Removing aftercooler core

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Trying to remove aftercooler core on a 6cta. I’ve used penetrating oil and wd40, but can’t make it budge. Do I just pour wd40 in the center ports and let it soak from the inside?

Thanks,
Scott

Topic

[Rob Schepis]

The core air side looks okay to me. Anything further would require ultrasonic.

As to the thread sealant on the zinc caps……

https://www.sbmar.com/articles/myths-using-pipe-dope-threads/

https://www.sbmar.com/community/topic/pencil-zinc-install/

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Hello all. The aftercooler saga continues. I have a couple of questions.

1. I’ve attached pictures (both sides) of the core from my port engine. I used 3 cans of brake cleaner and soaked it in Simple Green for 24 hours. Does this look clean. Enough?
2. The third picture is of one if the end covers. Notice the white sealant around the zinc. When I reinstall my new zinc’s, it’s my understanding that I should NOT put any sealant on them. Is that correct?

Starboard aftercooler is still frozen. I’ve had it soaking in Kroil for the last 24 hours. Still hopeful.

Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I ordered the Kroil yesterday. Hoping to have it in the next couple of days. In the meantime, I’m continuing to use heat and tapping around the perimeter with WD40 inside. As of this morning, there still is no seeping. Hopefully the Kroil will make the difference.

Keep your fingers crossed. ?

Scott

[Stephen Oliver]

If it is like my port one was – no amount of pounding worked and I ended up damaging the core (pushing the tubes into the end plate as the plate bent and flaring the end caps out.

If its not budging and the flame hasnt worked – get it to an engineering shop – get it pressed out. Then you will have a tool for future use (not that you should need it) If you keep hammering – more damage will occur.I ended up having to get the end plate remachined as it was tapered outwards

Also if its stuck try and get it from the bottom as if you press down from the top like I did / had to the fins will get bent by the lump of corrosion that will be at the bottom of the housing.

Or be patient like Tony says.. I’m not :o)

Just my 2c…

Steve

[Rob Schepis]

Philip wrote:

I second Kroil… I don’t know what that stuff is, but it WORKS! Nothing I have used works even remotely as good.

Phil

See attached.

[Rob Schepis]

Yes, clean that top joint at the core to the housing real good with a wire brush and apply the kroil around the perimeter there. This way you (gravity) are working both ends when it’s standing on your bench – from the air side on the bottom end, from the seawater side on the top end. And when you flip it do the same.

Since you are still battling this thing I doubt you hit the core hard enough to deform it. Must just be the way the ends were machined?

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Ok. I’ll pick up some Kroil, empty the WD-40 and pour this in the air side. Do I also try to spray some around the outside rim?

Any concern with my previous post about the rim of the core no longer being flat?

Thanks again for all the help, folks!

Scott

[Philip]

I second Kroil… I don’t know what that stuff is, but it WORKS! Nothing I have used works even remotely as good.

Phil

[Tony Athens]

Suggestions? KROIL and time.

Tony

[Mike Mason]

I used a soft block of wood across the bundle and a 3lb sledge. A few good taps and it was moving. Once I got it out past the housing it was easy to get the rest out. At some point, a press or a few good wacks with the bfh and it will move.

Keep at it. Just make sure to pressure test once put back together. If you look at my posts you will see how I did mine.

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Sorry, it appears the bottom pic didn’t attach correctly. I’ve attached it to this post…

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I’ve applied heat and tapped the perimeter with a mallet in an attempt to get the WD40 to start flowing from the inside. I heated again and used a piece of wood and rubber mallet to try and get it to move. So far, no go.

First picture is of the bottom, which I’m 90% sure is the side that is stuck. The second pic is of the top side. At this point I’ve poured the WD40 out and added fresh wd40. One more application of heat and related tapping. Now, we wait.

I did notice that it appears the brass ring on the bottom is no longer flat (I assume from the pounding). When I sit the entire assembly on that end, it has a “rock” to it. The cap still fits on, so I hope it’s ok.

Any other suggestions? What are my options if I can’t get it freed up?

Thanks,
Scott

[Tony Athens]

Lets “see” what you have 1st.. But is so many words–What ever it takes mixed in with elbow grease.

Tony

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Once I get the core out, what should I use to clean the inside of the case? Brake cleaner?

Thanks,
Scott

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Ok. So if the WD40 isn’t seeping out after work tomorrow, I’ll try the torch. Based on the suggestions here, I’ll keep the flame yellow and move it around the perimeter of the aluminum, then use a wood block and mallet for persuasion.

Pics tomorrow, one way or the other. Keep your fingers crossed.

Thanks to everyone for the help!
Scott

[Rob Schepis]

Aluminum has the higher CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) so that will work in your favor when heating

[Tony Athens]

A propane torch is what you want with a big flame “like a rose bud”.–If you don’t heat it fast the core will expand with it..

Tony

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

Is a propane torch too much to use?

[Tony Athens]

Warm the aluminum quickly and it will expand –Tap the outside heavy ring area with a hammer.. Let is soak with the bottom down.. Keep at it..

Post some pics to help others..

Tony

[MATTHEW SCOTT WARD]

I’ve had wd40 soaking on the inside overnight. I turned it end-to-end this morning and it immediately started seeping from the other end, which is the top of the cooler. So, I know the top is free. I’ve turned it back over so I can continue soaking g the bottom side. I added a little more wd40 to one of the ports, since some leaked out. Does it matter whether I add it to the intake or outgoing port? Will continue to let it soak.

Thanks,
Scott

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