[marks737]

Thanks for the input!

[marks737]

Thanks.  I wasn’t referring to the tension itself but how to actually adjust the belt pulley on the bracket which has a threaded rod with 2 nuts.

[marks737]

Thanks. I change oil prior to layup at the end of the season and usually average about 60-75 hrs a season. Just wasn’t sure if the oil was supposed to be black and if that meant it had degraded or not.

[marks737]

What condition are the screens in?

[marks737]

I have an ’05 390 Sundancer as well with QSB 5.9’s. Just had props scanned and repitched because I was above the curve and wasn’t making max RPMs. Props scanned at 21×23 in. They repitched to 21x 21.5 in and that brought me down to the curve. Also had a cyclical vibration at around 1000 RPMs that went away with the prop service.

[marks737]

Oops! My bad! Thanks

[marks737]

Thanks Tony. Boat was loaded with 4 small adults, 2/3 fuel, 3/4 water tank.

[marks737]

Here’s my quick disconnect set up on my strainers. Literally takes a few minutes to flush both engines and genny at the end of a run.

[marks737]

Here’s pics of the ball valves with quick disconnects installed. Now my only concern is that there’s no cap on ends so the valves are the only thing keeping water out. Should I be concerned? I don’t think they can open while under way but would feel better if there was some kind of cap or maybe a safety bungee preventing handle movement. What do you guys think?

[marks737]

As Rob mentioned. I flush with my seacocks open. Much safer that way. I just wanted to confirm that with them open the fresh water would be forced out of the seacock when the engine was shut down after flushing.

[marks737]

Yes

[marks737]

I use the Temp Stick. Works great!

1 user thanked author for this post.

Don Willis

[marks737]

Just wondering if it would be strange to have my Sea Ray analog round gauges just sitting there dead though.

[marks737]

So with option 1, do you still lose the analog gauges?

[marks737]

David E. Roshak wrote:

I have a 2004 38 Rampage with 2 480ce’s . The boat came with Barnegate Bay strainer boxes instead of Grocco Bowl Sea strainers. Its real hard to winterize the raw water system …I have to pull both inlet hoses off the sea cocks and connect to 5 gallon pail . Any better way of getting anti-freeze into system ?

Would appreciate any input.

By the way …I dropped a valve 2 days after closing on the boat in Fla. trying to bring it back to N.J. thank god I had a full survey and oil sample done prior. Geico Ins paid for everything..

If you can’t plumb a more permanent setup. Try the “Sea Flush” system. Basically a funnel that sits on top of the strainer with a snorkel tube that goes into a large bucket of antifreeze. Works very well.

[marks737]

Thanks again Steve. I’ll definitely do an RPM/Fuel burn chart. If you don’t mind, I’m still a little confused as to how weight has no bearing on load and fuel burn. For example…if the same engines and props are driving two different boats. One weighs 20,000lbs and the other 35,000lbs. Wouldn’t the engines on the 35,000lb boat be under a much greater load/fuel burn to achieve the same RPM’s? Just trying to understand.

[marks737]

Thanks for the great advice Steve. I think I’ll definitely take some pitch out of the props this winter. Yes I do have a 390 Sundancer 2005. We’re located in brackish water at the end of a river in NJ. I do a Salt Away flush once a month. Does taking modifying the props weaken then at all?

[marks737]

Thanks Rob. Not sure what my next move should be. I probably put about 50-75 hrs on the boat each season. Should I just not worry or look into reducing prop pitch an inch or two?

[marks737]

Thanks!

1 user thanked author for this post.

Rob Schepis

[marks737]

Looks like my filter head is oriented differently from your pic. I’m guessing the inlet tap is the one with the visible fuel line in my pics. I’ll figure it out. Thanks.

[Author]

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