[dnord2]

Theres a little bit of oil in each collection bottle.

[dnord2]

Previous I had the walker air-sep, I added this after reading your site. Just seemed like a good upgrade, and the boots and fittings on the old set up were hammered. 800 hour motors, nothing mechanically wrong with them. (other than this new leak.)

Thanks

[dnord2]

Thanks you da man! I asked LOTS of people what and where to get that with a lot of blank stares, thanks again. Ordered ✅

[dnord2]

Just to add to the conversation, my port motor recently had these symptoms. I took the turbo in for rebuild, and it was shot. Cracked housing, impeller, the list went on and on. It was cheaper to buy a new one than have this one rebuilt.

[dnord2]

Thanks Rob… I guess what I mean is, is it worth it to leave the dock once a month to run some heat through it. Or does it not really matter if it sits for 1 month or 3 months.

[dnord2]

Thanks for the reply, in my original pic you can see the drip like coming from the ATF reservoir. I guess its a Norscot shaft seal? The file photo attached is what it looks like. Ive done some more research, seems like the ATF would cool the bearing, so running it like this for extended periods would be asking for it.

[dnord2]

Thank you for the thorough response, I often wondered why you had to bleed a system when there is a small relief tube going from the radiator cap to the overflow bottle, seems like that would be self bleeding by design.

Anyway, the PORT engine is the one that rises and falls with engine temp. Last time out, I idled out at 1200 with the cap off. Right away the AF was being pushed out the cap slightly, just a constant dribble. I let it go to 170, then capped it off. What I thought was weird, was that the Starboard motor (the one where the coolant level stays relatively flat in the overflow tank), I took the cap off that one too during warm up, and that one WAS NOT dribbling out AF on the way out.

Starboard engine runs about 165-170, Port motor runs slightly warmer at about 175. I put 200 miles on the boat this weekend, maybe thats just where they like to run.

Thanks for the responses.

[dnord2]

Thanks Bill, good idea I’ll try that. (since swapping the intercoolers took the better part of my morning lol) this would have been easier.

Im also going to let it warm up with the cap off, to push some air out if there is any.

Thanks-

[dnord2]

Thanks Rob, mine did have the holes but there were miniscule piercings more than holes. I opened them up just a bit, I’ll report back if its still pushing oil. The o-ring fitting on top seems tight, so we’ll see.

Not sure what you mean by spill over height? Ive owned this boat for a year, so there has been much cleaning and servicing to get it to my liking but Im still working out a few gremlins. The exhaust side of the turbos were some what restricted when I took them apart, but have since been cleaned up. I had some other issues last summer where I had to drive around at low-mid RPM and I’m sure that didn’t help anything. Elbows looked surprisingly good inside and have since been pressure tested.

This is a 90% fresh water boat (NOW), but its lived its life in some salt for sure. Just addressing some of those issues-

[dnord2]

ok, thanks! Props it is!

[dnord2]

Thanks Tony, I expected that response lol. Following all your tips and tricks, even your advice is to make sure the engines are running properly before re propping. I’m totally ok with, Im just covering all the bases.

And back to my original question, is there a way to adjust high idle or just leave it. Im on the low side of your recommended normal. Re pitching my props 2″ isn’t going to help my boat in neutral lol

Thanks for the help-

[dnord2]

I haven’t plotted boost/egt, but gets on plane no sweat. I think there is less drama than I originally thought. I went out yesterday and got some tach verification and readings. Looks like WOT RPM is about 2580, not ideal but better than I thought it was.

Can high idle be adjusted? I’m only at 2900, MAYBE 2900 might be more like 28 something. I see there is a high idle adjustment screw on the linkage, can you turn that up?

Thanks in advance-

[dnord2]

So, can anyone tell me what normal boost readings should be on a 6CTA? Mine are at 28 psi

[dnord2]

Ive owned the boat for a year, not sure of its previous history. I guess what I’m looking for is what people are getting for boost at 2700 rpm. thx-

[dnord2]

No smoke, all the filters have been changed. The other day, I started digging into the throttle stop since they weren’t going to the stop with slight spring pressure. I though that might have been the problem, but that didnt help. If it did help, it wasn’t much. 2500 is all Im seeing out of both motors. 2 people, half tanks.

[Author]

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