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6BTA Starter Replacement
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
2 years ago June 11, 2021 at 11:35 am Hello I’m going to carry a spare starter motor but I’m intetestinterested in the process to unbolt and remove the starter. Inside bolt look tough to access. Must I remove the heat exchager to remove the 6BTA starter. Thanks Henry Gamsby
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
1 ReplyJune 12, 2021 at 10:07 am NO, you do not——On the 3 bolt starter, the inside bolt is a tough one.. Use a LONG 3/8 drive extension (or 2 or 3 put together) and come in from the front end.. Factory bolts are 12 Pt hex ( you need a 10mm 12 point socket to fit them) and are totally silly.. You can replace with 12MM six point HX, grade 8.8 or better. Use grease on all threads and surfaces–Spray inside the gear/bendix area with something like motorcycle cha…Last Post by:
posted: 2 years ago
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Idler Pulley Bearings
This topic has 11 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
3 years ago January 24, 2021 at 7:02 am I recently purchased the idler pulley upgrade spacer and bolt for my 6bta and was wondering if its a wise time to change the bearings as preventative maintenance. If so does anyone happen to know the size or brand to get so I can try an find some as I will be doing the upgrade this week? One last question is how many bearings do I need I am assuming 2 for each pulley?
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
11 RepliesFebruary 1, 2021 at 8:48 am Good Job! BTW, the spring idler pulley uses the same bearings.. Think about that one too. A little different as to the technique, but just a doable for a hands-on operator. TonyLast Post by:
posted: 3 years ago
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Coolant Drain Valve – 6BTA
This topic has 9 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by
3 years ago January 5, 2021 at 10:47 pm Hi Guys Has anyone changed out their coolant drain plug for a small ball valve and then a larger hose tail to a hose for draining easily and cleanly? I’m thinking of using a brass 1/8npt ball valve but unsure if it will take the temps and survive. Just thinking ahead as i’ll be replacing the alternator shortly and was thinking of doing the thermostat at the same time. SB engine is a pig to drain cleanly so i end up dumping it in the …
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
9 RepliesJanuary 26, 2021 at 5:12 am Can anyone confirm this is actually a 1/8npt thread as I originally thought?? I want to do this prior to changing my thermostat… SteveLast Post by:
posted: 3 years ago
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QSC 8.3 After cooler Test
This topic has 5 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by
3 years ago
December 24, 2020 at 11:31 am I have read the archives and used Rob’s pictures to build a copy of his after cooler test fixture to pressure test the after cooler on our 2008 QSC 8.3. I used 1/2″ aluminum plate & 3/8″ thick neoprene for the end seals and drilled a 7/16″ hole for the compressed air to enter the cooler core. I have attached a picture of my fixture. When I pressurize to 20psi, I get leakage between the gasket & the plate. I have…
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
5 RepliesDecember 26, 2020 at 3:49 pm Thanks for all the replies! This morning i went back to work on it and found that the schrader valve I used was leaking too after spraying soap water on it. I replace it and then snugged up on the nuts a bit more. It held 15psi for 6 hours so I called it good and will reinstall in the housing tomorrow.Last Post by:
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370 B Won’t go above 2100
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This topic has 53 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by
3 years ago
May 26, 2020 at 5:54 am 32 Holland put up for winter, ran perfectly. Launched over weekend and engine won’t go over 2100. Plenty of throttle left. Went to 3000 in fall. No prop change, no nothing changed. No smoke, runs smooth up to 2100. All filters new, no air restrictions. Ran with fuel from a can, ran without air cleaner. Have not adjusted aneroid yet, but not sure how much to turn star wheel for adjustment. Thinking maybe the shaft that operates diaphram …
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
August 17, 2020 at 9:59 am Aftercooler core and housing brandy new from Sbmar. but here is a question. i have receipts from 2010 for long block replacments . im concerned because the tag on the port motor has a stamp for 230. The turbo and after cooler and marinized parts went back on this new long block. The boat came with and i have the engine tags for the 330s. does the turbo and aftercooler essentually make it a 330 ? Or did the shop that did the swap screw th…
53 Replies
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posted: 3 years ago
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Aftercooler Sealing
This topic has 7 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by
4 years ago February 6, 2020 at 5:36 pm To those of you here that service aftercoolers, if the aluminum housing is pitted is it proper to use some other sealer besides grease? I have QSC engines which requires $3700 per aftercooler to replace and would like to dodge that bullet. I did add some pictures although they are not the best.
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
7 RepliesFebruary 10, 2020 at 2:32 am What I did on my aftercoolers for my 5.9qsb’s was I wire brushed the putting holes, filled the pits with 2 part marine epoxy filler, sanded the surface smooth, sprayed a light coat of epoxy primer and enamel paint and the sealing surface was restored. There’s also a body filler called “Allmetal” that is an aluminum base that you could use but it’s harder to sand. Good luckLast Post by:
posted: 4 years ago
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Nothin like clean seawater components
This topic has 10 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by
4 years ago November 1, 2019 at 6:57 pm Pulled entire seawater side of the system and soaked the parts in barnacle buster and what a difference!!! Can’t wait to start assembly, prime and paint then install. I’m just really glad I took this stuff apart. Does anyone know the paint color or code for the Cummins white ?
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
10 RepliesNovember 5, 2019 at 5:14 am worldcatlemon wrote: Rob, I removed the aftercooler core from the housing, soaked it in boiling water with Simple Green to remove any oil, then rinsed it, blew it dry with compressed air then soaked it in Barnacle buster to remove the calcium deposits. Clean as a whistle I do caution against soaking the entire core in any acid based solution, the air side is much more delicate and, as we know, the acid does no good there, it is for descaling of …Last Post by:
posted: 4 years ago
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Heat exchanger core
This topic has 15 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
4 years ago July 25, 2019 at 7:22 pm Hi guys, I bought a 20 year old boat and the receipts from previous owner showed the last time the heat exchangers and aftercoolers were serviced was 2016. So I pulled them to have them serviced at a local radiator shop. When I pulled them the port engine had clear/teal coolant. The starboard engine had teal, but it was not clear at all. From what I’ve researched this is a sign of saltwater intrusion. The radiator shop called today an…
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
15 RepliesJuly 31, 2019 at 4:51 am I agree with Tony. Do some “body work” or “spackling” on the flat machined ends with JB Weld or grey Marine TexLast Post by:
posted: 4 years ago
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6 CTA after cooler maintenance
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
5 years ago May 7, 2019 at 10:12 am I recently purchased boat with two 6 ctaās 1996 year models, engines have 680 hrs, and run good with no issues at this time. I am the third owner of the boat and there were no maintenance logs of any kind kept or at least not given to me. So I am in the process of getting maintenance done so I have a starting point to track everything since I have no idea how long or if it has even ever been done other than the previous owner telling me when he …
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
2 RepliesMay 7, 2019 at 7:34 pm I personally would not be too worried about the internal faces (mine were rough) but the sealing face is the end faces – how pitted are these? Mine were pitted but i took them down with lots of elbow grease and wet and dry emery paper.. until they were smooth. Cores you will probably tell more after cleaning the corrosion (looks like from housing) in the vanes and testing.. is that blocked pipe filled with a slug of zinc? or soldered? I h…Last Post by:
posted: 5 years ago
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Removing aftercooler core
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This topic has 43 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by
5 years ago December 1, 2018 at 5:35 pm Trying to remove aftercooler core on a 6cta. I’ve used penetrating oil and wd40, but can’t make it budge. Do I just pour wd40 in the center ports and let it soak from the inside? Thanks, Scott
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
December 23, 2018 at 3:42 pm Great. Thanks for the pics. 43 Replies
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posted: 5 years ago
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Help with after cooler core removal
This topic has 12 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by
6 years ago
January 22, 2018 at 6:27 pm Hello Everyone, Seeking some advice on removing the core from a 6bta after-cooler housing. Everything looks good from the core to the caps but I canāt seem to get the core to slide out. I have successfully moved it to a point where one end is flush with the housing using lots of PB Blaster and WD 40 using some persuasion and a block of wood but canāt get it to move any further. It looks like the plastic on the core has swelled and making things …
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
12 RepliesFebruary 16, 2018 at 9:04 am You can also take them to some one who has a sonic cleaner , that can heat up the housing and also cleans corrosion between core and housing, or soak the whole unit ( with caps and 0-rings off) in diluted Barnacle Buster, try this before beating them out. You can clean cores with Barnacle Buster or similar product after you have them out.Last Post by:
posted: 6 years ago
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Seized aftercooler core
This topic has 14 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago
January 14, 2017 at 10:57 am I cannot free the after cooler core from the Ā casing. Ā I have soaked inside and outside of the core with PB blaster and another concoction of ATF oil and acetone Ā for two weeks now rotating the casing 180Ā° every few days. I have tried using a sledge hammer with a piece wood and plastic on top of the core as not to damage it.It will not break free. Could I take it to a machine shop with a Ā hydraulic press,and use some heat with the press. Ā Any id…
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
14 RepliesMay 16, 2017 at 4:12 am Sorry for the delay with aftercooler progress.I had a machinist take off about 25 thou total from top and bottom of the casing.The core itself needed repair,probably from all the pounding.Searched around for some o-rings and found a couple 5 inch diameter and .156 thick.Made up my own testing equipment for future use and reassembled with lots or lithium grease and tested.Held at 15 Ā lbs.psi for 6 hours.Thankyou for all your suggestions.Bob …Last Post by:
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Heat Exchanger Flat End Cap Fix
This topic has 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by
7 years ago October 19, 2016 at 9:25 pm Is your heat exchanger cap weeping at the outer perimeter? Ā Is it “flattened” from years of over-tightening? Ā It is important to put the “concave” back in the cap if it has been over tightened over time and flattened. Think of the cap as a big lock-washer as you “snug” it up. If itĀ“s too flat you will crush the center gum washer before putting any sealing pressure on the outer perimeter. Here’s the fix i…
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in: Cummins Marine Engines
2 RepliesNovember 13, 2016 at 5:50 am Yes Dan, works well.Ā Always a good thing when the guy “at-profit” tells you how to fix something rather then selling you a new one..Last Post by:
posted: 7 years ago
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6BTA Starter Replacement
