[Paul]

Was able to disassemble the filter today … just got a better angle on the screw and things came apart easily.  Thanks for the info – another routine maintenance item I can add to my “don’t have to pay for this to be done” list.

[Paul]

Weird – yesterday I did a YouTube search with key words ZF/transmission/filter/replace and didn’t see that one.  So it seems my ‘real’ problem is simply that my screw is probably just in need of a good soaking with Kroil so I can get it loose.<br /><br />As always, great community with super suggestions.  Will let you know how things go.

[Paul]

To get it off you need to continue unscrewing after the tab contacts the housing. 

Ahhh, so the screw is one of those ‘compression driver’ type of thing that ‘pushes’ the rim of the cap outward when it screws in, and ‘releases’ some of that outward pushing when it is unscrewed … I guess?  Luckily the area really isn’t too inaccessible, just a bit of a tight squeeze for an old fat guy like me.<br /><br />Sounds like you have pressure in the transmission and/or it is overfilled with ATF.   

There is usually a ‘hiss’ when I unscrew the dip stick, but my level has always been between the lines … it’s low now after the leak, I’ll refill it after replacing the filter & software.<br /><br />Thanks for the info … will probably have to soak the screw for a bit before I go after it again.

[Paul]

Looking at J Dragon’s reply has me thinking.  I did a five year belt replacement on both my 6BTA 5.9’s a month or so back, and dropped one of the belt guard bolts and could never find it.  I replaced with a ‘similar’ (thread same/length close? don’t remember, shorter if anything) bolt that I got at ACE.  Aside from definitely (I think/hope) getting the longer top bolt correct (with the spacer), I’m not sure I put the other bolts (including the ‘new’ one) into the same holes they came out of.  Now I have an oil leak, source unknown, on the stb engine.  Cleaning the bilge and putting in new diapers this week will hopefully put me in the right area – fingers crossed it’s just a belt guard bolt issue.<br /><br />Question to Tony’s parts guy … Do you sell the bolts? (set of three for each engine, didn’t see them in the parts section) I feel I owe it to the engines to put all new bolts in, to make sure they’re happy.

[Paul]

Thanks Tony …

Looks like my ‘wires out’ are Brownish/Purple, Orange, and Black (see pic). 

Bit different than the wiring diagram I have for the engine/alternator combo (pg D-16 Wiring Diagram (B Series)).  Which shows Brown, Red and Orange. Did not realize it would require a different style tach … might be driving the project into the ‘I’ll just keep putting up with what I have’ range.

[Paul]

Thanks Mike … I’ll take a look at my current ignition wiring and see if I can figure out the two wire solution.  I’ll probably put in a ‘cut off switch’ also (or just use and empty aux switch on the dash) for a bit of added ‘security’ – though I figure someone who wants to steal the boat will just hot wire it anyway.

[Paul]

Bummer on the cracked valve, but now you know what needs to be fixed – hopefully back underway after quick repair.

[Paul]

Tossing this out – are you sure you have a tooth counting bell pick up? My 1999 6BTAs sense RPM from the alternator. Check your wiring harness diagram.

[Paul]

Life, even when retired, intervenes and stops you from getting to the boat, doing work, and then doing sea trials to make sure everything is good to go. So, after a long delay I can report the HE in, dock and sea trials completed SAT and temps stayed right at 175F-180F through a 20 minute WOT run (lots of race tracks). I take the ‘do the after cooler’ comments to heart, and as mentioned, they’re in the budget (at least as planned) for when the boats on the hard next year, but right now, they seem to both be fine.

[Paul]

I was going to just use a T off my sender’s port (on the common block) but looks like using the gallery ports would be even easier for my manual gauge … what’s their threading? is it 1/8 NPT like the port on the common block?

[Paul]

HE arrived today … time to start stretching so I can climb outboard and hook’r up.

[Paul]

While it cleaned up well after a good soak, the fact that I couldn’t get it to hold pressure and the discoloration that I was informed it caused by the alloy changing (can’t recall now if it’s tin going in or out?) told me it was time to bite the bullet and replace it before it got worse.

Agreed, after cooler very important, and as I mentioned, it’s on my list of to do’s for preventative maintenance next year. A man has to stay with in budget or the boat goes no where 🙂

[Paul]

I decided to do the heat exchanger first because the last time a maintenance entry was made about it was a flush in 2013 (previous owner kept fairly good maintenance records). The aftercooler was noted as being cleaned in the spring of 2016. I have the aftercoolers on my 2020 (probably late in the year) preventative maintenance list but will move them up if the heat exchanger replacement doesn’t seem to do the trick.

[Paul]

I was worried because I thought it might be as simple as that 🙂 …. hardest part is going to be doing the wire chase from helm to engine room, but it will cool off outside in a month or so and I’ll have an early winter project.

[Paul]

Completely disregard this sentence in my reply. The oil pressure sender isn’t shown in the diagram.

Paul Hoffman wrote:

(Note, the oil gauge sender is dual pole in this diagram, not single pole, case ground like ours)

[Paul]

I have a 1999 6BTA 5.9 M3 330HP – probably same engine as you do … First picture the three-way combo fuel/oil block on my starboard engine (inboard side) showing the oil pressure sensor on the left and the single wire/case ground sender for the oil pressure gauge on the right.

Second picture is the three-way combo block from one of Tony’s tips article. Third picture is another steal from one of Tony’s tips … the wiring diagram showing how the key being ‘on’ kept current going to your sensor while you were away (Note, the oil gauge sender is dual pole in this diagram, not single pole, case ground like ours)

Looks to me like you blew the oil pressure sensor which I believe was ‘seeing’ current when the key was left ‘on’. Strange there was no alarm sounding to remind you the key was in the ‘on’ position. I know when I first turn the key to ‘on’ I get the alarm and power to the gauges. Once I know those I working I proceed to ‘run’ to start the engine.

Might be worth checking all the other items that saw current overnight. I once blew the starter, air heaters, and fuel solenoid when an ignition got hung up when I was trying to restart an engine earlier this year.

[Paul]

Thanks Rob, that eases my mind. Now onto more fun things to worry about 🙂

[Paul]

While we didn’t make it as far south as we had hope, we did find that (aside from the mechanical issue, that I can only hope/think is just something that couldn’t be prevented?) everything on the trip went well. Our year plus of local ‘practice’ and couple of months of voyage planning paid off. We had no navigational or other mechanical issues. No surprises at all. We’re ready to head south again after hurricane season.

[Paul]

71nm in 9 1/2 hours … up the same track. No boat issues. Anchored for the night in Vero Beach FL. Should be home tomorrow.

[Paul]

Well, it certainly took longer than I expected (mostly waiting for a mechanic since I’m not skilled or limber enough to have completed the repair and a weekend lost due to a wrong starter being pulled) but everything is buttoned up and tested and we’re ready to get off the dock and underway again.

[Author]

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