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  • #163186

    lpmcc
    Participant

    The good news is that you don’t have to drop the oil pan.

    #163184

    lpmcc
    Participant

    This may help.Ā  The oil pump has been removed.Ā  It goes where the hole is.

    #160593

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Got it, thanks.Ā  I must have misunderstood what the aneroid does.Ā  Can you explain what it does and its purpose?

    Thanks!

    #160543

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Thanks Jmmy!Ā  Great info.Ā  I have those bits coming to me, but if they don’t work, I will do as you suggest.

    Thanks again!

    #160441

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Thanks Dan,

    I’m using “Torx Security” bits (a TT7 – TT40 set.Ā  TT20 & tt25 are the closest).Ā  Is that difference than “Tamper Resistant” in your link?

    Thanks for the help.

    #160431

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Tony & Cory (and anyone else),

    I tried to follow your instructions on removing the aneroid cap.Ā  It appears to be a tamper proof Torx head, but I bought a set of assorted bits (all kinds), but cannot find one that fits.Ā  Attached is a pic <sorry, it’s the best I could take>.Ā  And ideas on what size this is or how to remove?

    Thanks

    Larry

    #160085

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Thanks for the comments.Ā  I don’t think it is the turbo (but it could be).Ā  It has always done this, and I have had the exhaust off a few times to ck turbo & exhaust and both were fine (no oil, no water, blades good, spin good, little carbor, etc.)

    #159950

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Thanks Tony!

    #159196

    lpmcc
    Participant

    There is a small dial on the back of the tacks.Ā  You need to a small screwdriver to turn it.Ā  Turn it back and forth a few times and put it back where it was.Ā  That usually solves this issue

    #156795

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Should burn.Ā  It could burn a lot more if over propped.

    #155772

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Also to note, the gear ratios in the trans might be different port to strb.Ā  One might be running in “reverse” to go forward and the reverse ratio could be slightly different than forward.

    #154713

    lpmcc
    Participant

    As an FYI, I’m in FL too with the same engines.Ā  For 12 years and 1,500 hrs I have not had a problem with condensation in the aftercoolers.Ā  I do remove & service them ever 2 years.Ā  All is good.

    #152054

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Be sure your fuel valves are 100% opened…..don’t ask me how I know……

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #151149

    lpmcc
    Participant

    I cannot even imagine such a project!Ā  Congratulations!Ā  It looks great, well done.Ā  Thanks for sharing.Ā  As an owner of two 23 year old 6CTA’s with 2,400 hrs on them, I can say great engine choice.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #149985

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Thanks Rob!….I will follow your advice.

    #149949

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Can anyone help on this issue?

    #149711

    lpmcc
    Participant

    I had no issues/symptoms.Ā  I just noticed it when I changed the fuel filter.

    Tony?Ā  Cory?Ā  Is this part “mission critical” to running the boat?

    #148203

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Steve,

    Thanks for the update, and all the info.Ā  Keep us posted on how everything goes this season.

    #148138

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Thanks Rob, I appreciate the info.

    #148076

    lpmcc
    Participant

    Where is the best place on the engine to shoot an IR temp gauge to get the correct temp?Ā  My gauges show 175 degrees, but oil pan is 195.Ā  Both engines are the same.

Viewing 20 replies - 1 through 20 (of 63 total)