Crash Pump System

[Mark Tripi]

A few years ago I replaced the Sherwood raw water pumps on my 4BTAs by fabricating a mounting bracket and driving a Jabsco pump at the front of the engine. In the back of my head I had the idea of installing a “crash pump” system but a lack of room meant no permanent piping. My friend Dan did the same water pump mods to his boat and we talked about the crash pump idea. He mentioned banjo valves and Trudesign fittings. After looking them over they were exactly what was needed. I finished up the system the other day and tested it. Works great. I can use both engines to have two emergency pumps in the engine room, or by connecting both hoses one engine can pump out the cabin or the aft bilge. I store both hoses under the berth up forward. I can use the system to flush and winterize the engines also.

Topic

[Mark Tripi]

Maybe manual start /stop cables instead of the solenoids? Not going to get crazy over it though.

[Dan]

Fireisland1 wrote:

I have some concerns about crash pump systems. It adds complexity to the water supply so you must pay close attention to it..

I agree, but in the event of a scenario of all other dewatering systems failing (flooding taking out the electrical system on the boat) or not keeping up with flooding, running the engines dry seems irrelevant even if it only buys some time, and 6000 GPH certainly will buy some time,I also have a portable 4000 GPH rated pump on board with an independent power supply, that to has its flaws, in reality getting it deployed and up and running would be up to me to make it happen, same scenario for the engine driven solution.

The design and lay out of Mark’s system is not reliant on entering the engine compartment on his boat,it’s all accessible from the main deck.

The factory electrical system (and the lack of compartment isolation ) on this particular boat is woefully designed and laid out,and would be quickly compromised (compromising the installed electrical pumps) in the event of flooding and that scenario would shut down the engines with the loss of electrical power to the fuel solenoids.
Mark, perhaps a simple mechanical override on the solenoids should be considered? even zip ties would work and be accessible without entering the engine compartment.

[Mark Tripi]

I appreciate your comments. On my vessel space is at a premium so having a built in system to me is the best solution. If needed one engine can pump upwards of 3000 gallons an hour (50gpm x 60 minutes), and if needed in a worse case scenario I can double the engine room to 6000 gph. As an ex Coast Guard engineer the system is very simple to me, open one valve and close the other. Then reverse the procedure. All of this is to buy time, maybe save the boat too. Hope I never need it and only use them to flush and winterize, but you never know. Operating instructions will be posted and my crew already knows how to work this.

[Fireisland1]

I have some concerns about crash pump systems. It adds complexity to the water supply so you must pay close attention to it. In an emergency Someone must control the valves. That puts that person in the engine room which might not be the best place to be if you are taking on serious water. Also you must make sure you don’t run the engines dry if they scavenge all the water. That means switching back to strainers. Yes they can work and may be a good addition but you need lots of training for the crew and you must run actual drills . Yours look like the best set up I have seen in a while. My preference is a stand alone de-watering system. I carry 2 -4000 GPH pumps with their own gel batteries. I single hand often so it lets me drop them in and go problem solving .

[Author]

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