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    • Cummins Marine Forum Topics
    • Flush out system

      This topic has 1 reply, has 1 voices, and was last updated byMark Tripi 6 months ago

      October 15, 2023 at 7:44 pm I used this manifold and Seaboard flush out caps to make a system allowing me to flush out my marine engines (QSB 5.9/425) and generator with freshwater, or by using the valves I can suck in antifreeze to winterize them or I can use this to suck water out of the bilge. I pressure tested it with municipal water pressure and there are no leaky valves or fittings. Ā I did highlight the on-off raised letters in black for clarity in the engine room.

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: General Discussion


      1 Reply
      October 27, 2023 at 12:05 pm     The system made winterizing a breeze.

      Last Post by: Mark Tripi posted: 6 months ago

    • 4BTA-250 lagging behind

      This topic has 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byMark Tripi 9 months ago

      July 4, 2019 at 5:21 am I have twin 4BTAs in my boat and the port engine has always had a lagging behind issue, that I was able to correct somewhat by using the star wheel to reduce spring tension in the aneroid fuel control. But it also has been a weaker engine, seeming to drop more rpm when a single engine was put into gear. Idle speed is set evenly between both engines, I believe the problem may be in the pre-boost fuel control screw but I can not find any info on t…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      4 Replies
      July 18, 2023 at 10:42 am Tom I did get to the bottom of it. I hooked up boost gauges for both engines and my port boost was way down. I put on a new turbo and all was great. I sold the boat last fall and am about to sail a 36 Tiara Open down from The Saint Lawrence River via the Erie Canal. Twin QSB 425s in her.Ā 

      Last Post by: Mark Tripi posted: 9 months ago

    • QSB 425–Fresh water Boat

      This topic has 8 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byNicholas 1 year ago

      November 18, 2022 at 6:03 pm I am looking at a 2007 Ā 36′ with Cummins QSBs in her, less than 400 hours. This is an original owner boat only fresh water. No records at all concerning the engine. Oil and filters done 8 years ago. Looks like it has been used about 20 hours per year. After coolers never looked at. Magnesium anode on the top of the after cooler looked 99% there, and it also looked like it was never out of the engine. Not a sign of corrosion anywhere. If it…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      8 Replies
      November 20, 2022 at 11:17 am Had it trucked down when fuel was a lot cheaper

      Last Post by: Nicholas posted: 1 year ago

    • P7100 throttle lever

      This topic has 3 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byDan 1 year ago

      September 6, 2022 at 5:15 pm The other day I was out cruising and an engine started slowing down. At one point I could only get 2300 out of the starboard 4BTA-250. Ā I started with the simple stuff while drifting and right away found the throttle lever was loose on the splined shaft, so I took it off to see what happened. Seems like it was mounted to far in on the shaft and stripped out the splines on the shaft itself. I was able to move it out on the shaft and picked up goo…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      3 Replies
      September 20, 2022 at 3:50 pm ā€œmysterious washerā€

      Last Post by: Dan posted: 1 year ago

    • 4BTA r/w pump

      This topic has 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byClinton Rowley 2 years ago

      September 21, 2018 at 7:34 pm We are planning a long trip with our boat powered by twin 4BTA-250s. I have had issues with the raw water pump before and would like to see if there is a solution. Is it possible to fit a 6B r/w pump? Looks like some hoses would need to be changed to do this. At the same time would moving the engine mount out that 1/2 inch (dealing with the 6B water pump, Tony’s Tips) be possible? I would really like to be able to replace the pump without …

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      4 Replies
      August 19, 2021 at 7:58 am The 1/2″ Seaboard shim fit my 4BTA. I’m not sure if it will be helpful for next change, it’s the port side engine with limited access, may have to remove the motor mount just for access next time, even if the spacer provides clearance.

      Last Post by: Clinton Rowley posted: 2 years ago

    • Crash Pump System

      This topic has 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byMark Tripi 3 years ago

      August 14, 2020 at 9:31 am A few years ago I replaced the Sherwood raw water pumps on my 4BTAs by fabricating a mounting bracket and driving a Jabsco pump at the front of the engine. In the back of my head I had the idea of installing a “crash pump” system but a lack of room meant no permanent piping. My friend Dan did the same water pump mods to his boat and we talked about the crash pump idea. He mentioned banjo valves and Trudesign fittings. After looking t…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      4 Replies
      August 15, 2020 at 8:18 am Maybe manual start /stop cables instead of the solenoids? Not going to get crazy over it though.

      Last Post by: Mark Tripi posted: 3 years ago

    • Project finished

      This topic has 18 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated byDan 4 years ago

      July 4, 2019 at 6:01 am Besides the port engine lagging behind, I am done with the past winters project. I had to install two new after coolers and plumb them, and I designed a new raw water system for the 4BTAs. You know what a pain the Sherwood pumps are so I installed two Jabsco pumps on a front mounted bracket driven by a cog belt. The pumps have to run underspend with a half cam to reduce the output close to the Sherwood pumps. They run at the correct temp with no…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      18 Replies
      April 14, 2020 at 5:55 am Updating with the second install, the Starboard pump now has some 25 hours of runtime, Port has 7, no issues so far. Both the original Sherwoods appear to be in great condition for the 1500 hours of runtime they have accumulated, freshwater flushing probably the helped… the intake hose pictured with the pump is 4 years old (normally in the environment my boat is moored in the they would be full of shells in a couple of years)

      Last Post by: Dan posted: 4 years ago

    • Electric Lift Pump?

      This topic has 7 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 4 years ago

      January 27, 2020 at 9:32 pm Just wondering, has anyone ever replaced the lift pump on a 4BTA -250 with an electric lift pump? Over the winter I like to tinker and this has popped into my head. I know reliability could be an issue, but reading Tonys input on other treads tells me electric pumps can run a long time. What pressure and volume would be needed?

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      7 Replies
      January 31, 2020 at 7:44 am I do not have a 12V that would work.. Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 4 years ago

    • 4BTA hard starting

      This topic has 7 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated byRob Schepis 4 years ago

      September 3, 2019 at 5:32 pm I wanted to get away from the other thread about 6BT hard starting, did not want to hijack the thread. I am waiting for a couple of shut off valves to block the supply and return lines to my port engine to see about loosing the fuel prime. I tried a clear line out of the razor to see if it was sucking any air and had no bubbles. Starting it up today after a day between use it required 10 pumps on the prime, cranking, 10 more pumps, more cranking…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      7 Replies
      September 15, 2019 at 6:41 am Thanks for the follow-up

      Last Post by: Rob Schepis posted: 4 years ago

    • After cooler set-up

      This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byMark Tripi 5 years ago

      April 18, 2019 at 5:56 pm In addition to removing the Sherwood r/w pumps from my 4 BTAs, I had to replace the after coolers. After almost 20 years they started leaking and luckily I found it before the season and before I ate both engines. As the original after cooler is NLA, I went with the Bowman coolers. I mounted them on an aluminum angle, had a flange welded onto the discharge for the air heater and went to work mounting them. I will test run the engines on the shop…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      3 Replies
      April 19, 2019 at 12:19 pm this is the tool if you don’t have a machine

      Last Post by: Mark Tripi posted: 5 years ago

    • R/w pump location move?

      This topic has 20 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated byMark Tripi 5 years ago

      January 28, 2019 at 11:18 am Good day fellow diesel owners. My boat (1999 Pursuit 3000 Express) is powered by twin Cummins 4 BTA-250 engines with Sherwood r/w pumps. As you know these pumps have a bad reputation. getting to them in the boat is next to impossible if you are not 90 lbs and very short. Next spring my wife and I are going to do some longer distance cruising and I want to make the boat as reliable and easier to maintain as possible. Toward that end the engines a…

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      20 Replies
      April 3, 2019 at 3:53 pm Thanks. There is an older gentleman at the marina with 4BTAs in his boat that replaced his after coolers with the Bowman units and he has a problem with the air hoses popping off. He does not believe what we have told him, you can’t mount them to the stringers!

      Last Post by: Mark Tripi posted: 5 years ago

    • Cummins 4BTA air heater

      This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated byMark Tripi 5 years ago

      March 27, 2019 at 6:02 pm I have a pair of 4BTAs and I am in the middle of replacing the after coolers with the Bowman coolers. I have welded an adapter plate onto the cooler air outlet to mount the heater but wondered where to put the sensor/switch that is mounted in the after cooler. If it is just a switch I can run two wires up to the dash and turn on the heaters manually and eliminate it. Any ideas?

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: Cummins Marine Engines


      2 Replies
      March 27, 2019 at 7:14 pm Because where we cruise we need some starting assist in the fall and early spring. We don’t always have shore power available. They work very well for what I need. It would make it very easy if I could turn them on/off from the helm and not have to install that sensor or switch.

      Last Post by: Mark Tripi posted: 5 years ago

    • Exhaust Elbow Gasket

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 5 years ago

      June 24, 2018 at 1:05 pm I am waiting for my exhaust elbow to be repaired after I removed it when a bolt broke. The turbo rusted enough to expand at the mating area and bent the flange. I have the mating surface cleaned up, and got a composite gasket from SBMAR. In the tips section I noticed you using some high temp silicone at the turbo base. Should I use some on the elbow to turbo area, using the s/s or composite gasket?

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: General Discussion


      1 Reply
      June 24, 2018 at 2:12 pm No one has a crystal ball here……………….PICTURES of what you see so we can see too.. Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 5 years ago

    • Long Idle Times

      This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated byTony Athens 5 years ago

      June 6, 2018 at 6:05 pm I own a 1999 30 foot Pursuit with twin Cummins 4BTA-250s, under 600 hours at this time. My wife and I are looking to start a trip called the Great Loop, and that includes days of straight idle times in the Erie Canal and others. I am concerned about fouling the injectors and wondered if this is a legitimate concern. Years ago when in the USCG we were at an oil spill and idled for a few weeks on end and I had to replace this injectors. I want to …

      Started by: Mark Tripi in: General Discussion


      1 Reply
      June 7, 2018 at 6:54 pm DON’T give it a 2nd thought.. Plus for comfort, you can always bump it up to 800-1000 RPM if needed, plus that will help keep your battering up more. Hopefully your thermostats keep your engine at 160-180 F during those extended idle time periods.. If / when you get a chance, run the engine under load above 1400 up to higher cruise RPM’s when you can.. That will clean anything that needs to be cleaned in just a few minutes.. Tony

      Last Post by: Tony Athens posted: 5 years ago

Viewing 14 topics - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)