[worldcatlemon]

The engine is a 2005 with 143 hours. I stripped the engine down to the block to service everything and repaint it. So I have the ecm and fuel pump already removed….and you’re right it was a pain.

 

Are there fuel pumps more suitable for the marine application instead of an automotive style ? Or would it be better while it is apart to replace with a newer style OEM fuel pump ?

[worldcatlemon]

Thanks. Gives me a good place to start.

[worldcatlemon]

I apologize.  I should have been more specific.  I meant to ask for the torque specifications of the nuts, bolts, accessories attached to the engine, not how much torque the engine puts out.

 

I’m reassembling the engine and I need to know how tight each fastener needs to be. So I’m looking for a resource that has those specs.

[worldcatlemon]

Thanks Tony. I have low hour 280A’s but a set of 80A’s came up and I was thinking about a backup set.

[worldcatlemon]

Great!! Thanks a bunch !!

[worldcatlemon]

Thank you.

A three level disc replacement, pretty much a full rebuild…Lol

[worldcatlemon]

What I did on my aftercoolers for my 5.9qsb’s was I wire brushed the putting holes, filled the pits with 2 part marine epoxy filler, sanded the surface smooth, sprayed a light coat of epoxy primer and enamel paint and the sealing surface was restored.
There’s also a body filler called “Allmetal” that is an aluminum base that you could use but it’s harder to sand.
Good luck

1 user thanked author for this post.

JJM

[worldcatlemon]

And of course the Smartcraft panels

[worldcatlemon]

Thanks for the clarification.

So apparently I have two complete harnesses and gauges to sell…Lol

[worldcatlemon]

The original harnesses and gauges came out of a twin screw application.
If I install engines as single screw in 2 separate boats would i need the junction box with the SMX upgrade?

[worldcatlemon]

Corey, just so I am understanding you clearly,
does the engine harnesses on the engine get replaced ( ie, the wire loom to the injectors, cam and crank sensors, oil pressure sensor, temp sensor etc…)….is this wire loom part of the upgrade?

Or does the new system begin at the 40 pin connector that goes to the new SMX panel?

[worldcatlemon]

The orange hoses are soft and squishy until I squeeze it hard then I can feel a hard line inside.

[worldcatlemon]

Roger that. That makes sense

[worldcatlemon]

Tony,

At first I thought they were hoses under pressure because they were bulging in a weird way but after squeezing them I realized the sleeves were just sleeves.
I was thinking about removing the sleeves just to clean up the appearance. I know it’s petty but I like things to look good.

[worldcatlemon]

I wonder if there is a kit available for the rear sump option ?

[worldcatlemon]

Tony,

Yes my engines have a front sump configuration.

[worldcatlemon]

Still working out the kinks in my pressure tester….Lol

I will test the entire unit once I know the core doesn’t leak. By testing the core before installation if it has any pinholes i won’t waste grease and have to clean grease up. All my other sealing surfaces are smooth and new orings, so doubtful it will leak.

[worldcatlemon]

Tony, I enjoy working on stuff and would write an article. I’m just not real sure how to do it in the format you mentioned.

[worldcatlemon]

Rubber reducer is 5″ ID on one end and 4″ID on the other. Rubber reducer doesn’t touch the fins but seals on the outer copper ring and seals on the ABS.

[worldcatlemon]

Tony,
I have the correct impeller but I’m doing a complete rebuild of the pump and wanted to verify the proper kit is 25126-shw if someone could help in this regard.

[Author]

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