[Robert McManus]

test response

[Robert McManus]

We had the Cummins Rep aboard the boat yesterday.  We told him of the lightning strike near the boat while it was in the lift. We told him of Glendenning’s repair to the EEC-3 control computer that required 3 boards to be replaced, rebooting the ECM and SIM that cleared the J39 SIM alarm.  Now we have the “123 Lows Boost” alarm on the SmartView. We told him we replaced the 3971106 boost pressure/temperature sensor that had no effect.  We also noted that the SmartView was showing 0.3PSI for the boost pressure (both old and new sensors) when the engine was not running. 

He hooked up the laptop and ran the engine.  The program detected multiple faults on the “Sensor Supply 2” bus.  He also saw that the Rail Fuel Pressure (#5297641) was reading 17,390 psi when the engine was running and not running.  When he disconnected the Rail Fuel pressure sensor the Boost Pressure went to a normal reading of 0.0 PSI with the engine not running.  Additionally, the ground in the Sensor Supply 2 circuit cleared.  We got a new 5297641 Rail Fuel Sensor, installed it. The new Rail Fuel sensor cleared the boost pressure alarm, we now had normal boost pressure readings, normal fuel rail pressure readings and the Sensor Supply 2 faults all cleared.  We did a sea trial at 100% load and achieved rated speed of 3000 RPMs with normal temps and pressures.

[Robert McManus]

Actually, we held off on getting into it until after Sword season here in VaBeach.  I did try with my siz point socket a few more times without going crazy on the torque be it didn’t feel good.  I think I’m going with Mark Tripi method above to ensure I have something to grab with a vice grip or pipe wrench. My Dremel saw should work on the bolt heads between the head and the washer so as not to gouge the flange.  I don’t want the bolt breaking off in the turbo casing which will make the “20 minute” job really unpleasant.

[Robert McManus]

thought it was the rise on the seawater into the exhaust. back to the boat.

checked- boat on even keel- no list.

drop from exhaust elbow inlet going outboard to aft run was approx 7″ +/- 1/2″

[Robert McManus]

closely looking at the boat in the lift she is up by the bow between 6″-12″ over her 35′ length.

“hose2.jpg” is measuring with square vertical.  3-1/4″

“hose4.jpg” is measuring with square perpendicular to the deck- 3″

My guess is this is the range when stopped in the water.

 

 

[Robert McManus]

water line trim fore and aft is pretty “level” when on the lift, slightly down by stern. Exhaust transom penetrations are about 1/3-1/2 submerged when in water along side dock depending on fuel load.  

the scum line shows minor port list- I think that was when we had a full water tank which is on the port side.

[Robert McManus]

about a year ago I had a seawater leak aft of the engine that may have caused some of the corrosion.   Attached are few new pics.  one shows elbow and outboard  leading exhaust. I’d guess there is a 2″ drop from elbow outlet to the turn and aft run for the exhaust. On another note- I’d discovered I had too many 10mm six-point sockets (yah- go figure) so I carefully ground one socket down, taking off about 1/4″ in height so it and the 1/4″ breaker would fit on the bolts. I’m continuing to soak them and buying some Kroil to continue the soak as there no rush. PS boat is generally kept in a lift.

[Robert McManus]

starting this weekend I’m applying a little heat and more penetrant.  On my ship we screwed up on an order and ended with a butt load of bee’s wax. too bad it’s in the Indian Ocean.

[Robert McManus]

sorry, initial post had a picture but I see it’s not attached. anyway, here’s a couple. 

So the clearance is too tight for the Milwaukee and Dewalt 1/4″ ratchet and sockets I have. 

the Proto 6 point combination wrench I have feels like it wants to round off the head.  

[Robert McManus]

After retiring and setting aside more time to trouble shoot this problem I discovered that by disconnecting the “CP Enable” plug on the EEC3 the stop button functions worked correctly.  When I spoke to Mr. Parish at Glendinning he diagnosed that it was likely a failed diode on the EEC3 motherboard which allowed the port and starboard ignition circuits to cross feed. 

I setup an RMA with Glendinning, returned the unit to their SC factory.  They returned the unit with the new motherboard in about 10 days. As part of their repair they had to re-program our EEC3 unit for the engines I have (provided them with serial numbers).  When we received the repaired unit it was a straight up “plug and play.”   Our engine stop buttons now worked correctly.  The Smart Craft displays also functioned normally in that they shut off when the stop button was depressed and cycled back on as long as the ignition key was “on”.

 

Sorry for not closing this out earlier

2 users thanked author for this post.

1969Roamer46, willyok

[Robert McManus]

Old ones were from SB Mar and installed in Feb 2019. I ordered new ones from the SBMAR site a few days ago (SKU: HX-GK5KIT). I’ll plan on doing them with the zincs annually.

As previously mentioned they weren’t leaking and performance was normal. I just wasn’t sure if I was having something weird going on. Thought the “Barnacle Buster” chem might have softened them up from the last time a circulated the cleaner in the engine.

Thanks.

[Robert McManus]

The bottom ones on both sea inlet and outlet had the wear. The most was on the inlet.

[Robert McManus]

We didn’t have any old wet suit foam pieces but I used a thin plastic sheet with a 6″hose clamp around the tube sheet to hold it in place. The “Barnacle Buster” worked in about 30 minutes to clean the internal tube surfaces.
The 2 cans of “Brake Clean” flushed a significant amount of oily residue that was not visible on the inlet side surface of the fins. If my ship is in port here next time I’ll bring them into work and drop them in the ultrasonic cleaner. We finished with a fresh water flush on the cores and reinstalled with the Alco Metalube as depicted in the SBMar video.

Hardest part of the job was getting at the outboard side of the port engine to remove the aftercooler.

[Robert McManus]

Access to engine controls is limited. J boxes are loose in wiring compartment in bulkhead- I definitely need to get in there when its not 100F and unclutter that pile. Harness is not neatly arranged but all connectors do check to be tight. None were disturbed during oil change maintenance

the Glendinning has the engine synch. I recall pushing engine “synch” button without thinking while engines in Glendinnnig” “warm” mode which had no affect. In “warm” mode the synch doesn’t seem to perform a function anyway by design(?).

One more update- when port key is on only port engine vessel view turns on. When starboard key is on both Starboard and Port engine vessel view boot. It seems as though the Starboard is acting like the “master” unit for power to vessel view, and shutdown. Are they switched through the Glendinning cpu? should I do “hard” boot of the glendinning by removing power cable and reinstalling it?

[Robert McManus]

In reviewing the Glendinning manual both key switches control the Glendinning computer. I have written them to see if this could be related to the EEC3.

[Robert McManus]

Battery voltage 12.7v on each engine battery

Both keys OFF– Turn on Port engine key- port engine electric fuel priming pump starts. Port Vessel View boots. Depress Port start button- port engine starts. depress Port engine stop button- port engine stops, vessel views shuts down then reboots with indication of engine stopped.

Both keys OFF– Turn on Starboard engine key- Starboard engine electric fuel priming pump starts. Starboard Vessel View boots. Depress Starboard start button- starboard engine starts. Depress Starboard engine stop button- Starboard engine stops, vessel views shuts down then reboots with indication of engine stopped.

Turn both Keys ON. Start Starboard engine with starboard start button- starboard engine starts. Start Port engine with Port start button- Port engine starts. Depress Port engine stop button- NO port engine stop. Depress Starboard engine stop button both engines stop.

[Author]

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