through 640 (of 682 total)
    • Cummins Marine Forum Topics
    • cooling sea water intake

      This topic has 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 6 years ago

      September 30, 2017 at 11:17 am It has come to the time to replace my raw water intake hose – trident 250 2000 2 inch hose, can anyone recommend a different type of hose that is a little easier to work with that is safe? source etc? thanks

      Started by: Michael Black


      5 Replies
      October 4, 2017 at 8:58 am Bill thanks for that – nothing beats “real” feedback on a product..

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 6 years ago

    • Max power curve question

      This topic has 17 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated byBill Fuller 6 years ago

      September 27, 2017 at 7:34 am I see statements that claim that unless you can reach the rated power RPM that you are over propped at any RPM. If so then I don’t understand the max power curve because that curve would seem to be the max power the engine can produce at every RPM. If I propped a 400 HP rated engine to the 200 HP rpm point and made that the max operating RPM wouldn’t I have in effect simply de rateted the engine to 200 HP and would be within safe o…

      Started by: BruM


      17 Replies
      October 1, 2017 at 10:23 am BruM One other thing for you to contemplate. The max HP curve is generated making measurements from right to left, not left to right. The first measurement is made at 3065 RPM for our QSB-230 example. Bill F.

      Last Post by: Bill Fuller posted: 6 years ago

    • Dripless seals dripping again

      This topic has 16 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated byJoe Monaco 6 years ago

      September 23, 2017 at 8:00 pm Hi all, I have a 2002 31 foot express sport fisher with stock installed Chatfield Blue water marine dripless seals. When I had bough the boat 2 years ago theseals were leaking so I had the boat hauled and seals replaced. They are leaking again after about 300 hrs. Both these seals had also leaked in the boats past, the generator sits sideways between the 2 shafts, the electrical end of the generator had to be replaced and the water pump Pullys …

      Started by: Joe Monaco


      16 Replies
      October 1, 2017 at 8:46 am Here’s what I’ve learned about shaft seals. Traditional are the safest but will still drip a little. Tides are good….but, can fail if the cooling water flow is interrupted, it can cause the lip seal to seize to the shaft causing flooding and other damage. Also Lip seals eventually wear out but a spare can be left of the shaft. PSS are good…but, the hose can fail/tear causing flooding. PSS recommends replacing the hose …

      Last Post by: Joe Monaco posted: 6 years ago

    • Diesel additives winter lay up

      This topic has 4 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byBarry 6 years ago

      September 7, 2017 at 8:09 am I have had a diesel boat for a few years (twin 2004 370B), did a lot of research boat diesel.com, prior to this forum. I have found many opinions on diesel additives, I remember reading Tony’s opinion on additives, No additives if your source of diesel fuel is good. I have stuck to that summer and winter lay up. I don’t use my boat in the winter (upper Chesapeake MD.) and is is on the hard. Is it recommended to put an additive in …

      Started by: jdidonato333


      4 Replies
      September 21, 2017 at 7:20 pm Subscribed for the answer. Meridian 391 with twin qsb 6.7 about ready for a wet PNW winter

      Last Post by: Barry posted: 6 years ago

    • Leaking Gasket at Turbo to Exhaust Manifold on 6CTA8.3

      This topic has 14 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 6 years ago

      September 17, 2017 at 1:53 pm Hello, I am new to the site… I recently identified a coolant leak at the site were the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket is on the starboard engine on a cummins 6CTA 8.3M. The leak appeared to only occur when the engine was operated above 2000 rpm. The gasket on the port engine was not leaking. The engines have about 1660 hours on them. I employed a cummins mechanic to change the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket on the starboard engine t…

      Started by: Terry


      14 Replies
      September 21, 2017 at 3:39 am Thanks for the follow-up. 99.9% you will be just fine. Just thought the mechanic would have gone a tad overboard on his “redo”….. Let us know how it goes when you give the service manager a copy of Tony’s Tips – just make sure they’ve made up your invoice already!

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 6 years ago

    • 210HP 6BT cooland hose size

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 6 years ago

      August 27, 2017 at 12:21 am Hello, is the heat exchanger coolant hose size on 210 HP 6BT the same size as the one you advertise for the 330/370 hp #11 (HS-3549) Heat Exchanger Coolant Hose 2.375 in. ?? Cheers Ian

      Started by: Ian


      1 Reply
      August 28, 2017 at 5:35 am The larger bottom hose is a tight 2 3/8″ ID ( or sloppy 2.5″ ID ) on all of the “B” heat exchangers. Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 6 years ago

    • Anchors, Windlasses & Rodes, Oh My!

      This topic has 9 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 6 years ago

      August 12, 2017 at 6:41 am In an effort to not highjack Neil’s Bertram Restoration thread, I am starting this new topic Bill Fuller wrote: Rob, I am using a Lewmar windlass. I have it set up to be wired to a switch on the bridge and then a wireless system if you want to control from the bow. Just a small remote about the size of a key fob for a car. Actually I rarely use the remote. I raise and lower the anchor from the bridge. The remote is a Lewmar device. A f…

      Started by: Rob Schepis


      9 Replies
      August 24, 2017 at 3:04 am Kevin, Yes “great minds think alike” because YOU told me to use the liquid electric tape! Getting back to the earlier posts on this thread – So last summer I bought foot switches from Defender but never got around to installing them because the more I thought about it I preferred a remote over the foot switches. Defender gave full credit on the foot switches 11 months later – a BIG thumbs up to Defender! And of course t…

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 6 years ago

    • Question For Tony

      This topic has 5 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 6 years ago

      August 14, 2017 at 7:32 pm Hi Tony, For those not familiar, my question is for a Yanmar 4LHA-STE. In the shut off circuit, there is a relay, which when the stop button is pushed, directs power to the fuel shut-off solenoid. The relay on my port motor has apparently failed. Solenoid is fine. My question is: is this relay really necessary? And if so why. I think I know but would like to hear other opinions. I would actually like to remove it from the circuit. Thanks Bill

      Started by: Bill Fuller


      5 Replies
      August 19, 2017 at 8:07 pm Bill, Like usual, when you finally “got into it” , you sorted it out as to what needs to be done, but even more important, you sorted out how it actually was supposed to work…………..That’s the key as to any system on on boat, UNDERSTANDING IT. And yes, kinda crazy how Yanmar set up there “relays”–Just hanging there on a pull tie or something.. Anyway, thanks for this and hopefully…

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 6 years ago

    • Primary Fuel Filter Recommendation

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 6 years ago

      July 17, 2017 at 4:16 am Tony / Corey… QSM-11 – 580.. PRimary racor fuel filter.. what do you recommend.. 10, 20,30 Micron? the secondary are the Cummins – Fleetguard 1001.. Never had a fuel issue in our area, we have the vacuum guages and little to no restriction on primary. FYI Thanks

      Started by: Glenn Niccolai


      1 Reply
      July 19, 2017 at 4:52 am Per the book, a 10 micron with a WIF is used before the on-engine fuel filter. You would only want to run that 30 as a mud filter if there were another finer micron ahead of it before the on-engine filter to make up a multi stage system.

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 6 years ago

    • Engine running cooler?

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 6 years ago

      July 9, 2017 at 8:30 am I have a 6BTA 370. The water temp gauge reads about 10 degrees cooler than it used to. Unfortunately, I don’t know exactly when this started. I removed the engine last year and unplugged the sending unit at that time. I keep current on all maintenance and there has been so significant change in the cooling system. What is the best way to check the gauge for accuracy?

      Started by: Tim Klassen


      1 Reply
      July 9, 2017 at 1:06 pm Single engine I presume.., so a gauge/sender swip-swap is not an option. Then simplest thing is to use an infrared temperature gun and shoot the head right next to the factory sender. It should be a few degrees less than actual coolant temperature.

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 6 years ago

    • After Cooler – Leak

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byGlenn Niccolai 6 years ago

      July 5, 2017 at 3:44 am Tony / Corey, (See Pic Attached) I had had the after coolers services just last year, maybe 150 hours on them. On both engines, I have developed a leak on the raw water pipe fitting. Last year, mechanic who performed service came back, , changed the O’Ring on starboard and all is good. He noted, from time to time this happens. This weekend, the port motor developed same small leak, at cruise the raw water pipe leaks… its salt water…

      Started by: Glenn Niccolai


      2 Replies
      July 6, 2017 at 5:17 am Tony, thank you for replying.. I will try

      Last Post by: Glenn Niccolai posted: 6 years ago

    • Engine alignment

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byLawrence Downs 6 years ago

      July 3, 2017 at 4:49 am I am getting ready to set my rear engine brackets to the stringers. I reviewed your article on floating them in. Very clever to keep the brackets parallel. Question, what material is the paste like substance in the pictures? I was going to use clamps, but the paste looks like a good idea. Also does anyone know of a jig for a b series (or how to build one) for a trial alignment?

      Started by: Lawrence Downs


      2 Replies
      July 6, 2017 at 3:54 am Thank you, very helpful.

      Last Post by: Lawrence Downs posted: 6 years ago

    • seafirst cylinder

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byBill Fuller 6 years ago

      July 1, 2017 at 4:46 pm This message is for Tony, My SeaFirst ram cylinder model HC-125B-7 is leaking. Is there a rebuild kit available for this or do you know what seals and/or “O” rings are required to get it back in operation. Thanks Bill

      Started by: Bill Fuller


      2 Replies
      July 2, 2017 at 7:20 am Thanks Tony On the way Bill

      Last Post by: Bill Fuller posted: 6 years ago

    • NEED URGENT HELP

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byCorey Schmidt 6 years ago

      June 22, 2017 at 2:44 am Hello everyone, i need urgent help. Im searching specifications for a specific cummins thermostat to see if it fits my engine The thermostat i need to check is: Cummins 5292748 I need to know about the flange diameter, base diameter, and the distance between the base and the flange (height). I need an 165ĀŗF thermostat that fits an isb 6.7 cummins engine Can anyone help me?

      Started by: Alexgv


      1 Reply
      June 22, 2017 at 8:50 am Per the book based on that serial number, the engine uses Part # 3784823 (thermostat kit) .. Earlier versions were #4929642 & 5292708

      Last Post by: Corey Schmidt posted: 6 years ago

    • Mechanic referral needed please – South Florida

      This topic has 7 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byVincent Hubis 6 years ago

      June 20, 2017 at 12:25 pm Hello SeaBoard Marine and fellow diesel owners. I am in desperate need of a knowledgeable mechanic to bring my girl back to life. I have owned her about 4 years after purchasing from an auction, so I had no maintenance history to work off. I have done a number of things myself including filters, impellers and a raw water pump on one side. I am an SBmar customer, using the impeller kits and air filters. I used the vessel frequently during that t…

      Started by: Vincent Hubis


      7 Replies
      June 22, 2017 at 6:30 am Hey Rob, thanks for the contact. I’ll reach out to see if he knows anyone on my side of FL. As far as restarting, no I could only verify there was fuel getting to the cylinders. She would just crank at that point.

      Last Post by: Vincent Hubis posted: 6 years ago

    • Qsb380 2005-2006 Sea Ray Sundancer

      This topic has 5 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated byraymond gonzalez 6 years ago

      May 29, 2017 at 8:10 am I am between buying either a 2005 or a 2006 sundancer, both with Qsb 380s I was told they didn’t have the quiet idling common rail fuel system until 2006. Is there any difference in these engines? I can’t find anything to support this claim This would be my first diesel boat

      Started by: William Milanese


      5 Replies
      June 15, 2017 at 10:30 am I just bought a 2007 formula 40pc with dual qsb’s and so far so good … they are a dream to run and i couldn’t be happier so far .

      Last Post by: raymond gonzalez posted: 6 years ago

    • trouble viewing replies

      This topic has 5 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byGary Marshall 6 years ago

      June 7, 2017 at 5:43 pm When I reply to a post, the font is very light when I am typing and so I type my response in Word and then copy and paste it in here. However, often the Submit button disappears. Anyone else with this issue? I am primarily using Chrome, but had to switch to Internet Explorer in order to still see the submit button. Anyone else with this issue?

      Started by: Gary Marshall


      5 Replies
      June 8, 2017 at 9:26 am Good to know! Thanks!

      Last Post by: Gary Marshall posted: 6 years ago

    • Hydraulic steering helm pump

      This topic has 6 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byDavid Marchand 6 years ago

      May 22, 2017 at 6:41 am A buddy just bought an old Mainship 34 flybridge trawler. The lower helm looks original and steers ok, about 6 turns lock to lock. The upper helm looks like it was replaced and steers at 10+ turns lock to locks which is unacceptable. It is a Seastar 1.7 cu in per rev pump. The lower helm pump has no identification.. The ram cylinder is about 1.5″ id x 9″ stroke giving it a volume of about 16 cu inches. Using Tony’s hydraulic si…

      Started by: David Marchand


      6 Replies
      May 24, 2017 at 9:59 am Tony: I helped the owner move the boat 350 miles from Md to Ny and now someone else is helping him move it up the Erie and Oswego Canals. I will contact him to message me some pics. But the upper helm, the one with the excessive locks and some light binding, is definitely a Seastar 1.7 cu ft pump. The ram is a two hose pass throgh rod type with no labeling. David

      Last Post by: David Marchand posted: 6 years ago

    • Zeus Pod – Hydraulic Filter Assembly

      This topic has 4 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 6 years ago

      April 25, 2017 at 11:07 am Perhaps someone in the forum has done this or can offer general guidance on the install. I’m replacing a high pressure hydraulic filter assembly which is currently weeping a small amount of hydraulic fluid. Ā Appears to be coming from the housing threads (the filter assembly comes in two halves, an upper and lower). Ā Couple of questions since I cannot locate a service manual for this. (1) Is is okay to use a thread sealant like Rector seal …

      Started by: Tom Bartolomei


      4 Replies
      May 22, 2017 at 7:33 pm The high pressure part of a hyd system can be tough to deal with in some cases when it come to very small leaks / sweats, etc.. .. We always use some type of sealant or lube, but it’s far from “one type fits all”. Some types of fittings need anaerobics, some need special pipe dope, and other just need some light grease. When o-rings are involved, it usually just comes do to a light coating of grease as the “O-Ring”…

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 6 years ago

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