Turbo to Exhaust Elbow bolts QSB 5.9 380hp

[Robert McManus]

We’ve had boat for 4 years. Getting around to short list on maintenance. Last item- replacing bolts on turbo outlet to exhaust elbow.  I’ve soaked the bolts for 4 days now with PB Blaster. Bought a Proto 6 point 10mm “long” combination wrench. Tried with modest force double wrenching the easiest bolt (11 o’clock position) with no movement.  I’m a little disappointed in the wrench “fit” on the hex head. I don’t think I’ve lost much material on bolt head but the wrench is definitely a little looser than expected. Socket wrench doesn’t fit- gap between flange an elbow water jacket- too tight.   next move- heat and bee’s wax? Any lessons learned on this job? ps- once I finish the bolt change out does the Rustoleum “High Heat” paint 1000F hold up on this location?

Topic

[Lennard Wooters]

Similar issue a few years ago.

I had trouble getting the same bolts out a few years ago.  My bolts were a little rounded.  I ended up ordering these:   

https://www.zoro.com/ken-tool-low-profile-twist-socket-set-10-pcs-30271/i/G2926443/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&gclid=CjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1KpaCXfrc2p_PbC6durD9VsV85upeoxmZjOFqq45nunjChOsSU02rBoCsqQQAvD_BwE

 

I was then able to remove the bolts.  You should also try using “Fluid Film” instead of PB Blaster.

[Robert McManus]

Nope

Actually, we held off on getting into it until after Sword season here in VaBeach.  I did try with my siz point socket a few more times without going crazy on the torque be it didn’t feel good.  I think I’m going with Mark Tripi method above to ensure I have something to grab with a vice grip or pipe wrench. My Dremel saw should work on the bolt heads between the head and the washer so as not to gouge the flange.  I don’t want the bolt breaking off in the turbo casing which will make the “20 minute” job really unpleasant.

[Patrick Mangum]

Did you ever get the bolts off?  I’m curious because I’m about to start on the same project.

[Robert McManus]

oops

thought it was the rise on the seawater into the exhaust. back to the boat.

checked- boat on even keel- no list.

drop from exhaust elbow inlet going outboard to aft run was approx 7″ +/- 1/2″

[Gene Fuller]

I may be wrong (as usual), but I believe the measurement needed is the one indicated by the green circles in the photo.

[Robert McManus]

more pics

closely looking at the boat in the lift she is up by the bow between 6″-12″ over her 35′ length.

“hose2.jpg” is measuring with square vertical.  3-1/4″

“hose4.jpg” is measuring with square perpendicular to the deck- 3″

My guess is this is the range when stopped in the water.

 

 

[Mark Tripi]

I had the same problem a few years ago. The problem is the rust from the turbo side has expanded and made the bolts even tighter. The quickest and easiest way to get them off is to cut them off with a sawzall or a hack saw blade taped on one end for you to hold. Once I did that I used a small pipe wrench to take the rest of the bolts out and it was easier to remove them than I figured. The rust on mine had expanded enough to bend the elbow mounting flange. I sent my elbows out to be rebuilt. Better check the turbos also. 

1 user thanked author for this post.

Robert McManus

[Tony Athens]

It will be interesting to “SEE” inside the turbo exhaust outlet 

Look at the picture you posted.

 

 

[Robert McManus]

stern view of exhaust and lift

water line trim fore and aft is pretty “level” when on the lift, slightly down by stern. Exhaust transom penetrations are about 1/3-1/2 submerged when in water along side dock depending on fuel load.  

the scum line shows minor port list- I think that was when we had a full water tank which is on the port side.

[Robert McManus]

continued follow up

about a year ago I had a seawater leak aft of the engine that may have caused some of the corrosion.   Attached are few new pics.  one shows elbow and outboard  leading exhaust. I’d guess there is a 2″ drop from elbow outlet to the turn and aft run for the exhaust. On another note- I’d discovered I had too many 10mm six-point sockets (yah- go figure) so I carefully ground one socket down, taking off about 1/4″ in height so it and the 1/4″ breaker would fit on the bolts. I’m continuing to soak them and buying some Kroil to continue the soak as there no rush. PS boat is generally kept in a lift.

[Tony Athens]

Sure would like to see your entire exhaust elbow/riser from a few feet away 

Hold the camera level to mother earth and show it all in ONE PICTURE –Maybe 2 perspectives.. That much rust & corrosion it telling a story–  Do you have external saltwater dripping on the engine in that area or ??

[Robert McManus]

Thanks for link

starting this weekend I’m applying a little heat and more penetrant.  On my ship we screwed up on an order and ended with a butt load of bee’s wax. too bad it’s in the Indian Ocean.

[Rob Schepis]

Check out the low profile bolt-out extractors I referenced here

Sheared bolt inside C450 Turbo

[Woo]

Ahhhh, get yourself a six-point 10mm ring spanner.

Soak with penetrating fluid many hours prior to attempting removal.

I suspect you’ll also be engaging the use of vice grip priers as well, however, not sure You should be the operator given your initial question and subsequent photos. Getting this wrong can create a lot of work.

And, sure looks like your turbo is eating a diet of salt water, likely from the improper use of that Cummins exhaust elbow and lack of design forethought…..

NOW is the time to fix the issue properly.

 

[Robert McManus]

pictures

sorry, initial post had a picture but I see it’s not attached. anyway, here’s a couple. 

So the clearance is too tight for the Milwaukee and Dewalt 1/4″ ratchet and sockets I have. 

the Proto 6 point combination wrench I have feels like it wants to round off the head.  

[Tony Athens]

How about 2-3 good pictures of what you are dealing with from 1-3 ft away?

 

 

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