• Creator
    Topic
  • #68085

    Brad Fausett
    Participant
    Engines: 6bta 5.9 370hp
    Location: Cleveland, Ohio

    Hi guys, 6bta Cummins, i am installing Envirovent to stop my air breathers from puking oil… see the amount of oil that poured out upon removing air filter. Not sure how these engines were breathing.

    The walker sep had a small oil line On the very back, i believe it is an oil line draining back into the oil pan through a small filter. This kit came with no instructions. Just parts, I never like to see that but it seems pretty self explanatory. What am I doing with this line?? Kit has a cap for factory breather tube I believe. Help??

Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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  • #69410

    Brian Katz
    Participant

    Plug size

    It’s a few weeks late but maybe someone looking for the information may come across it.

    The plug size to remove the entire drain back line is 9/16 SAE or know as a -6 ORB plug. I bought one from my local hose and clamp shop but you can find them on Amazon or Ebay. Remove the line when you do an oil change and pan is empty.

    Asking for a -6 ORB plug is probably the simplest way to describe it.

    #68222

    Mike Pettee
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Cop-Out
    Engines: Cummins 370s
    Location: Big Pine Key, FL
    Country: USA

    The walker sep had a small oil line On the very back, i believe it is an oil line draining back into the oil pan through a small filter. This kit came with no instructions. Just parts, I never like to see that but it seems pretty self explanatory. What am I doing with this line?? Kit has a cap for factory breather tube I believe. Help??

    I just did an install on my 6bta. The back drain tube from the walkers needs plugged. Not an easy task ok my setup, do I left the house and plugged it with a bolt and clamp and zip tied it off and out of the way.

    The little black cap thing plugs the factory breather tube. It’s an easy install if you have the space. And it does work, especially at eliminating fumes. Easily my favorite upgrade I’ve done.

    Fwiw, then turbos on mine were much louder after install. A plus in my mind.

    #68122

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    You answered your own question…………

    “I assume a Napa may carry such a plug”. It’s the word “such” will be your figuring out what you need.

    Success on a engine modifications like this requires some “hand’s-on” effort this way as it never seems “one size fits all” on projects like this…………….If I was on the boat, it would be simple, but you are there and I am here ..You just have to figure it out, for lack of a better way to answer………..

    Tony

    #68113

    Brad Fausett
    Participant
    Engines: 6bta 5.9 370hp
    Location: Cleveland, Ohio

    Thank you tony, it appeared to be gone in the image but I was skeptical since the kit did not contain a plug. Seems odd to source that one part when everything else is included in the conversion kit. Would you mind sharing what size plug is needed? I assume a Napa May carry such a plug.

    #68112

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Remove that drain line complete and plug it–It is not used.

    You need to study the picture more..

    Tony

    #68111

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    3 amp, 10 Amp, whatever–That is the fuse. Remove it and the heater “software” control system is disabled. Put that circuit on a switch and now you have control.

    Tony

    #68104

    Brad Fausett
    Participant
    Engines: 6bta 5.9 370hp
    Location: Cleveland, Ohio

    From what I have found the line in question seems to be the drain line with the notorious sticking check valve. The kit seems to be complete with everything needed to do this job, including wire ties so I’m thinking this line is not to be capped off. Maybe I’m supposed to loop it back to the factory vent pipe and not cap that one? I’m sitting bye waiting for direction, I certainly do not want to do anything wrong.

    #68099

    Brad Fausett
    Participant
    Engines: 6bta 5.9 370hp
    Location: Cleveland, Ohio

    Also, just Installed wolverine pad heaters too. You mention removing 10amp blade fuse to disable grid heater, the only One I can find behind aftercooler is a purple 3 amp blade fuse. Pretty sure this is that connection. Everything lines up, is there a 3 amp back there and I am missing the 10amp?

    #68094

    Brad Fausett
    Participant
    Engines: 6bta 5.9 370hp
    Location: Cleveland, Ohio

    Hi tony.

    See attached. I am servicing aftercooler currently. Came apart easily.

    Yes I have the front cover filter.

    I read what I could find, but nothing I found addresses this line from the back of the walker air sep.

    The line is blue, disconnected in the pic and runs to back if oil pan, appears to have a small filter. What am I doing with this, or did i just blatantly miss this in your articles.

    While you are here, this look decent on turbo. There is no play in the shaft. It’s tight.

    #68092

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    #1—–Stand back a few feet and let me “SEE” your entire “engine installation”‘

    Focus on the old Walker system , turbo , etc.

    #2——–Have you looked at all of the installation pics we have put together for our Envirovents?

    #3.– Are you doing a “timing cover” install?

    Tony

Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)

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