I tried the above with no change so I will send you the unit to you to see if you can figure it out.
On any of the recent ign power up there is no boot process. Just the screen shot I sent before.
There is no response once ignition is on. Unable to switch modes for rpm, temp, etc. And it is locked on the same screen showing tank status which hasnāt been working for some time now. I canāt confirm if if was not working before I started my annual mantinence, racor,impeller, filters and oil , zinks etc but it has been fine all season so I believe I may have disrupted a connection but all appear to be intact.
I realize elec issues can be uncertain and do appreaciate your time to reply
John Maybeck
Sorry
Meant smart craft display
Thanks Corey,
We run the boat 2 -3 times a week and it doesn’t sit for more than 1 week or 10 days during the season.
At the end of the season I flush with fresh water for 10 minutes or so then run the antifreeze thru for the winter lay up.
Re: heat exchanger
What do I look for and can it be inspected by just removing the end caps or should it be removed completely ? If I do remove it , what should I look for and what can I do to remedy any concerns.
Thanks Rob,
It’s not a manner of $ and or access. Just thought to try a simpler approach for a temporary fix. I will replace the entire run @ 5 ‘ when I have a chance to get the hose and the time. In the mean time I will p/u a piece of Shields 200 non-wired 8″ and trim it down and clamp accordingly. Thanks for you input.
I referred to the exhaust tube when I meant the hose. There are some very small cracks on top of the hose which I have wrapped to keep any water that may leak out. Is there a way to cut out and replace a section instead of replacing the entire length?? The rest of the hose is in good condition. The hose is original in 08′ with maybe 800 hrs.
Thanks Corey,
I understand the voltage requirements needed to excite the alternator but I don’t understand why the alternator will wake up once the RPM reaches higher levels which is fine as it then starts to charge the batteries. There is a bayonet connector on the isolator marked ” IG ” which would suggest that it be connected to the ignition circuit and once closed would provide 12 v to the alternator to wake it up.
The peculiar thing is that the original engine , which failed at 675 hours did excite the alt at low rpm on initial start. All wiring stayed the same.