[Paul Hampton]

Steve,
I have similar ticking noise, I’ve had it since day one of getting to boat In 2009 on 50hrs, I now have 2520Hrs of faultless Recreational running. This was achieved I’m sure with the advice given from Tony, Paul Foulston in the early days via BD

I have done valve lash several times throughout, but always thought it was a normal noise coming from the fuel pump.

Could I ask you to Please close the thread On any findings, as I and others are interested, I hope my ticking is normal and haven’t been letting this ride for such a long time.

Best of luck
Regards
Paul

[Paul Hampton]

A little history
I got the boat in 2009 with 50 hours, launched in November.
in early 2010 I was out and the coolant pipe blew out of the back of the block.
I saw steam, stopped and shut down, it got the turbo hot enough to take the paint off. ( you won’t recall it ) both you and Paul Foulston kindly took time to advise me on what to do and check on another forum (BD)

I had no symptoms of cracked manifold or head, no bubbles in header, fitted alarms and fitted a new clamping plate that retained that coolant pipe to the block (it was never fitted at the factory) that pipe is a push fit with a oring seal.

The guys I bought the boat off hadn’t put the boat or engine in the water, so the initial 50 hours I have no idea of, but that engine was pristine.

The boat has never missed a beat until 2000+ hours later.
The engine did not smoke but had slight sheen out of exhaust.

Last summer when I was out I pulled up as I normally do and after a minute the exhaust started bellowing whitish smoke for about a minute, then cleaned up on idle, this happened a few times with slight coolant loss in header tank.

Because of working overseas I went away and when I came home, I tried to start the engine, normally it is instant even after standing 6 weeks or so, this time it stuttered to turn over, I stopped the start up. I never got it fired but it turned maybe 1 or twice.
I checked coolant in header and it was empty, over time it had drained through the manifold. I thought it may be the gasket on the top of the manifold or turbo, when I opened it up, I could see the coolant.

I changed both gaskets and refilled with tap water, this drained fairly quickly
Injectors out and 5&6 had coolant inside.

Dropped the oil, drained all coolant remaining, vacuumed each cylinder through the injector bore, turned the engine to fire excess water out, new engine oil & diesel 50/50 mix in each cylinder, turned / barred the engine, then I had to go away overseas again.

Came home 12 weeks later, poured new oil into tappets , barred the engine sprayed wd40 in each cylinder, manifold off.

This is where I am.

On the injectors, all I did was remove them, I haven’t had them checked, maybe I should ? But while they are out do I check/ set to the 260bar or increase the pressure as I mentioned in my op.

Thanks again for your time

Paul

[Paul Hampton]

Last shot

[Paul Hampton]

Sorry I’m on this crap iPhone bear with me

[Paul Hampton]

Hi Tony
It’s cracked between 5&6 internally. I blanked the turbo off and filled the coolant side with no pressure, prior to an air test. The water was weeping out. See photo.

What I can’t understand is how it has happened, I am propped to 2700 loaded with 9 people and full fuel. However I would max out with 6 people, never go above 2000 and cruise At 1900 which is sweet spot. Water Temp never rise above 85ish, egt runs 875, boost around 10-12. The only time it went above 2000 was to go to WOT for a minute or 2 when I was alone coming back in one day.
High idle 3020
The rpms are photo tacked against the vdo tach.
I have tested the hx while it off and no leakage
I have done my Aftercoolers as per your way 5 times in 9 years and 2000 hrs.
I have checked valve lash 4 times over that period.
I have a 10” dry swan kneck exhaust (maximum) with exhaust water exit down hill. Turbo outlet was in good condition, with no signs of water intrusion

The engine seemed to empty the expansion bottle over 6 or 7 years but the header stayed full until last year.

I seem to get good flow through exhaust at idle but I intend to change the impeller while I am down, it has been in 7 years (your pump was fitted in 2010)

Paul

[Paul Hampton]

It looks like parts 11 and 12 from the assembly drawing Rob S posted earlier in the thread

Paul

[Paul Hampton]

David,

i will do that when I get home. I have a clamp on ammeter here at work

———

Many thanks for the input and guidance fellas, I will follow this up with a wiring diagram and v&A readings.

Kindest Regards

Paul.

[Paul Hampton]

Thank again Tony.

any thoughts on whether I should upgrade or stay with what I have, given the house battery capacity.

regards

Paul

 

[Paul Hampton]

Rob,

thanks, I take it they are on a keyway.

David

thanks, yes the big mothers, just fitted them and yes the capacity is there, but I was looking at fast charge options at idle for if I need it. Electrics are spot on.

But since I spent a fair amount on hopefully good batteries, do I start looking deeper into battery management, leaving the batteries fully charged state and try to look at a maximum % of discharge, say 20-30% before topping them up to 100%. I not sure what consumption I have, 2xplotters, radar,5 kW heater, stereo, nav lights, deck lights, ais, saloon lights, etc, say 15-20 amp.

I have no electricity on my mooring and I am away 6 weeks at a time that’s another factor I am looking at, to try and ensure I can top them up at the dock.

But do i need to upgrade, maybe not, should I upgrade, maybe not, will I upgrade that comes down to expert opinions and advice.

thanks again

Paul

[Paul Hampton]

Thanks again Tony,

Sorry I missed your earlier post, I understand your comment on getting a balance, I put the 200amp out of the equation because of your comments one time on BD. I don’t have diode isolators

The curves you posted which I looked at, do show a nice improvement on the 22si

I  focused on the 28si, 180amp, because of the BD comments, hoping that would not be detrimental on the belt load. Even if the 28si 180amp was suspect then I would drop down to the 160amp. That brings the 24si into the equation I suppose. I am liking the 28si 180amp tho……

I hope the nut on the pulley is too much problem to get off, do they install the nuts with Loctite thread lock or anything, I suspect not, but thought I would ask.

Thanks again

Paul

 

 

[Paul Hampton]

Hi guys,

thanks very much for your time and responses, it’s  much appreciated.

my batteries are Trojan L16H, 2x6v, 12v @ 435amp. This choice was based on UK availability, weight, size and capacity.

Rob,

Thanks, I didn’t look at the 24si 160amp, I was focused on the 28si 180 amp then as an option 28si 160amp if there were any problems with the 180amp giving grief on the belt, tensioner, belt squeal or something.

—————-

Tony

Thanks, i am overseas at work, so I will post a diagram to follow up on this.

i can’t remember exactly how I have it, I need to look at the sense wire and the idiot light I installed to give a definitive diagram.

—————–

David,

thanks, I have 435 amp and could well have the capacity with the current 22si but I am thinking the 28si would be better and while I’m in a position to splash the cash,….. would it? I’m not sure, keeping in mind the 2x agm starting batteries charge requirements, then switching to house battery charging via the dvsr.

On The starting side, she starts instantly, looking at the nasa monitor voltage drops to around 10-10.5 volts, if I recall.

I don’t and can’t go down the route of mods for a bigger alternator, l am looking for a plug and play type.

———————-

The engine idles at 650 rpm (photo tach), sweet as, I don’t know what the alternator rpm is, I intend to photo tach that when I get out of this hell hole, but I was comparing the outputs curves of the 22si v 28si at alternator rpm of 2000. those 2 curves compared at that rpm looks like a nice increase in amps in a shorter time and low engine rpm,s.

if I go down this upgrade route, do you guys have any tricks/tips on changing the pulley over, or is it straight forward.

thanks again,

Kindest Regards

Paul

 

[Paul Hampton]

Thanks for the reply Tony,

I thought as much, but I thought I,d check.

I’ll look into a cummins filter head if available to fit my engine. The way the USD is with GBP and postage makes it costly purchase from seaboard at the moment.

 

thanks again

Paul

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