[David Diener]

Hi Tony,

It is a modified version of your envirovent product. I ordered it from you but when I got it the neck didn’t fit under my engine box. I had to put a different neck off the valve cover to make it shorter so it would fit under my engine box. I just used a 1/2 in pipe as the neck. Believe it is 1/2 inch inside diameter. Then I used a quick disconnect ,kind of a fire hose type of connector, to tie into the CCV hose. I think that is part of the issue. If I had a longer neck it think it would reduce the amount of oil. I just have no room to go up.

My air filter is down low in the engine compartment. I flipped my turbo for water ingestion issues. Have a cobra head silicone hose on the intake side of turbo. Then it connects to L shape pipe which the air filter in on. It basically sits on the boat stringer.

I do try to run on the lower end of oil capacity. I aim for min level on oil dipstick which I’ve determined to be around 11-12 Qts. Do notice a big difference in he amount of oil I get in puke bottle running on the lower end of oil capacity.

I’m trying to decide if I should Do any other mods to this system? I keep thinking about an oil separating filter or something along those lines. Or maybe I should just live with it.
Thanks for the help and all the resources you provide!

[David Diener]

Hi,

I’ve attached some pics of my set up. You’re right Rob. I have it venting off #6 valve cover on the front side of boat. My cummins ccv vent points down. Had the engine out a couple yrs ago and it looked like the cover cound be flipped? I was thinking about doing it then, but it kinda left my mind. The engine does struggle in the cold and sometimes after it sits for awhile. Over a week. I was thinking it could be a leaky valve in the lift pump. Was going to try to put a new lift pump in to see if it makes a difference. Thinking maybe fuel running backwards out of the pump? Ive tried the oil cap trick and powering the engine up. The cap stays put. So there doesn’t appear to be excessive pressure at the cap. Not sure if the oil does any harm but it is messy. I was thinking putting an oil separator in line to try and reduce the amount of oil.

Thanks for the help!

[David Diener]

I screwed around with the alarm circuit board and if I pull the input plug on WIF circuit it makes no change to alarm. If I pull the output plug on the water circuit the WIF light goes out along with alarm. My concern is the audlible alarm seems weak. Can barely hear it with the engine running. Same with the ignition on and engine not running. Seems it has lost some volume.

[David Diener]

Aftercooler has been serviced. Actually put a new case on it. Side vents should be good. Replaced the dryer vent on starboard side not long ago. I’ll double check port side. Not sure I’m following your thinking. Ran the boat and had no issues. Would Have thought if it was an airflow issue I would have been making some black smoke. Didn’t have any smoking issues.
I try to run the oil low. Seem to get a lot less oil in CCV collection bottle when oil level is low. I would guess between 10-11 qts. The engine has always seemed to get a lot of oil with the crankcase ventilation. Maybe the oil from turbo is just from recycled air from CCV?

No, I don’t have any WIF sensors.

[David Diener]

Hey Rob,

Yeah, I did clean the air side of the turbo with a little dawn and water and a spray bottle. That was a couple weeks ago. Also cleaned the air filter with some cleaner and water. Let it dry for a couple days before I put it on the engine. The air filter is in pretty good shape. I thought the water in fuel warning was from a sensor on the filters?

The circuit board had never gotten wet. As far as I know. It’s behind the instrument panel and the helm is under cover on all sides so would be very unlikely. Everything was dry when I looked at it.

[David Diener]

few more pics

[David Diener]

Well took out on sea trial yesterday. Everything ran good. Still have a couple things I wanted to take care of. Hose from HX discharge to wet elbow is long and a little floppy. Was going to get some retaining clamps to help hold it better. Looks like I can secure it to after cooler and HX bracket. Even better may still have the run made out of a tube.
Another issue is the air side of the turbo looks like it leaking some oil from behind the big retaining clip. Not sure if clip is not quite seated all the way or if this is normal for these turbos? Seem to have had this issue before?

Also, after I started the engine for the first time, got a water in fuel light and alarm. Don’t even have a water in fuel circuit set up in my boat. Went through this about a year ago and replaced the PCB. Seems to have come back. Is there a warranty on these PCB’s? Disconnected the WIF plug from back of PCB and it’s still alarming.

I’ve attached some pics of finally configuration. Appreciate any comments or if anyone sees anything that could be an issue or better idea.
Thanks for all the help!

[David Diener]

Hey guys,

Getting closer to getting this thing done! Moved my gear cooler to the top of transmission. Had my after cooler serviced by Ron Jago with Unlimited Yachts In Bradenton, FL. He’s a great guy! I was talking to him about my gear cooler placement and he didn’t think it was a great idea. Seemed to think it is the most restrictive cooler and probably shouldn’t be first in the cooling circuit. So he talked me out of pitting it where my fuel cooler used to be. Was more work but hopefully better in long run.
Had my Heat exchanger modified by Alfa Laval in Sarasota, FL. Apparently they are the ones that originally built it. Used to be Champs I think. But had the discharge port changed to point up instead of forward. Turbo was in the way so had to modify.
Found a tight radius intake hose from a company out of Sweeden, Do88. It a cobra head with 4″ intake. That was a great find. As much as I looked I couldn’t find anything with a 4″ intake. Tony sent me some pictures with some tight radius exhaust that got me looking in that direction.
One of the issues I had was the turbo oil discharge drain hose. It’s a 7/8″ hose. Seems to be a unicorn! Found one but took some work. My old one was to short so hopefully have one in a few days.
Hoping to have this thing running by the weekend. Fingers crossed!! I’ve attached some pics for whoever is interested.

[David Diener]

Thanks Rob!

Just what I needed.

[David Diener]

Thanks,

Another question. Where the coolant line comes off the turbo and returns into the block. There is a coolant tube. Was thinking about pulling that off and adding about an inch or so to the tube so it will clear my wet exhaust elbow. It’s a little tight there. I could fix it with a 90 hose but would be cleaner if I could extend the tube. But I’m perplexed as to how that tube is sealed into the block. Any chance someone would have a parts diagram so I could see the setup before I take it apart? Couldn’t find anything online. Attached pics of what I’m talking about.

[David Diener]

Finally got the final adjustments on my elbow. Everything is lined up great. I decided not to move the water injection tube on wet elbow. The only thing that bothers me is the injection tube is going to stay wet. But think it will be ok for the life of the elbow. Moved the gear cooler to were the fuel cooler used to be. Thanks Rob! Had some brackets made for the heat exchanger. Just need to figure out the plumbing and airbox issue.

Issues I need some help with. Was trying to decide whether to paint the wet elbow. It’s polished stainless. Looks nice. Should I put a coat of paint on it? Not even sure how well it would take paint.

Also for my plumbing issues. I’m not going to be able to find hoses to make all the bends I need. For example from after cooler to hx. Since I no longer have the gear cooler there and the hx has moves aft about 2.5 in. So I was going to use some stainless tube and elbows to get the bends I need. The issue I’m having is I can’t find anyone who can put the raised end on the tube to keep the hose clamp from pulling off the tube. Was thinking about having a welder run a bead around the tube to serve the same purpose. Would this work or or am I going to have leaks?

Thanks

[David Diener]

Yeah, but I’m due for an elbow anyway so I was figuring I have that expense even if I didn’t do anything. . I’m sure I’d have to mortgage my house to have the high mount custom exhaust made.
One thought was to buy a stock Cummins elbow and cut section out and reweld. Would think any good welder could do it.

[David Diener]

Don’t know if I can post a pdf on here. But I attached it.

[David Diener]

Well, would add quite a bit to my expenses to cut up my engine box and raise it. Quotes I got were $2500 to $4000.
Aso, I don’t think I can run the exhaust that way it is in the picture with a high mount on my boat. My muffler is to far forward and fuel tank is behind muffler so nowhere else to put it. I would have to do a 180 off the turbo and come back over the the engine with exhaust to tie into my muffler.
I think I can make it work this way. I just sent you and email with what I need for an elbow. Can you let me know what you think? Biggest issue is not lots of room to reverse direction off turbo. Need a short elbow. How short can they be made?

[David Diener]

I don’t have a fuel cooler. removed it about a year ago. Thats a good idea! never thought of it. Not sure if I would need to support it with a bracket or if it would float in the the hose. That cooler is fairly heavy.
Posted a pic of air manifold. Not crazy about all the bends but the only way I could make it work.

[David Diener]

First, whenever I upload pics they seem to get rotated. They were straight when I uploaded them but when I view them on here they are sideways or upside down. Strange.
Flipped the gear cooler. Not sure its going to work low might have to move it high but hard to tell without having elbow. I’m just guessing till I have that. But biggest challenge will be to move it to location where don’t have to do crazy bends with hose from after cooler to gear cooler. Its doable
Also made a air manifold out of PVC just to have a mock up. Have way more bends then I would like but its the only way I can make it work.
Looking at exhaust elbow and thinking its going to be tight. Figuring about 12.5 inches from turbo exhaust centerline to exhaust centerline moving opposite direction. Hope its not a deal breaker!

[David Diener]

Thanks
I’ll get some pictures to you. What kind of time frame do you think to get an elbow made? I have all the dimensions I sent to other exhaust place I could send those too?

1 user thanked author for this post.

Jack Cheetham

[David Diener]

Sorry pic didn’t make it. Here it is.

[David Diener]

Hi John,

The measurements I took had me between 10-10.5in above water line. Flipping the turbo gets me to 15-15.5. The picture I added tells the whole story. You can see the 45 degree exhaust elbow that the exhaust mixer dumped into. When the boat is in the water that 45 elbow is full of water. It doesnt flood buts it maybe an inch or two from coming over the top of the elbow. From there straight shot to my 45 degree mixer elbow. The picture is with turbo flipped. So it’s normally over sitting 5in lower.

[David Diener]

Hey Guys,
Been racking my brain all day and I’m 75 percent sure this can be done. Thinking i’m going to flip the gear cooler and mount it on the underside of bracket it is on now with everything reversed. Think I can use same mounting brackets but bolt it in from underneath where it sits now. looks like it will be underneath and clear of exhaust elbow there.
For my heat exchanger I’m thinking I need some L brackets with long feet to mount to exhaust manifold. Can use rubber “nests” that heat currently is secured with on bottom of L brackets to make a seat for heat exchanger to sit in.
I’m currently working with Marine Exhaust Systems in Palm Beach, FL to make me an exhaust elbow. Although after I sent them my dimensions they were less than enthusiastic. Supposed to be going to their engineers to see if it can be done. Would you guys be interested in taking on this job? Funny, originally guy at exhaust place told me they didn’t think turbo could be flipped. Said I better check with Cummins. Asked him if he knew Tony Athens. He said he didn’t. Told him he knows Cummins better than Cummins.
The issue I’m having the most problems with is what I’m going to do with the air filter. Thinking I need to fabricates an S tube or go with an air box. S tube would be tight. If say I had a 10inx10inx2in wide box with inlet and outlet cylinders at strategically placed locations. Don’t think I would have airflow restrictions and could get filter to a advantageous location. Also have environvent system that needs to be considered.
Well thats all for today. Hopefully get this all figured out then was planning to put everything back to original configuration until I can get all my pieces and parts fabricated. Reminds me, anybody know where I could get custom hoses fabricated? Some hoses i’m sure I could get off the shelf. But others I’m sure I’ll never get to work. Would be nice if I had someone to build hose to dimension. Thanks all.

[Author]

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