[Bill]

Here it is:

Leaking SMX pump

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cam

[Bill]

I posted a thread on here a couple years ago where I described how I took my smx pump apart and replaced the seals.  I’ll see if I can find it.  

[Bill]

No, two different alloys.  But both good for high temp and high corrosion environments.  <br /><br />Anyway sorry to distract from your original question, which I’m not qualified to answer.  

[Bill]

Are you sure that’s stainless?  I recently had D’Angelo make me new mixing elbows and they made them out of INCONEL.  Super hard and very salt tolerant.  Sure looks like yours may be that as well.  Might want to check with D’Angelo.  

[Bill]

Yes, it’s challenging.  The two pipe ends are very close together.  I’ve done several of these. A couple times I managed to work it in.  Once I got it on by actually cutting off one of the ends of the hose a bit to shorten it.  Other times I ended up removing the banjo bolt.  But that will require two new coper banjo washers and some Tru Blu to reconnect the banjo after slipping the new hose on.  

[Bill]

Hmm. Picture I attached didn’t upload. Let me try again.

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Chuck Rich

[Bill]

Related question. My replacement gear oil coolers came with two zincs and a bonding wire post. I went ahead and bonded it to the engine block. Can I forget about the zincs as a result?

[Bill]

I considered that as well. But I got concerned about having the regular black fuel line right up against the engine. The B to C blue hose seems to be some kind of high temp thing with steel braiding or something like that to stiffen it. So I decided not to mess with that factory install choice. It was all hunches, I didn’t do any scientific analysis.

[Bill]

I found the thread with the pictures:

Delete combo fuel block and fuel cooler.

[Bill]

I removed the fuel cooler on my 450 Diamonds. I simply connected A to B. A on mine is a flare fitting (looks like yours may be as well). B is an ORFS fitting. I could not find an ORFS to flare fitting so I coupled two fittings together to get it to work. One was a flare to NPT. And the other was an NPT to ORFS. Somewhere on here I posted the picture in another similar thread.

[Bill]

For me, new shaft. Shaft shop condemned it when they got it for straightening. Too much work to straighten it and fill the worn bearing area. We are pretty sure it was bent like this when I bought the boat 7 years ago. Went through two cutless bearings in the seven years. .007-.013 does not seem like a lot of bend, but apparently so. Have you put a dial indicator on the shaft at both ends and at the shaft seal? Also a dial indicator on the outer edge of the mating face of the transmission coupler to make sure the transmission is turning true?

[Bill]

Mine had the same symptom. Light rumble for about 8-10 seconds followed by silky smooth for five seconds or so. Over and over and over again. When it started there was no play in cutless bearing. Ran a three day trip each way and checked it every day. On the third day there was play at the bearing. Came home and had it hauled and put dial indicator on shaft. Yard expert told me that type of oscillating vibration is usually from shaft/cutless bearing interface issues.

[Bill]

I experienced something similar recently. Although mine was more noticeable at my cocktail speed at 1150rpms (450 Diamonds) and two year old cutless bearing got slop in it already. Smooth at cruise. Turned out starboard prop shaft was out of spec. .013 off at coupler, .007 off at prop taper and .010 worn down at cutless bearing. Took it off and sent it to shaft shop and they said get a new one rather than straighten an fill. So I did. Then I checked with new one and engine alignment was .004 out of spec. So I moved the engine around.

Not saying this is your situation, though. Just some data for you to ponder.

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JP Lazo

[Bill]

I just did a Sherwood impeller change on twin 6BTA for first time on that engine. Tony’s helpful hints were great and made it go fairly smooth. I did have to remove fuel cooler return hose and shaft seal cooling hose to get better access. But, on the hard to access port engine I got so excited that the impeller came out that I forgot about the key. It fell down into the pump and I guess into the bottom of the supply hose. Now my job is trying to get that 20 year old hose off that’s hard as a rock. Might just cut it off and replace it. Strainer is in rear of engine so about a 6 foot run.

[Bill]

Rydlyme is roughly 10% HCL. Muriatic Acid is roughly 31% HCL. The active ingredient for descaling is obviously the HCL. So several options exist to get the 10% HCL concentration Tony recommends.

[Bill]

Thanks Tony. Do you sell long enough gear oil cooler hoses to reach the new location, or will I need to get them custom made? Also, can I just use a hose to go from aftercooler to hx and eliminate that bent metal pipe. I hate that thing in salt.

[Bill]

I had a leak first time at one of the bushings. Then I coated al the threads with rector seal 5 and the installed. That stopped all the leaks at the threads.

[Bill]

While I am here, what’s the purpose of moving the gear oil cooler to where the fuel cooler was? I removed my fuel cooler long ago but gear cooler is still behind aftercooler. Other than possible ease of access is there a functional/performance reason?

[Bill]

Here is my poor mans aftercooler pressure tester. A couple of 1 1/2” rubber caps from the local hardware store. A couple of 1/2” to 1/8” bushings for the zinc ports. And a shraeder valve and a gauge for each bushing. Rubber caps go on the water hose inlets. Pump it up to 20psi and see what happens. You could do the same in the heat exchanger. You’d just need to buy an adapter that lets you screw both the valve and the gauge into the same bushing. Either that or just use the valve. Pump it up and dunk it in a bathtub or pool and see if you get any air bubbles.

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Kevin, Harry Karaoglanian

[Bill]

Humpty Dumpty is back together. First picture is the cleaned out housing ready for the new seal. Second picture is the new main seal installed. That went in easy pushing with gloved fingertips. Final picture is with the shaft seal and cap locked in place with the retaining clip. To push the clip in place I used a piece of 1” pvc pipe. It was the right inside diameter to push the clip down until it snapped into its shaft groove.

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Scotth, Tony

[Author]

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