[Stephen Oliver]

I see no reason that it cant be done.. if you can get a compressed air source and make up a seriers of hoses and blanking caps to suit. It may be easier to remove and do tho.. <br /><br />I have an air input hose with shut off valve, gauge and compressor connection which is sized to go on the water outlet or inlet on the aftercooler (as its a smaller hose). the other end i have another hose that is plugged. I add air to about 30psi shut off the valve and leave it. There shoud be no drop in pressure. I leave it for 24 hours. I occasionally get a small leak but its usually my fittings or one of the screw in fittings in the aftercooler. Soapy water finds it easily. Once I have done that I test the air side.. with a different set of hoses. <br /><br />For future it also easier to test the core assembly first too. any leaks are found so you dont have to dissassemble. You still need to test the whole assembly but then you know its the housing or similar. Hope that makes sense. I’m just off out so will see if i can dig out some pictures later. Steve 

[Stephen Oliver]

There is a condensate drain that is usually plugged, however I’d suggest if it’s spraying water out you have bigger issues. When was the last time aftercooler was pulled, stripped completely and reassembled the seaboard way and pressure tested? It could be passing seawater via a leaky core or the housing could be split, orings could be bad… Etc etc. They are a weak point of these engines, but once serviced the seaboard way and pulled every 2 years (longer with fresh water flush) they are easy to maintain…

 

Steve

1 user thanked author for this post.

YachtInt.

[Stephen Oliver]

Thanks Mark

I’m contemplating making something using the standard 6bt pump or equivalent (SMX, DJP etc) , so the maths required is less haha.. its flange mount which is easily replicated and i seem to recall it makes to difference which way it spins.. so by removing the gear of the 1730 (or equivalent) replacing with pulley i’d be essentially doing the same thing but without using a stock pump.. (which on the 4bt seems a bigger headache than the sherwood 1730)

If the stock pump crank to pump ratio is 1:1, then I would also suggest a decent flexible coupling could be used to drive direct from the damper? However I’m not too familiar with these types of things.. so dont know if it would effect the crank significantly. By the looks of it making a bracket wouldnt be too hard and could be mounted either side of the block to get a centrally mounted pump? I do like the belt drive idea though.. What are your thoughts?

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

hmmm from what I can see the PTO is 1:1 to crank… so if I used the standard type pump i could essentially run it 1:1 belt ratio with all standard items and it should run the same.. give or take.. can anyone confirm this gear ratio? I’m assuming a direct drive with a soft coupling would be out of the question?

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Thanks Guys

I knew I had seen something somewhere regarding this. Not sure I have the skills or time to fab such a kit though 🙁

I’m also not 100% sure i’d have the space where this is located in front of the engine as the strainers are there.. but i guess this can be flipped from side to side..

Is the 4bt the same as the 6bt at this end of the block? I’d guess fron Tonys drawings in that thread that they are.. now I wonder if the gear could be pulled of the standard  pump and replaced with a toothed pulley? Anyone happen to know the pump ratio as standard? (i assume 6bt may be different?) I really only need to do this to the port engine.. and its worth hours of time saving… from the time I have to spend changing impellers. I’ve done the SB side at sea after an impeller split.. the Port – no chance.. not even if i was 5 stone and 4ft.. 

Thanks for some inspiration

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Tony If I remember right we get to 2850rpm with clean bum and loaded per usual – so not overpropped terribly in ‘normal’ conditions. But we could probably do with an inch taking out.. This is a new issue not an existing one. This is not normal in the sense of end of season – wierd growth year – hull doesnt normaly get dirty but it is..  and more a question of what else could be wrong beside the turbo, given the engine was running nicely at low speeds (sub2k). I know the turbo issue is my making, by keep on putting off the inevitable exhaust design and manufacture. Unfortunately there are few companies here that can do such and even fewer that can do it well. I can design and draw it.. i just dont have the fab skills. The only place i’d probably use is 3000miles plus away on the other side of Aus so makes it a bit more difficult.. This is compounded by having limited room for changing mufflers and limited head room (should be able to get about 8-10″ of rise though) for decent risers..  Thanks Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Sorry I didn’t word that well.. I mean typical black smoke when a deisel is overloaded. We aren’t over propped as we don’t normally have any smoke or have a faint barely visible smoke toward the end of the season down to the growth.. apologies for that..

[Stephen Oliver]

Thanks Tony I did and now I know it was what I was looking at anyway (Weld els)

Agree on the hand picture.. 

Final question – Any thoughts on using 3 or 3.5″ pipe for the dry section? Could save me some space and get a bit more height.. 

Steve

1 user thanked author for this post.

1969Roamer46

[Stephen Oliver]

Tony

Thanks – I will do with measurements – once I can get to the boat as the walkway to our section collapsed 2 months ago and getting to the boat is hassle now.. I’m just getting prepped for doing the work over our winter.

I’m currently 3d printing the pipe sections (doing 45 deg segments so 2 make a full 90 deg) based on 4″ SH10 pipe so I can mock something up and know it fits… I’m hoping to get away with simple, maybe 3 90’s welded and then to the shower… Headroom is measured in Inches.. not feet! Possibly 9-10″ from turbo outlet centre on the stbd side and possibly 10-12″ on the Port side.. Its not going to be safe in your favourite terms.. but its going to be a hell of a lot better than it was with Std Elbows. Are there any options to use 3 or 3.5″ pipe for the dry section or is this too restrictive (6bta 330)

Never heard of WeldEls.. but now i have and now I know 🙂 Thanks… that is what I was looking at anyway. Thanks for the info on the insulation.

Rob – A picture paints a thousand words eh? Thanks – gives me some reassurance i’m not going to have to fireproof the timber 🙂

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

I use 1 group 31 (i think or the Aus equivalent) Bosch S4 batteries rated at 1100cca so within 6bta spec per engine. 

If you want to save weight.. what are you using as a house bank? I just replaced 175kg of lead with 28kg of Lifepo4 and have more total capacity. <br /><br />Re lithium for starting, its specialist and they need huge BMS’s to deal with current. They will also no doubt burn your altenator out unless you have external regulation with lithium profile and limiting of current. Lithium will suck up all they can.. example my BMS is 250a and i can charge to 250 with no issues. The batteries will charge at 1c (326amps) happily so i could easily burn my alternators out even though they are 105a each.. hence i have DC2DC chargers in between the alternator and lithium (via the crank battery)

Steve

 

 

[Stephen Oliver]

Notwithstanding that Tony is THE MOST EXPERIENCED person you will find…..

That intercooler core is not in wonky.. as has been mentioned.. someone has tried to get it out.. probably using a big hammer.. or a tool not suited (ask me how I know)

I ended up having a friend press the cores out when I purchased the boat.. with a 100t press. He made a tool to fit the cores which I now have… The cores were so well stuck and I did such a poor job of trying to remove one of them, they were damaged. A local company who specialise in  industrial intercoolers and aftercoolers repaired them for me at a fraction of the cost of new ones. They were not as damaged as yours though. I’d suggest that you will be up for at least new cores.. and no idea what condition the housing would be in.. Condensation / leakage cause the aluminium housing to fuzz up and lock the cores in place. Its a game of frustration and patience to get them out.

They need removing properly – inspecting – repairing / replacing – refurbing etc. They need assembling exactly as Tony demonstrates on this site using the exact procedure and grease etc. They then need pressure testing at 25+psi ( I do it for 24 hours per side) with pretty much zero loss. The cores can be tested individually too.. but I test the whole thing instead. Do it right and do it every 2 years in salt water.. if you dont have fresh water flush.. its not a hard procedure.. once they have been maintained correctly but it will save some serious dollars along the way.. the sad thing is there are not many ‘professionals’ that would do this.. 

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Tony

Thanks that is my next step.. I was just trying to establish if there are any common spots.. from my research it looks like the whole engine is game! Will clean it up and get the pads in.. 

J Dragon

Thank you also.. Not the turbo as freshly o’hauled and the drain line is new also. Its not the rear main as its too far away from the gearbox flange.. however definitly will investigate valve covers and oil pan as this seems very common.. appreciate the ideas. I’ll clean it up and get some pics.. once I have time to get there.. 

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Brandon.. wow that makes me cry.. only $950!

I’m sure Tony would be able to come up with something to get some rise.. I have about as much water clearance too. I have put drains on my mufflers to help short term, but actually seems to cause more issues as air can circulate now and moves moist air up to the turbos! I’m going to try and get something done this year.. but I suspect i will need new custom mufflers too..

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

If you find a good turbo shop they should be able to machine the housing, possibly sleeve the outlet, machine the face and make good at a lower cost than a new turbo. In Aus, it costs me around 1200aud for this, and about 3k for a new turbo..

The issue will be your exhaust design (look at tonys extensive archive on doomed to fail exhausts.. ) letting water to the turbos. I know cause I have the same issue and very little room to do anything about it.. 🙁

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

and as an update.. redid everything.

Pressure test failed. Dropped about 1psi per hour from 25psi on the water side, so pressurised the air side (larger volume) and sealed off the water side, and it equalised the pressure, so definite leak from the core. Tested the core by itself and its a teeny tiny leak (a few teeny bubbles in dishsoap water per seccond) so may have just fractured a solder joint knocking the core out (I need to press them out – i think a tool is needed!)

So off to get the core resoldered.. 🙁

Steve

1 user thanked author for this post.

John

[Stephen Oliver]

If a bolt has snapped your turbos are stuffed.

I had issues with my port engine (6bta 330) lagging a bit and the throttles being uneven when I bought it..

It would get up on the plane and go ok but the throttles had me puzzled. An elbow started leaking so I pulled the old to put the new one on and was horrified and baffled how it could still operate.

See pictures of how much abuse they can take..

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Thanks Rob

Shouldnt be too much of a pain if using the putty as I can smear it in.. and the tolerances there are ‘loose’ to say the least. The face that meet the core ends is fine this is about 1/2″ up from there.. and not ‘critical’ surface.. i’m just trying to prevent corrosion.. and also stop more fur growing which seems to be what jams the core in… It strikes me that these things should be coated internally for longer life!

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Hi Tony

The turbo is with the turbo guy so I cant get a picture. I know its damp, whether air or water.. its my fault and I accept full responsibility for not fixing the crap exhaust design in the time I have had.. Even if I had a picture you would tell me its water, fix the exhaust 🙂 Ive read and been around the forum to know its wrong and needs fixing, my business, 4 year old and everything stops me from fixing it properly – for now! This year I will get it done!

Do you have any views on ceramic coating? Have you tried it at all?

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Well i’m trying to reply but it wont let me.. try again – Looks like it wont let me quote people.. oh well another bug..

OK Rob

I had a big reply typed out and the system ‘Block’ wiped it out. So i’ll try again..

I probably didnt explain my self well enough – My 6 AGM house bank died, so I am replacing the house bank with Lithium (1x 326ah battery – equivalent to more than the 6agms capacity wise) Crank batteries are already in place (bosch S4) and were feeding the house bank via one way VSRs from each crank to the house battery bank. In replacing the AGMs with lithium I am removing the VSRs and replacing with DC2DC chargers. My enquiry was over what should be connected where. So I have gone..

1, 24 hours circuits – Bilge pumps etc – Lithium – More capacity
2, Windlass – Crank Battery – only use it when engines are running and cranks are good at delivering large current intermittently.
3, Bridge – Running from Lithium – the engine instruments are all powered by the harness – the rest on the bridge will be from house – House system is completely isolated from the Engine systems.

Hopefully that makes sense?

Phil

Yes you are correct different charge process etc. I have attached my wiring diagram so hopefully it makes sense. The lithium take as much charge as they can get so if left unchecked they will burn the alternators out. My new battery can take 326a of charge continuously, but the Battery management system (BMS) limits it to 250a. Even both of my alternators couldnt keep up with it if they tried, so I have replaced the VSR’s with DC2DC chargers. Makes the system very simple. The only small complexity is the addition of ignition activated relays on the DC2DC input as I have a small crank battery charger to float charge the cranks when at dock for periods of time. Without the relays the DC2DC chargers would be pulling the cranks down to 12.8v all the time the chargers were on.

Word of warning on the lithiums – make sure the BMS is capable of dishing the current out that you need. or if multiples are used their combined output is suitable. Lots to like though.. 150kg weight saving and 6 batteries worth of storage as I have shoved my battery behind a sofa in the cabin. – the one battery weights 28kg and cost about 30% more than replacing the AGM. It was bought from a place in VIC and i’m pretty impressed. If you need to know more feel free to DM me..

Steve

[Stephen Oliver]

Gary Goddard wrote:

Hi Tony

Attached is the R&D Mounts available in Australia. Hopefully the image uploads

Regards

Gary

Gary

I have jus ordered and received my second set of mounts from Tony. SBMar do their own, not sure if they have one to suit your engine. But I think they go lighter than the 6BTA.. so should have something. First set are great.. second set will make the boat very smooth.. as only one engine has been done 🙂 Yes they cost a fair bit from the US, but still cheaper than here in Aus.. should get them landed for under $1000aud (you better hope you do as UPS chase the money now!)

Steve

1 user thanked author for this post.

Gary Goddard

[Author]

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