[Brian Katz]

I know direct marine fuel was having some issues. May be out of the game. Things are very strange right now.

Either way put Vacuum gauges on your filters. Just as important as the gauges at your helm. Plenty of information on that here.

[Brian Katz]

Eric,

I hope you having more luck keeping your 6BT running. I high recommend installing a permanent vacuum gauge. I had a similar issue to you this season and like you my boat has fairly low hours which essentially means your not polishing your fuel enough. These engines pump a ton more fuel though the return than they use so they are always cleaning the fuel.

This was my first full season and had no issues till I ran the boat in a 3′ to 5′ chop which stirred any garbage laying in the bottom the starboard tank and quickly clogged my Racor. I didn’t have a no run issue but lost substantial power in rough water leaving me in a less than comfortable situation.

I didn’t have the gauges installed at the time but wish I had. I would have known right away that I was starving for fuel. I ended up drilling and tapping the ORB fitting at the filter housing installing an elbow with the gauge on top.

It’s since helped me to monitor the filter and tanks. Keep extra filters onboard at all times and change them based on vacuum and not randomly replacing these expensive elements as well as other parts.

Here’s pictures of my install. Maybe it will help you or someone else it a similar situation.

Good luck.

[Brian Katz]

Rob Schepis wrote:

It’s not that I “think” they will leak, it’s a known issue that they have and I have personally come across several that have leaked fuel. Sure, like anything else, that can be dealt with repaired/sealed or ?? but removing it removes the entire issue (or potential issue) altogether.

to add the pipe thread connections on the combiner block are inferior to the O-ring and JIC flare connections that are used downstream on the fuel supply and upstream on the fuel return. With the vibration and heat cycling the diesel works its way back through the thread.

[Brian Katz]

I see the issue.

[Brian Katz]

You have to carefully bend the tubing that’s between the banjo and hose crimp. It takes a little nerve to do it but a little at a time and you’ll find the clearance. Once the paint starts cracking you’ll know your committed.

The idea of getting the fuel supply off the combiner block is less leak points. Not the end of the world if you don’t but I was able to do it.

[Brian Katz]

I’d drill and tap the tops of the strainers and forget about the tees.

[Brian Katz]

Oops missed that…

Disregard my comment about the rpm but definitely take a look at those shops. I just used S&S and am satisfied with the workmanship. The proof will be this weekend when I get the boat out.

[Brian Katz]

If the she makes 2850 you hit the nail on the head for the most part as long as the boats not loaded too heavily after that. The engines rated for 2800 min and the target value around here is about 2925 fully loaded. IMO 2850 is not over propped as long as the boat is not overloaded.

Your two choices for prop shop on the Island would be Bossler & Sweezey in Bellport and S&S in Queens. I’ve used both and have confidence in both.

First things first service the aftercooler’s per Seaboard protocol and like Rob mentioned get an eye on the exhaust elbow.

[Brian Katz]

It’s a few weeks late but maybe someone looking for the information may come across it.

The plug size to remove the entire drain back line is 9/16 SAE or know as a -6 ORB plug. I bought one from my local hose and clamp shop but you can find them on Amazon or Ebay. Remove the line when you do an oil change and pan is empty.

Asking for a -6 ORB plug is probably the simplest way to describe it.

[Brian Katz]

Lot’s of Cummins powered boats here on Long Island. If you buy this boat or not just start reading the forums and Tony’s tips and puzzle pieces will start to fall in place. Propping and the raw water loop are a good place to start.

Good luck.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Brad Arrington

[Brian Katz]

I have the same send/sensor setup. I ended up leaving them on the combiner block just rerouting the fuel supply and return. It wasn’t a deal breaker for me but I did reseal the sending unit on one as it was leaking.

[Brian Katz]

I’m probably in the same boat as you experience wise. No pun intended.

What I pickup from the article is that if you are making (x)hp regardless of rpm you are going to need to burn a certain amount of fuel to do that.

When releasing that energy you create heat which causes EGT to rise but why?

It comes down to force x distance x time. Your asking your engine to process fuel to create a constant force aka (HP) over a shorter distance(less rpm) in the same amount of time. Stick with me.

Your engine needs to work harder to produce the power while traveling a shorter distance. The top end heats up causing excessive wear on the valve train, turbos, aftercooler, pistons etc… the force on the connecting rods and bottom end is also greater producing more wear over less distance.

Look at 500/2800 and 500/2000. At 2800 your engine is carrying much less “weight” per revolution.

I don’t talk about the prop because that’s constant in the equation.

I don’t think I’m too far off but I’ve been wrong before.

[Brian Katz]

I use a vacuum pump like this. It pulls a gallon at a time so I empty it into a five gallon bucket a few times. Nothing fancy but it works.

[Brian Katz]

How recent was the survey? I would expect the surveyor to give you a verbal run down of any issue post inspection. Maybe you should call him for clarification.

[Brian Katz]

Wow. That’s quite restriction. Thanks for sharing.

[Brian Katz]

The plug is 1/8″ npt. It’s located on the bottom of the coolant tube that runs parallel to the heat exchanger. Loose and tighten with a 7/16′ wrench.

You’ll get about 6 gallons out of the engine so be prepared to capture it or it’ll be all over the bilge.

[Brian Katz]

William Walter wrote:

My prop guy told me one time he uses galvanizing paint on his props.it is very high in zinc content and looks just like the petitt product when sprayed on.. saw it in Home Depot for about 5 bucks a can .wondering if anyone has tried it.Bill

I use cold galvanize spray. Basic rustoleum product available at most home centers.

I started using it 3 or 4 years ago. It seems to be the same as the zinc paints you would buy at West Marine without the price tag.

It creates an extra layer of protection and wears from the leading edge back. I personally have never had a barnacle grow on it.

I shoot the wheels and shafts. My struts, rudders, and tabs are bottom painted.

I boat in the NE where we don’t have the growth issues like down south so I can only speak from my experience.

1 user thanked author for this post.

William Walter

[Brian Katz]

Mike Pettee wrote:

This is my project in the coming weeks. This plugs the hose right? Not the pan itself?

I wonder if running that hose, splicing to the T on the envirovent would work to drain any oil back into the pan? Or if it would totally screw up the pressures….

My goal is to be able to remove the complete Walker Airsep hose and oil pan fitting. A 9/16 SAE(-6 ORB) plug will do that by threading into the factory installed oil pan adapter. I don’t need as I already have oil suction hoses and valves in place. That retrofit would be the only reason that I would keep it.

If you tapped that line for a drain back you would have to do that above the check valve. But IMO it’s eliminating one of the most important features of the Envirovent system. The ability to “see” your engines blow by. It’s a physical gauge of your engines health.

[Brian Katz]

Wow. I’m going to add you to my lucky guy list. Very lucky she didn’t hydro lock. I don’t know how common it is to bend a connecting rod in an engine like these but I think you got off pretty easy.

Good luck with the rest of the repair.

[Brian Katz]

To put the question to rest I had a bright idea and called Walker and asked. It turns out to be 9/16-18. The factory installed adapted is M18x1.5 male and 9/16-18 (-6 sae)female. This then leads to a 90degree -8 JIC. Just to be clear! As the old timers would say put that in your pipe and smoke it!

[Author]

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