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Turbo exhaust flange bolts
This topic has 3 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 3 months ago
January 6, 2024 at 9:35 am I have ’06 QSB 5.9s that are getting some winter rehab. I am in the process of replacing original rear motor mounts and am attempting to disconnect the exhaust so I can freely jack the engine with a thin hydraulic ram.Ā Zero success loosening the 4 turbo flange bolts so far. I’ve tried all of these: kroil cycles, heat with torch, box wrench/ring spanner, and my last unsuccessful attempt was with a low profile bolt extractor.Ā Any fin…
3 RepliesJanuary 15, 2024 at 7:29 pm Internal 8 MM Threads in the turbo casting are OK?Ā Do they need “chasing” or cleaning upĀ with a tap? Lots of anti-seize on the new hardware/bolts..Ā Don’t over tighten the new cap screws– Use a graphite gasket–it’s superiorĀ Turbo is 100% good — But curious–How long had the engine not run when these pics were taken?
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sudden power loss -> no throttle response
This topic has 9 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 3 years ago
May 6, 2019 at 10:36 am Hi all – odd issue on one of my 2006 QSB 355s yesterday. After hitting ~1800 rpm my starboard motor lost power and I had to get home on idle rpm. Couldn’t get throttle response until a few hours later when I restarted the engines and starboard subsequently worked fine. I opened dash and verified throttle cycled through the linkage and was connected. After starboard started working again I took a trip, got on plane and everything was…
9 RepliesOctober 12, 2020 at 6:26 am Replacing the Medusa harness worked perfectly for me. I also went as far as using a toothbrush/corrosion X combo on all of the connection pins that attach from the engine to the Medusa. I never changed the coolant sensors but what I did instead was unplug both coolant sensors from the engines and connected Tonys terminating resistor. https://www.sbmar.com/product/cummins-marine-smartcraft-low-coolant-circuit-resistor/ Ive been trouble free sinc…
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Replacing mounts/alignment while on the hard
This topic has 5 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
November 21, 2019 at 8:58 pm I have a pair of ā06 QSB5.9 355s in my Tiara 3200 and I am attempting to replace my mounts this winter while on the hard. Prior owner had a raw water pump dump seawater on the front mount on port engine and itās clearly well past time for replacement (pic attached). Two questions: 1) my boat is blocked for winter and currently sitting on a bow up incline somewhere between 4 and 8 degrees. Is it possible to get the new mount installed properly wi…
5 RepliesFebruary 6, 2020 at 7:53 am “Mix & Match” = No issues Hopefully you super greased the studs on you replacement mounts are can address some of your salt water issues. Why We Use Grease on Marine Engine Isolators Notice we always use the “big nut” on the bottom. Only a true couch engineer that never worked in the field and/or never monitored long term use would have come up with the opposite. Tony
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pull aftercooler/heat exchangers -> before of after winterizing?
This topic has 1 reply, has 2 voices, and was last updated by 4 years ago
September 11, 2019 at 7:39 am Hello all – I have ’06 QSB 5.9 355’s and I want to pull my coolers/exchangers to have them serviced via the seaboard method over the winter. The crux is I need to winterize my engines in November. If I fully winterize with antifreeze then remove the coolers/exchangers is this the correct order of operations? Will removing the coolers/exchangers post the antifreeze flush effectively ‘un-winterize” my engines and cau…
1 ReplySeptember 11, 2019 at 8:05 am You will be fine as long as whatever residual is left remaining is the winterizing antifreeze, not water, which it should be as long as you do your antifreeze procedure 100% thoroughly as if the coolers were not being pulled. Yes when you start removing things the antifreeze will drain from high spots (no biggie) and remain in low spots (this is good) but the key is doing that full winterization before you start removing anything.
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Turbo exhaust flange bolts