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May 27, 2021 at 11:05 am #115670
yes. details here:
I see 6-7 psi at 2300rpm cruise on a Sherwood GC5 pump. Barely registers at idle
May 25, 2021 at 6:05 am #115509Jimmy –
my experience with the sbmar 160deg thermostat in my 6BTA 250hp is that it starts to open at 160 and will settle there at no-wake speeds (“idle-under-load”) either during warmup or after coming off plane. At cruise speeds it’ll go to 175-180deg depending on the water temperature, which means the tstat is fully open and I’m running at the limit of the cooling system when Chesapeake Bay temps reach 85+ in the summer. (the 6B250s had 1.5″ raw water plumbing and not a lot of margin, plus my raw water side is due for a cleaning.)
Francis is correct- extended idling at the dock is to be avoided, but many of us spend lots of time at trolling or no-wake speeds. All thermostats I’ve installed seem to settle around the rated ‘opening’ temp at 650-900rpm. BTW, I’ve found that t-stats of even the same make & rating can respond very differently, but both of yours seem to be consistent.
March 22, 2021 at 6:51 am #112109I installed an outboard-style water pressure gauge to monitor impeller condition, but should also indicate any plugging trends in the system. Runs about 5-6 psi at cruise.
September 28, 2020 at 10:03 am #104400Kurt – 6BTA 250Hp JWAC of that vintage probably uses the Sherwood GC-4 or GC-5 raw water pump (1.5″ hose). Tony’s SMX Super 15 impellers fit them and are better than the original. Pictures would confirm like Tony says.
August 21, 2020 at 5:32 pm #102759Here is my setup, installed on a Sherwood GC5 pump. It uses the existing pressure-side tap, which the Sherwood drawing calls a drain plug but which the Cummins manual indicates as the test point for raw water pressure (book is 15 psi max; no minimum specified). Donald is probably right that a true flow sensor at the farthest downstream point is better, but this seemed easier and cheaper than a flow measurement device. I think I got the kit for less than $100 including tube and fitting. The lowest scale I could find was 30 psi, which seemed like it would do.
I abandoned the Vetus alarm display, which was dim and weak, and drilled a hole in the pressure gauge trim ring for a tiny 12V LED (still too dim) and connected a 12V siren from eBay, which even behind the dash console was so deathly loud that I wrapped it in foam. It gets your attention. I had installed the Vetus sensor years ago farther down the exhaust hose than I recalled (~3 ft?), but you don’t want it any closer to the elbow since during the Chesapeake dog days the water temperature can be 90F, when the alarm will still trigger after coming off plane and idling in for awhile.
I haven’t thought much about how to monitor the water pressure until now. I figured I’d get a baseline with a new impeller and fairly clean raw water circuit and be able to tell by a pressure drop if I sucked up a plastic bag or weed in the strainer, or the impeller starting going bad. I guess it would also indicate a restriction or gradual occlusion upstream in the raw water circuit by a pressure increase. Anyway it seemed like an additional layer of prevention. Don’t ask me how I know how important raw water flow is LOL!
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August 20, 2020 at 11:45 am #102699Like firehoser, I have 2 raw water indicators: a Vetus exhaust alarm temperature sensor just downstream of the mixing elbow and an outboard-type water pressure gauge feeding from the raw water pump 1/4″ NPT pressure tap. The temperature sender gives a “light and buzzer” alarm and the water pressure gauge lets me monitor the impeller and general raw water system health for peace of mind.
I actually installed an LED and loud-as-hell 12V oscillator siren for the temp sensor within the raw water gauge, so all fits into a single 2″ hole in the dash cluster.
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