Removing aftercooler core

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Trying to remove aftercooler core on a 6cta. I’ve used penetrating oil and wd40, but can’t make it budge. Do I just pour wd40 in the center ports and let it soak from the inside?

Thanks,
Scott

Topic

[Rob Schepis]

Great. Thanks for the pics.

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I received my new housing and installed the core per the great instructions on this site. The attached pics are of my pressure testing system. Parts were obtained from the local home center for less than $30.

So far so good on holding the pressure.

Scott

[Rob Schepis]

MATTHEW SCOTT WARD wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion, Rob. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new housing.

Scott

Good move.

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Thanks for the suggestion, Rob. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new housing.

Scott

[Rob Schepis]

If the housing is on it’s last leg so to speak maybe give this product a try?

https://repaintsupply.com/usc-14010-all-metal-polyester-aluminum-filler-p1073.html

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

That makes sense, Tony. The corners definitely have some bad spots. Not sure I’m willing to take a chance on a leak, even if I could get a good seal initially. The peace of mind will be worth the price of the new housing.

Thanks,
Scott

[Tony Athens]

The flat surface is the sealing surface.. The issue is the inside “corners” of this flat surface.. If the corners are bad, then it’s iffy at best..

Just put it together and pressure test–Lots of grease. But before you do, pressure the the core separate otherwise you will not know what is leaking.

Tony

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I’ve been thinking further about the engineering of these aftercoolers. I’ve attached a crude drawing of the cross-section of an assembled aftercooler. It would seem the seals highlighted in red, which are between the o-ring and the core and angled part of the cap are much more critical than the seal shown in green. In order for water to get to the seal shown in green, the seal between the o-ring and the angled part of the cap would have to fail. As long as the mating surface of the housing is reasonably flat, it seems like the seal would be good. I’m not trying to doubt everyone’s expertise. I’m just trying to understand it better. What am I missing?

[Rob Schepis]

MATTHEW SCOTT WARD wrote:

So, by “done” , I assume that means I need to order a new case. Correct?

That’s correct Matt.

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

So, by “done” , I assume that means I need to order a new case. Correct?

[Tony Athens]

The bottom is “done”..

Tony

[Rob Schepis]

To my eyes there are too many nooks & crannies where the o-ring needs to make it’s seal. I would contact the shop as to the availability of a new housing.

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Here are the pictures of the top…

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I posting 2 posts of the bottom and top of my port aftercooler housing. Both of these sets of pics are after block sanding each side. The bottom definitely had more material taken off than the top. This post contains pictures of the bottom. Please let me know your thoughts on whether this is good enough.

Thanks again for all the advice!
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I can block sanding, but I’m concerned about getting a consistent amount of material off around the circumference of each end. Would I be better off just taking it to a machine shop?

I definitely wouldn’t want to reassemble “permanently”. It appears the previous assembly was with some type of tan caulk or glue. This cooler came apart relatively easy. The starboard side is still soaking in Kroil.

Thanks,
Scott

[Tony Athens]

Block sand it about .020″ on each end and lets see what you have then. If the core is 100% good, you could always assemble it with a a product like GE Ultra Glaze instead of grease and it would not leak, but you would never be able to get it apart down the road.

Tony

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I took a couple of additional pictures this morning to hopefully provide better clarity. Would appreciate any additional thoughts.

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I believe the core is good, but haven’t been able to pressure test it. Was planning to test the entire setup after reassembling.

Scott

[Rob Schepis]

Housing looks like a goner to me. Tony can chime in to confirm yea or nay..

Core is good? The shop may have new “housing only” available if needed.

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Attached are some pics of the bottom of my port aftercooler case. I’ve started block sanding and wanted to get your thoughts on the corrosion around the rim. Does this need to be machined?

Thanks,
Scott

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