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- Cummins Marine Forum Topics
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Tach adjustment
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 6 years ago
May 19, 2017 at 7:38 am I just installed 2 450c reman engines and found the tach on the port side is 150 to 200 off from the starboard side, . The difference on the photo tach is about 5 to 8 rpms. I saw some dip switchs on the back of the tach but didn’t try to change any. The gauge panels came with the engines. The starboard engine is close to the photo tach. Thanks Tony
2 RepliesMay 20, 2017 at 8:16 am Thanks Tony
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any update about your repower bat?
This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 6 years ago
March 6, 2017 at 5:18 am Hi, I often look at your repower report which i find really great but i would like to know if you have any news about these boats, engine hours, problems or not, such as Bossea the Trojan or seabea the Hatteras or the working boat like sunstar which was really something in removing 2 Zdrive and putting one shaft! thank you
2 RepliesMay 14, 2017 at 8:04 am I still own my 28 Bertram (Audax)Ā 17 years later and 5100 hours.Ā Noelle Mae and Got bait are also still owned by Bruce and Pat respectively.Ā I can not speak for any of the other boats.
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Maintenance
This topic has 12 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 6 years ago
April 29, 2017 at 4:54 am New to diesels so looking for advise.posting some pics of turbo and mixing elbow. 1) Does the tubo look like its time for tubo wash? 2) Are their other areas of the turbo I should be looking at? 3) Any comments on the mixing elbow? Yanmar 4lh, 600 hrs. Thanks, Brian
12 RepliesMay 12, 2017 at 9:54 am Hello Brian, It looks like you are 100% on top of everything.Ā Your maintenance schedule is almost identical to mine and is what I would recommend.Ā The aluminum exhaust manifold is one of the few weak points in these engines and is very sensitive to coolant.Ā Consequently, for the cost involved, I simply change my coolant every year.Ā That’s 17 years now. You might want to adjust the valves.Ā Yanmars calls for every 600 hours.Ā Especially…
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Low hour, older boat
This topic has 6 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 6 years ago
May 9, 2017 at 6:37 pm Newbie here, Ā really appreciate all the info here and Tony’s tips. Looking at 2009 with twin Cummins QSC 8.3, 370 hours. Ā Problem is I would be the fourth owner, no maintenance records are available, and no one has done coolant service, ever, according to the broker. Ā Also makes me wonder what else they didn’t do…. Haven’t spent the money on surveys yet because I’m not sure it will provide important info about the a…
6 RepliesMay 10, 2017 at 5:59 pm All great points, thank you Phil.
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clean up and paint engines
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 6 years ago
May 5, 2017 at 2:00 pm I want to remove rust and flaking paint and repaint engines. Any thought on products to use? Had someone say to use POR 15. I see POR also has a cleaner to etch the metal.
1 ReplyMay 6, 2017 at 6:26 am Ā POR-15 is a little too aggressive for an engine paint. Ā Prep requires a degreasing cleaner, an etching solvent, then paint. Ā It requires POR’s thinner solvent, and any spills or overpaint is there forever. Ā Once you open a one pint can, and exposed to air, the paint dries up quickly (6 months). Ā Plus it’s expensive. Ā I’d recommend plain old Rustoleum. Ā A 50/50 mix of gloss white and gloss almond is a perfect match for Cummins…
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Fuel leaking from the rear of the head
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
May 2, 2017 at 6:39 pm I have a 2005 sea ray sedan bridge with twin Cummins 6CTA and last year I had to replace the head due to dropping a valve seat, boat runs great now but I see alittle fuel leaking by the back of the cylinder head and was wondering if anybody had any ideas. I have looked all around and can’t seem to find any leaks. I have attached a picture of the back of the cylinder head. Thanks Joe
1 ReplyMay 2, 2017 at 6:42 pm I am only looking at this on my phone, but is that not coolant?
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Yanmar LP 315 won't shut down when warm
This topic has 6 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
April 25, 2017 at 5:05 am 6 LP 315 Yanmar, twins, when engines are cold will start and shutdown right away, when boat is run for a while they will stay running even after the key is turned off, rather random in nature, but lasting longer over time, could be anything from 3 minutes to 15 minutes and either port of starboard. Ā Turned power to engines off and no affect also. Ā Are the stop solenoids easy to get too – to replace?Ā
6 RepliesApril 26, 2017 at 9:12 am Thanks Rob, I agree and really appreciate your originally posted photo’s, big help, now I can dig in and see what’s up, will post my findings.Ā
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Changing racor filter
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
April 18, 2017 at 5:15 pm Hello all, was wondering how often to change out racor fuel filter.I have a dual bowl filter system and only used one side of it last season.The filter on the other side was not used.Is their any reason for changing the one that was not used? Is their a time limet a filter element should sit Ā in the racor befor it gets changed…yearly?Ā Thanks for any replies, Brian
1 ReplyApril 18, 2017 at 5:34 pm No time change out.. ……………… Tony
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Aftercooler Service and test
This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
April 3, 2017 at 5:15 am I have 2002 370 BTA’s and have not personally serviced them before. I’ve read many of your articles (thank you) and removed aftercoolers, then cores and tried to clean them. Ā I had some trouble removing the starboard one. Ā I used kroil, a wood block and rubber mallet, which resulted in some deformation of the top of a few tubes. The port one was relatively easy to remove, but as you can see was somewhat damaged at the ends from previ…
3 RepliesApril 4, 2017 at 2:03 pm Sounds like you got it. Ā The flats on the housing where the o-ring gets crushed by the cap is a sealing surface as is the sidewall of the core end. Ā And the bevel inside the cap as well, clean that real good with a 3m pad or such.
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New Forum Format
This topic has 7 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
March 30, 2017 at 3:39 pm You’ll notice now that the created topic will always stay on top of the topic page separate of the replies. In addition to that, the replies have been re-organized so that the newest reply is at the top of the page so they are in effect, “reversed” from how they were before. I have heard a few requests for this feature and so I implemented it… Let me know if this works better for everyone. Feedback is always appreciated.
7 RepliesApril 1, 2017 at 6:41 pm elaine, Go onto one of the six Forum Category pages and scroll down and you will find the windows to create a new topic.
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How Brown is Too Brown
This topic has 8 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
March 31, 2017 at 6:13 am Hello, I am new to this wonderful website and am close to making an offer to buy my first diesel powered boat. I currently have two boats on my short list, both are Sea Ray 2005 420 Sedan Bridge. One has the 450C, 833 hours, and the other has the 480C-E with 630 hours. Ā Both have reportedly spent most of their lives in fresh water. The 450C has been in brackish water for the last 18 months. I am leaning toward the 480C-E but have a concern that …
8 RepliesApril 1, 2017 at 6:34 am Thanks Dave, I have been going back and forth between the 450C and 480CE. Now I am pretty certain I will settle on the 450C for all of the reasons you have stated as well as the information above. Thanks.
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SMX Pump Wear Plate
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
March 28, 2017 at 6:46 pm I’ve got a couple of left over wear plates from when I used sherwood pumps. Ā Ā Are these wear plates usable on the SMX or should I ebay ’em?
1 ReplyMarch 29, 2017 at 7:00 am No they are not.. Plus, the wear pate in the SMX pump will basically NEVER wear out.. Tony
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Propeller reinstall
This topic has 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
January 23, 2017 at 10:43 am had my props reconditioned and re pitched.when I got them back I noticed a pattern of holes in props .my prop guy said it was from the mold and props we’re getting a little thin and I should start thinking of new props.then after reinstalling the props I noticed more space between the strut and prop on port side.at first I thought I didn’t have it on all the way but after putting them on without the keyway it was indeed .seems the po…
4 RepliesMarch 23, 2017 at 7:35 pm Check you coupler, your shaft could be slipping out of the coupler.Ā Maybe the set screw bolt is not tight enough.Ā I had this problem before.
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prop instalation
This topic has 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
March 8, 2017 at 3:46 pm Is this idea too far out of the box? I have been using epoxy on end nut for some years as suggested by T.A. . So why not after proper fitting of key and prop use epoxy on the whole works?Ā Would that not help with crevice corrosion and potential movement. Would the wet epoxy also serve as lube to tighten down the prop?Ā With a good fit a torch is often needed for removealĀ and should also work with epoxy?
4 RepliesMarch 11, 2017 at 11:00 am Rob’s method will 100% stop corrosion between the prop and shaft as if fills all the imperfections with Ā “good stuff” for lack of a better way to describe it.. Only the second nut with epoxy.. Cotter key is optional as all it does is wind up monofilament line.. If you have a castellated nut and install it right, then it offers protection. Tony
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SmartCraft 5000 Question
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
March 3, 2017 at 8:15 pm Hi, I changed my current SmartCraft 5000 (2003 version 1.0) to a NOS 2006, version 3.3. After replacing the display I noticed it offered more information like manifold temp, load, gear temp. My question is this: I didn’t have this information on my old SmartCraft so apparently I don’t have the sensors, can I install /adapt the sensors and wiring to the new SmartCraft display or am I stuck with the information I had on the old display…
2 RepliesMarch 9, 2017 at 6:11 am Sorry Corey, I was incorrect on the model, the correct model is “SC5000” Ā I’ll get some pics when I’m on the boat on the 23rd. of March. Thank you, Tom Mann
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Sea Water Pumps
This topic has 4 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
December 5, 2016 at 6:48 am Recently I have installed two brand new raw water pumps. Is it common practice to remove the impellers from the seawater pump housing during winter storage, or should they remain installed. I had been removing the impellers in my old pumps, and was wondering if I should continue.
4 RepliesMarch 7, 2017 at 2:11 pm The idea of removing the impeller over the winter has to do with the rubber possibly taking a “set”.Ā The part of the impeller that sits on the cam (Sherwood type) has the vanes seriously in a bent down position.Ā Sitting for a long period of time like that could lead to premature failure. If I recall correctly Sherwood even mentions this in their manual.Ā
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Damper
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
March 3, 2017 at 8:04 pm i dont need one but curious if anyone knows what damper plate assembly Cabo Yachts used between the QSC8.3-540 and ZF285A? AND is that the most current best damper if one were to be replaced… hopefully this is just nostalgic but if I ever changed engine mounts I’d consider a new damper at the same time….
1 ReplyMarch 4, 2017 at 1:34 pm These are pics of the only one I have see used for this gear & Engine combo..
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high temp exhaust wrap
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
March 3, 2017 at 8:57 am I purchased from SBMAR a roll of the high temp wrap and was wondering if it was ok the spray the wrap after installation with a high temp silicon spray coating to keep the wrap in place and also seal it. Also do you recommend soaking the wrap with water before the installation. Thank you Tony
1 ReplyMarch 4, 2017 at 6:53 am I would say yes on both accounts. Start from the turbo end and work your way down the pipe, nice and tight. Haven’t used the stuff since back in the hot rodding days on small block Chevy headers, that was tedious, your riser(s) will be easier to work with. Keep us updated with good pics..
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Hello from Belgium
This topic has 8 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
February 28, 2017 at 3:11 am Hi, i have just registred and i would like to say hello to everyone from Belgium! I make boating since i am a kid with my father and we bought a bayliner 3988 new in 97 with cummins. And i often travel on the web to find informations on bayliner and cummins so i found tony’s site and loved the repower project and the job they do! In Europe cummins is not well known compared to US because here Volvo is almost always the first engineĀ choice&…
8 RepliesMarch 1, 2017 at 11:54 am thanks for the history, i cross fingers with my hurth and hope repitch propellers will give some fresh air to the gear… i ‘d like to share with you my story of my baylinerS, in fact one 3988 of 1995 and one 3988 of 1997… the first one was reshipped to US and a brand new one was given back to us… why? in fact, the first one was hino powered but that’s not the problem, when the ship was lifted out dor winter ,the mech…
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brazing a ell to heat exchanger outlet
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 7 years ago
February 27, 2017 at 6:11 am Is it ok to braze a bronze ell to the outlet of the heat exchanger on a 450c to change the direction of the hose on a repower, or would it be better to use a silicone ell with hose clamps? Thank you Tony
1 ReplyFebruary 27, 2017 at 3:59 pm Here are some examples… Use silicon bronze tig welding on the the cast outlets. We also have saddles you can soft solder (95-5) Ā after proper fitting and cleaning… see the pictures
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Tach adjustment
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