[Roger Franklin Williams]

I understand now forgot about the core-ring. What size is the rubber coupling?

Thanks for sharing.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Looks great. What does the end of the core seal against up end the rubber pipe coupling, also coupling size? The outer rubber does not clampdown tight are it would damage the fins correct and not seal?

[Roger Franklin Williams]

I do have SBM 1730 pumps. I have changed impellers many times on my pair of 6BTA’s. I get as much of the fuel cooler plumbing out of the way as possible and wire tie it. P Eng easy. S Eng I either jack up 3/8 to 1/2″ and remove the pump or I have changed without pump removal it’s very tricky and each time I swear and cuss never again. The SBM 1/2″ kit is the way to go.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

I have not installed 160 Stats yet will advise once I do.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Bill Stenger

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Have 2-1998-5.9 BTA’s fresh water only, have always run 190-198 D if running over 2400 RPM, not often, over the last 17 yrs. All systems completely serviced several times and verified but it has never made any difference. I just bought SBM’s 160 D thermostats as I do not like running that close to overheating temps. I seem to think I read on here at one point Tony said those temps are not an issue except for minimal margin for overheat temp safety.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Chuck I posted with PICS on this site and Boat Diesel site about this problem. I would recommend you search and read those post. My twin Cummins 1998 6BTA’s had about 650 hrs when one engine dropped the pin and it ruined the timing gear case. The inspection due to an oil leak found case cracked 11 o’clock position with the metal pushed out from inside the case. It had to be replaced all in $1000-1200 repair if I remember. The other engine pin was half way out of the mounting hole when I checked it. I installed kits. Engines have 2200 hrs today no further issues. I was very lucky as some engines were totally destroyed if the 1/4″ SS Pin lodged in the gears under load. My gear case looked just like the damaged ones you see in the web articles. I was told then and recently this issue did not affect the Marine engines but it did for some. Heard of one more in my area saw a post are two also. If the pin mounting guide hole is drilled all the way through the cast case, only way to know is a visual check then there is that possibility. I was told but never confirmed Cummins did change the design of the gear case casting at some point. Kits are probably not required but a good HT Silicone probably works just as well. At the time Cummins would not admit to the problem even though the Web showed a number of destroyed truck engines but did say they had heard of using the silicone fix.

Good Luck!

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Rob, I am verifying tachs which where serviced a few years ago. Right now best is around 2850. So I may need to take out an 1″ but will wait till I get tachs confirmed and going to haul clean and paint in next few months.

Guess my question may be that the larger tabs seem to make the boat plane easier at slower RPM’s I have assumed the load on the engines is reduced?

What do you think?

[Roger Franklin Williams]

I would like input from others. Have the same 6BTA’s on 24,000 lb cruiser. I have installed 2-12×12″ additional trim tabs years ago. Boat comes up on plane easily at 16-1700 RPM hull clean boat light to 19-2000 RPM needed hull dirty or boat loaded. I seem to think the extra trim tab area results in less strain on the engines. I have increased the trim tab area on all my boats for the past 40yrs. as they seem to perform much better.

I can only get WOT 2950 with a clean hull. The creek area I am in and after using the best bottom paint, tried many, still get considerable soft growth in 6 months after cleaning.

I understand repitching props but also believe the tabs make a big difference as well?

Comments?

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Yes more are less every 3-4 years. House Deep Cycle is normally 3 yrs as they are working off the inverter. Service twice a year clean and use distilled water only. My inverter is a multi-stage charger so it keeps them charged with out over charge. My older onboard charger stays off unless I have gone through a real deep discharge. Then its on only until batteries are at full charge then off. As Rob said better deal unless hard to get to.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Use 2-8D’s for house with inverter on a 42′ Cruiser and 2-31’s for T-6BTA’s 15 years ago works great. Have to replace every 3-4 years. All wet cells never found any of the considerably more costly Solid or Gel to be a good investment. Separate Gen battery.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Jim, 6BTAs and replaced my pumps with SMX years ago. Sold old pumps on eBay outside US. All I have done is use a large piece of wood laying on hull piece of 4×4 on top of that remove top MM nut small Hydojack engine up 3/4″. That worked for me. Have used that procedure to take the pump off to replace impellers also.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Dan I have installed 50+ New AC units over the years and to make sure we could keep the AC pump flooded after filter cleaning on some units we installed a T value on pressure side of AC pump to back flush pump with boat wash down or dock side water system for priming as needed.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Jason Leslie

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Sorry Levin I did not look close enough at your pics. Follow Tony’s advice. However i have been able to get to the tight port SMX pump correct bolts by jacking engine for install/removal. On Starboard I do not remove pump normally and push fuel line out of the way.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Using a small hydraulic jack set on a piece of wood large as possible to distribute the load against the hull loosen the top nut only on the motor mount. Jack the engine 1/2” and you can get to that bolt. Have used this method a number of times. Seaboard marine also makes an adapter that you might want to investigate for the next time.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Scott I have done a number of these also. I use a couple of wide wire ties and after getting the impeller started into the housing with lots of grease I cut the wire ties off as needed and push the impeller up into the housing. I find this to be a very easy method. With accessibility old hands and arms this method works best for me.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Have 1998, 6BTA’s with ZF transmissions. Docked 1 mile off Ohio River up a Creek and we encounter considerable small and large drift at various times of year. To prevent hull and prop damage requires considerable shifting in and out of gear and reverse at idle RPM’s. After reading this post curious if this shifting pattern is causing any excessive wear be on normal shifting wear?

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Easiest way, I have changed dozens is the bolt pulls impeller out. On reinstall use lots of lube and I pull vanes together using 2-3 wires ties around the impellar to reduce its size. Snip them off as you push impellar into pump housing. For sure clean up the pump before reinstall.

2 users thanked author for this post.

Kevin Wells, Alain planas

[Roger Franklin Williams]

On a 40′ Bayliner Avanti 6BTA’s I did this years ago and use 2-31’s for engines and 2-4Ds marine wet cells for house with inverter. As a guy at cummins said one time when i asked do i need seperate 8D’s for each engine he said not if their going to start. Have never had a problem but also installed a cross over switch just in case I need to combine house and engines.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Engines 2000 Hrs. Found stiff spring inside throttel lever mechanism was actually broke. Could not see this without removing lever for close inspection. Replaced lever works like new.

[Roger Franklin Williams]

Any ideas on below info?

Given I will at this time continue using the PYI’s and I have installed a small value to restrick water flow I still get small water leakage spray above 2000 RPM’s.

I did measurements from front of engine to bulkhead at idle and at 2000 RPM no engine movement observed.

Does engine move slightly at high torque to allow shaft to move maybe a few thousands and open up face of seal from rotor allowing leakage? 20 yr. old motor mounts look good and show no signs of wear or movement. Boat runs smooth at all speeds.

Thanks!

[Author]

Replies