Oil pan plug

[Brian Katz]

Good evening fellas,

In the process removing old airseps and installing my new Envirovents on my 330 Diamonds.

I’m going to remove the drain back hoses to the pans and need to plug the aft most drain bung in the pan. Looks to be M18x1.5 from the Cummins part diagram. Can anyone confirm that?

The coolant plug is npt as well as the combiner block(which is next to go.) I guess it’s just a mixed bag of fasteners.

On a side note cleaned up the front ends upgrading the idler pulley bolts. New 160 thermostats and checked all rotating parts. Serviced the heat exchangers. Was a productive weekend and went smooth after studying the forums and Tony’s Tips. Good stuff.

Here’s some pics.

Topic

[Mike Pettee]

That’s what I was thinking too.
Access to that plug is difficult in my setup, so I may just stick a bolt in the walker hose and clamp it.

[Brian Katz]

Mike Pettee wrote:

This is my project in the coming weeks. This plugs the hose right? Not the pan itself?

I wonder if running that hose, splicing to the T on the envirovent would work to drain any oil back into the pan? Or if it would totally screw up the pressures….

My goal is to be able to remove the complete Walker Airsep hose and oil pan fitting. A 9/16 SAE(-6 ORB) plug will do that by threading into the factory installed oil pan adapter. I don’t need as I already have oil suction hoses and valves in place. That retrofit would be the only reason that I would keep it.

If you tapped that line for a drain back you would have to do that above the check valve. But IMO it’s eliminating one of the most important features of the Envirovent system. The ability to “see” your engines blow by. It’s a physical gauge of your engines health.

[Mike Pettee]

This is my project in the coming weeks. This plugs the hose right? Not the pan itself?

I wonder if running that hose, splicing to the T on the envirovent would work to drain any oil back into the pan? Or if it would totally screw up the pressures….

[Brian Katz]

To put the question to rest I had a bright idea and called Walker and asked. It turns out to be 9/16-18. The factory installed adapted is M18x1.5 male and 9/16-18 (-6 sae)female. This then leads to a 90degree -8 JIC. Just to be clear! As the old timers would say put that in your pipe and smoke it!

[Rob Schepis]

I have not removed the insert so I cannot tell you for sure but if you remove the drain plug and the insert stays put why remove it. It should be locked in with loc-tite or something comparable.

[Brian Katz]

Rob Schepis wrote:

Brian Katz wrote:

I’m going to remove the drain back hoses to the pans and need to plug the aft most drain bung in the pan. Looks to be M18x1.5 from the Cummins part diagram. Can anyone confirm that?

Agreed. With the threaded insert to protect the aluminum threads.

So is the insert a m18 male thread with a female thread in it? Like a bushing? The m18 x 1.5 is a standard automotive drain plug. Can I just buy two and be done with it? Is it that straight forward? The current fitting looks like it’s ORB. The down side of not having a boat stored at my house anymore is I have to be 100% prepared when I load up for a work trip. As soon as I get the Wolverines on I’ll warm things up and change the oil too. Full of oil now that why I didn’t pull it out for inspection.

Yeah I’m in the honeymoon stage with this boat lol.

[Rob Schepis]

Brian Katz wrote:

I’m going to remove the drain back hoses to the pans and need to plug the aft most drain bung in the pan. Looks to be M18x1.5 from the Cummins part diagram. Can anyone confirm that?

Agreed. With the threaded insert to protect the aluminum threads.

Good stuff, thanks for the post and pics. And good for you to jump in head first with the new boat! It will all pay dividends for years to come (as you know)

[Author]

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