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- Cummins Marine Forum Topics
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Off-engine fuel filter seals
This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 3 months ago
January 2, 2024 at 12:41 pm I just replaced my old Racor turbines with the double-double filter setups… HUGE improvement!!!Ā One question I have though is why does the FS19513 include an “inner” o-ring seal and the FS1000 does not.Ā I bought two setups, so 2 of each filter was included and the “inner” seal was only provided with the FS19513 on both counts.Ā What is the purpose of the seal and why isn’t it included with both filters?
3 RepliesJanuary 4, 2024 at 8:54 am This is called a “spud gasket” and yes some filters use it (FS1000/1001) for the threaded insert and others don’t (FS19513/5013).Ā I notice that the spud gasket is included with filters that are rated at 10 mic and less but don’t understand why they are designed that way.Ā Years back trying to dig a little deeper into it I contacted Cummins Filtration for an explanation.Ā What I received back made zero sense as to both gr…
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Checking Fleetguard fuel filter for water
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 6 months ago
October 19, 2023 at 2:25 pm When releasing fuel from the Fleetguard fuel filters to check for water in the diesel, do you also have to re-prime the filter?Ā This question pertains to both the on engine as well as off engine filters.
1 ReplyOctober 23, 2023 at 6:37 am Typically you do not have to reprime and to drain them as you are only talking a teaspoon or so. Drain into a clean coffee cup or? What 1st comes out is the water as it sits on the bottom..Ā Sometimes you have to tap the filter few times to get it to come out.
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Old diesel in tank
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 6 months ago
October 12, 2023 at 8:24 am For various reasons I haven’t been able to use my boat much over the last couple of years, so the diesel I have in the tanks is about 2.5 years old.Ā Each 200 gal tank is 1/2 full.Ā I took the boat out a couple times recently and it fouled brand new 30 micron racor filters after burning just 50 gallons (meaning the vac gauge went from 2″ to 10″ on both).Ā The filters were also noticeably dark/dirty.Ā Ā My plan is to try and run …
2 RepliesOctober 13, 2023 at 5:51 am Mike, you should consider adding a bulk separator ahead of your Racor.Ā Such as this FS19513.Ā That will get you through the current mess much easier and also be a valuable addition to your filtrationĀ for the future.Ā Your Racor will thank you. #3 Premium Extra Duty Bulk Separator Kit (FS19513)
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How to change Racor filter
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 6 months ago
October 6, 2023 at 11:22 am When I change the Racor filter only and some fuel is lost in the process (no longer filled to the top of the Racor), do I need to refill it to the top?Ā I have installed the squeeze bulb priming kit between the last chance filter and the Racor, but I’m guessing just squeezing the bulb to prime the Racor in this case won’t work since the last chance filter will remain in place (nowhere for the fuel/air to go to when squeezing the bulb…
1 ReplyOctober 6, 2023 at 3:02 pm I have always refilled mine, but I do not believe a small gap will hurt. I think it will fill itself over time. The simple solution is to fill with the squeeze bulb before you put the top back on the Racor. Carefully, of course.
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External alternator regulator
This topic has 11 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by 7 months ago
February 10, 2021 at 10:33 am Is it advisable to have an external regulator on the alternator (19SI) to deliver a much better charge profile for my AGMs? I’ve read quite a bit of literature from different manufacturers, and the Balmar MC-614 looks like a good unit, but some objective advise would be welcome at this point. It’s also unclear to me how complicated it would be to hook up the MC-614 to my 19SI alternators. My setup is twin 6BTAs w/ 19SI alternators …
11 RepliesSeptember 14, 2023 at 6:41 pm I have the stock Delco 22SI/160A alternator on my 2018 QSB. I have read the above comments and a few articles on the subject of voltage regulation for better battery charging. My current use is 4 to 5 hour runs, a 10 hour periodically. That may change in a year if we do the ICW/Loop so much more frequent and longer runs. I have 960Amp hr AGMs. A few questions : 1. Would it make sense to get a smart alternator for my future use case?Ā 2. Externa…
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Twin 6BTA – uneven fuel burn
This topic has 8 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago
September 13, 2021 at 9:22 am I have twin 330 6BTAs with one engine consistently burning about 20% more fuel. I verified the accuracy of the tachs and even have a tach synchronizer to make sure I’m running them at equal rpms. I’ve had this problem since I bought the boat 4 years ago and since then I’ve repitched the props to make 2850 WOT, replaced the airseps, adjusted valve lash, replaced the cutlas bearings, kept running gear and bottom clean, serviced…
8 RepliesFebruary 19, 2023 at 9:00 am Have you considered doing an oil analysis? It is possible a comparison of the results between the two engines might give you a hint of what to check first. Standard things you might find are parts wearing more quickly on one motor versus the other, which would lead to an investigation of loading. Less obvious, you will be able to tell if one of the motors is getting significantly over-fueled, which then leads to leaky injectors, as suggested, or…
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Fuel PSI?
This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago
January 12, 2023 at 3:29 pm I’m doing some low power troubleshooting and was wondering what the fuel pressure should be at the on-engine filter (6bta)?Ā I’m going to install a gauge there and it would be helpful to know how to go about this (e.g., what is the target PSI and what RPMs should I be measuring)?
3 RepliesJanuary 20, 2023 at 10:06 am Ok, thank you – I’ll check this next.Ā Ā Also, what do you think about the small bubbles in the squeeze bulb hose line?Ā Seems to me that the Racor introducing air would be unlikely, so I’m guessing these bubbles are not the likely culprit…
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Wrong fuel filter – now won’t reach WOT
This topic has 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago
October 12, 2022 at 10:45 am I made the mistake of letting a friend change my on-engine fuel filters last spring as I was short on time.Ā He incorrectly used the FS1280 which is 20 micron vs the required 10 or less.Ā Well, I’ve recently been having an issue where I only reach about 2500 WOT and notice a bit of stumbling.Ā The running gear is clean and there don’t appear to be any leaks in the system.Ā I changed the filters to the correct ones and am having the s…
5 RepliesOctober 16, 2022 at 8:19 am I doubt the fuel at 1.5 yrs is the cause of the problem especially when you see no water in the filters.Ā Ā How about dirt though?Ā Ā Have you examined the pleated element for dirt and clogging?Ā Ā Have you taken a fuel sample and sent it to a lab as a cross check?. Yes, I use labs.Ā I started at work 30 or more years ago and have carried on with my own boat and on two occasionsĀ the testing, I believe, saved my bacon warning me of an impending p…
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Cruise RPMs
This topic has 7 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by 1 year ago
June 5, 2019 at 3:54 pm I just had my 6BTA props repitched, and now I’m happy to say I’ve gone from 2800 WOT to 2950 WOT. So now what should I shoot for in terms of cruise RPM? I come up on a good plane around 2200 or so.
7 RepliesAugust 29, 2022 at 5:55 pm I have a 315 6bta with the denso pump. I am propped to make 2950 easy. Assuming I am also safe to cruise 2100-2400 (the range Tony cites above), aside from the added fuel burn modestly decreasing engine life, is there any other concern cruising at the higher end of this range (2350-2400)? Iāve historically stuck to 2100-2200ish. I have the 160 stat and SMX redundant temp alarmed for 190 and the water flow alarm at my mixer. I donāt have an EGT …
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Barring tool location 6BTA
This topic has 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 2 years ago
December 29, 2021 at 1:34 pm I need to remove my harmonic balancer as part of the process for replacing the crankshaft seal, but my understanding is that I need to lock up the engine with a barring tool to torque off those bolts.Ā Where in the heck is the port to insert the barring tool?Ā Ā
2 RepliesDecember 30, 2021 at 6:41 am It’s behind the aftercooler.Ā Assuming you don’t have v-drives, your starter is on the starboard side of the motor and the opening for the barring tool is in the bell housing in a similar spot on the opposite (port) side.Ā But w/the aftercooler in place it is hard/impossible to see.
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Kinked wire reinforced hose
This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 2 years ago
December 21, 2021 at 9:50 am After I serviced my aftercoolers I had to kink and bend the wire reinforced hose that runs from the raw water pump to the aftercooler in order to get it over the nipple. Once it was on it was nice and straight but I’m worried that kinking the hose caused damage. Is this a problem or can this kind of hose tolerate a kink?
3 RepliesDecember 26, 2021 at 7:59 am No way to tell without hose in hand. It’s cheap and easy, just change it out with a non-wire high quality marine hose such as the Shields 200 series. No need for wire reinforced there.
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Twin Cummins = common ground?
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 2 years ago
December 1, 2021 at 11:26 am I need to figure out which DC/DC charger to get (to charge a house LiFePO4 battery from the alternator/start batt), but hit a snag not knowing whether to get the Victron “isolated” or “non-isolated” 12v/12v DC to DC charger. The difference is the non-isolated works if there is a common ground from the house to starting battery, which I think is for both starting batteries but I’m not sure (the boat is far away and …
1 ReplyDecember 1, 2021 at 6:41 pm All battery systems on the vessel– engine(s), house, generator, inverters or even a mixed 12-24VDC system MUST, and I mean MUST, share a solid common ground… That is IPSO FACTO..
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Bonding wire on transmission cooler
This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 3 years ago
March 31, 2020 at 2:38 pm I noticed that some transmission coolers come with bonding wire studs. Is it helpful at all in slowing down corrosion to attach a bonding/ground wire?
3 RepliesApril 15, 2021 at 6:25 am Per your picture, the wet elbow is already grounded to the block by the bolts holding it to the turbo…………… Get back a few feet and let me “SEE” the entire wet elbow and its orientation.. Not sure how safe is is..
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Fuel additives
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 3 years ago
August 21, 2020 at 11:06 am I know Tony advises no fuel additives, but what about when the boat sitting for long periods? This year I haven’t used the boat much, so the 400 gallons of diesel I put in a year ago now just down to 200 gallons. Should I be using an additive or biocide to avoid issues? Is the same diesel for 12+ months without treatment an issue?
1 ReplyAugust 23, 2020 at 7:53 am Good filtration before the engine = no additives needed for #2 that has just been sitting for few years.
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Lift muffler?
This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
April 2, 2020 at 12:34 pm Can anyone tell me if this is a lift muffler? All I know is this exits water below the waterline and exhaust gas above the waterline (via the 6″ hose on top). I know the black generator muffler in the background is a lift, but just don’t know about the engine muffler. I need to know because I want to install fresh water flush to the output port on the raw water pump to run with the engine off. Everything is downhill after the mixe…
3 RepliesApril 7, 2020 at 12:46 pm This IS NOT a lift muffler–If all down hill from the mixer to this and there in nothing in-between, nothing to worry about–The water will just go out the bottom of the boat
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Fresh water flush to SMX accessory
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
March 23, 2020 at 2:46 pm I’m looking to route freshwater flush line to the SMX water pump suction accessory port. I thought this port was 1/2″ but I found my 1/2″ elbow fitting was too big. Is this port 7/16″?
2 RepliesMarch 24, 2020 at 8:04 am Further to my post above re: npt sizes – here’s a pic showing the npt size on fitting on a generator I am currently working on
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Winter down time
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
February 21, 2020 at 3:19 pm I don’t use my boat much in the winter… sometimes it sits for a few months without being run at all. Is it bad for the engines if they don’t run for a few months or should I make a special trip to the boat every so often, at least to fire it up? This is in the PNW, so it’s not winterized… but I do have dehumidifiers and a heater in the engine room.
1 ReplyFebruary 21, 2020 at 5:42 pm Hi Mike, I am located in the PNW as well. I don’t use my boat during the winter, as I do winterize (just in case) putting freshwater antifreeze in the plumbing (not engine), I run a dehumidifier, and a couple of small heaters, as well as an oil pan heater. I store the engine with a mixture of freshwater and “salt away” in the raw water side. Being as my marina shuts off the dock water, I don’t run the engine or gen set du…
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Changing exhaust hoses
This topic has 8 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
November 27, 2019 at 3:01 pm Well, I finally managed to change my 3″ dia exhaust outlet hose, but damn that was NOT easy!! It was like they were glued on to the muffler outlet… there was a point where I thought it’d be impossible to get off. After twisting and pulling centimeter by centimeter the finally did come off. My next project was going to be replacing the big 10″ hoses, but now I’m seriously spooked. Any tips or words of encourageme…
8 RepliesDecember 8, 2019 at 9:29 am Yes, Must be very careful as you get closer to pipe. But this is true if you use a knife or hack-saw. Also, once you cut through the wire reinforcement, the hose tends to “pop apart” and separate from the pipe. It makes it much easier to remove when it does that. Or as you get close to a complete cut-through, use a screw- driver blade to do the final separation. But must be really careful when Dremel, but a must for me when th…
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Dumb move on the shifters!
This topic has 6 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
October 3, 2019 at 3:23 pm Well, I did something stupid. I was cruising along at 2400 RPM and when I went to slow down I accidentally pulled the shifters out of gear instead moving the throttles. Seems to me that’s hard on the transmissions, but to make matters worse, without thinking, I instantly put them back into gear again (still at 2400 RPM)! I didn’t hear anything bad and there are not symptoms of anything haywire, but did I do any internal damage??? …
6 RepliesOctober 15, 2019 at 11:39 am The MG506 is a really “good ol’ gear”, but is very light duty in comparason to what they’d put in off road equipment on a HP to HP basis.. A gear similar to a 506 would be rated to about 80-100HP in loader or tractor vs. 200+ HP in a boat. The “shock loads” just are not there is a boat, it’s all thru a “fluid medium”–The prop …. Tony
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Hose age
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
October 7, 2019 at 8:58 am My boat is a 2006 and almost all of the hoses (exhaust, raw) except for coolant are original, so 13 years old. I see guidelines here and there saying that hoses have about a 5-year life. Well, my hoses look very good (exterior) and none have failed and it is extremely expensive to replace them all. I wanted to check with experts here to help me decide whether to spend the $1000’s on new hoses.
1 ReplyOctober 7, 2019 at 9:40 am Only hoses Iāve changed are the two that go between the fuel cooler. They just donāt seem to last that long. Itās interesting how much they swell when you run the engine. If your going to the Trouble to change those you might as well delete it
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Off-engine fuel filter seals