I have the same engines.Ā Look for the articles on this site about “marine age” and do some research.Ā Make sure you pull the aftercooler off and get it pressure tested and make sure the core is in good working conditionĀ BEFROE you purchase.Ā Should be about $450 to have it done.Ā If it needs replacing have the owner pick up that expense.Ā I’m sure the real experts on here will want to see really good pictures of the exhaust set up so I’d suggest you do that too. Good luck.Ā
I have the same engines, had a similar issue with engine temps not aligning.Ā Switched to 160 degree thermostat’s, problem solved.Ā Careful not to put them in backwards….Ā Ā
Did you put an IR gun on it to validate the heat? I have the same motors and when I got the boat I had a similar issue. Turned out to be the T-Stats. And as stated above put in 160’s if they’re not there now and it doesn’t sound like they are. That’s what they originally came with. Also, as stated above take off ALL the coolers, AC’s, Oil Coolers, HX’s and pressure test everything per Tony’s recommendations. Good luck,
I have the same motors. Treat them well and they’ll out live you. Arguably the best mechanical motors Cummins has made. I lost a transmission because my Hynautics we’re slipping but solved the problem with new Glendinning electronic controls. Good luck.
Iāll be back at the boat in a few days Tony and will get them uploaded.
It’s interesting that the company that did the work on the motor told you it would need “major” work. You’d think they would have fixed it the first time? And i have the same motors and have Airsep breather kits and never had an issue at all. Good luck.
I have the same motors with 160 T Stats. With an IR gun they run at about 172-175 degrees but as you’d expect the gauges hold at 160.
I’m not an expert by any stretch so hopefully someone who’s a hell of a lot smarter than me will chime in but IF coolant is coming out of your exhaust it means you might have a bad gasket seal between the cooling system and the intake/exhaust manifold, or the cylinder head/cylinder wall. If you open you coolant cap and smell exhaust that’s usually a sign of a blown gasket.
Remote Pump out is code for oil exchange system. I have one on my boat and it allows you to drain oil from each engine/gen when doing oil changes or need to pump oil out for some other reason. Get yourself a dentists’ mirror so you can “see” as well as feel.
I’d start with a pressure test. May be coming out of your exhaust.
Maybe instead of Cummins, ask some of your boat neighbors for mechanic recommendations who are familiar with your engine? Where are you located?
Congrats on the boat. Saltwater or fresh? I have the same motors and if you treat them well they’re bullet proof. That being said and IMO, get a mechanic whos familiar with those motors on the boat for your sea trial. You may need new coolant hoses, clamps, etc. I’d make the deal contingent on putting the AC’s on a bench per Tony’s recommendations. Should be about 450 each but the best insurance you can get. I did the same thing and one didn’t hold pressure and I made the seller pay for the replacement which was 3800. And that way you have a benchmark starting point. Rob and Tony are the true experts, along with many other folks on here so good luck. I literally pulled the coolers, heat exchangers and transmission coolers off the boat yesterday for a 2 year service. Ounce of prevention…Good luck.
Pt-45745225; Stbd- 45745144
I had a similar issue when I bought my Riv. one engine started getting hot (or I thought anyway) as RPM went above 1800. After checking the entire raw water system turned out to be a bad thermostat. Take an IR gun to it as well.
Here comes the stupid question, I have 6CTA’s, where does the 480CE come into play? I’ve never heard of my engines being prone to valve dropping as common place? Separate engines altogether?
I took my strainers out altogether, Riviera had a bad design to begin with, and opted for the design you’re referencing. Never had a problem.
Dash
Rob, here’s a pick of the dash. Essentially the dummy light is tied to the ignition which measures oil pressure and engine temp. Again, the 160TS essentially stay put on the gauges no matter what RPM I’m running the boat. My fear is that if there’s an overheat issues how would I know from up top if they both stay at 160. Thanks.
Tony, are saying his AC’s could have gone two more years because of the freshwater environment? I ask because I was going to take mine to you guys for a two year service. I’m in saltwater. Thanks and let me know.
Send pics. I guess start with the obvious. Is your sea cock open? Is your strainer clogged and is the lid on tight? Assuming you mean impeller when you say belt in the raw water pump? Is it bad/blades missing. When was the last time you had you HX’s serviced and new impellers put in? I’d say start with the raw water side of things. Most folks on here know a hell of a lot more than I do and will chime in I’m sure but I’d start there.
