Turbo flip

[David Diener]

Hi guys,

Sorry to beat a dead horse. But I’ve been looking at ways to get some more height above the waterline on my turbo without having to chop up my engine box. I’m wondering if I can flip my turbo. Currently it exhausts out the port side of the boat and of course rocking at sea can cause issues due to straight shot to turbo and questionable height above waterline. Looks like if I flipped my turbo I would gain about 5 in of height. Plus by putting a 180 turn out of the turbo to connect to existing exhaust the water would have to change directions to get to turbo. Looks like I would have to shift heat exchanger back and shim it outboard, and Get a little clever with locating air filter but it appears doable to me. Any reason this wouldn’t work? Thanks for the help!

David.

Topic

[David Diener]

I screwed around with the alarm circuit board and if I pull the input plug on WIF circuit it makes no change to alarm. If I pull the output plug on the water circuit the WIF light goes out along with alarm. My concern is the audlible alarm seems weak. Can barely hear it with the engine running. Same with the ignition on and engine not running. Seems it has lost some volume.

[David Diener]

Aftercooler has been serviced. Actually put a new case on it. Side vents should be good. Replaced the dryer vent on starboard side not long ago. I’ll double check port side. Not sure I’m following your thinking. Ran the boat and had no issues. Would Have thought if it was an airflow issue I would have been making some black smoke. Didn’t have any smoking issues.
I try to run the oil low. Seem to get a lot less oil in CCV collection bottle when oil level is low. I would guess between 10-11 qts. The engine has always seemed to get a lot of oil with the crankcase ventilation. Maybe the oil from turbo is just from recycled air from CCV?

No, I don’t have any WIF sensors.

[Rob Schepis]

Slober:
Has the aftercooler been serviced including the air side?
Have you verified all engine room ventilation is clear. Your boat has vents under the cockpit gunnels (at the rod rack inserts), hull side vents and one at the side of the pilothouse. The side vents with the collector boxes are plumbed with cheesy dryer vent type flex duct and can sag and collapse resulting in a low spot that can fill with water and act as a trap.
How much oil in the crankcase?

WIF:
Do you have a WIF sensor in your Racor?

[David Diener]

Hey Rob,

Yeah, I did clean the air side of the turbo with a little dawn and water and a spray bottle. That was a couple weeks ago. Also cleaned the air filter with some cleaner and water. Let it dry for a couple days before I put it on the engine. The air filter is in pretty good shape. I thought the water in fuel warning was from a sensor on the filters?

The circuit board had never gotten wet. As far as I know. It’s behind the instrument panel and the helm is under cover on all sides so would be very unlikely. Everything was dry when I looked at it.

[Rob Schepis]

When you had everything apart did you clean the air side of the turbo?
Is that a new air filter, it looks a bit beat up? Did it ever get wet?
Did the alarm circuit board ever get wet?

[David Diener]

few more pics

few more pics

[David Diener]

back in the water!

Well took out on sea trial yesterday. Everything ran good. Still have a couple things I wanted to take care of. Hose from HX discharge to wet elbow is long and a little floppy. Was going to get some retaining clamps to help hold it better. Looks like I can secure it to after cooler and HX bracket. Even better may still have the run made out of a tube.
Another issue is the air side of the turbo looks like it leaking some oil from behind the big retaining clip. Not sure if clip is not quite seated all the way or if this is normal for these turbos? Seem to have had this issue before?

Also, after I started the engine for the first time, got a water in fuel light and alarm. Don’t even have a water in fuel circuit set up in my boat. Went through this about a year ago and replaced the PCB. Seems to have come back. Is there a warranty on these PCB’s? Disconnected the WIF plug from back of PCB and it’s still alarming.

I’ve attached some pics of finally configuration. Appreciate any comments or if anyone sees anything that could be an issue or better idea.
Thanks for all the help!

[David Diener]

nearing completion!

Hey guys,

Getting closer to getting this thing done! Moved my gear cooler to the top of transmission. Had my after cooler serviced by Ron Jago with Unlimited Yachts In Bradenton, FL. He’s a great guy! I was talking to him about my gear cooler placement and he didn’t think it was a great idea. Seemed to think it is the most restrictive cooler and probably shouldn’t be first in the cooling circuit. So he talked me out of pitting it where my fuel cooler used to be. Was more work but hopefully better in long run.
Had my Heat exchanger modified by Alfa Laval in Sarasota, FL. Apparently they are the ones that originally built it. Used to be Champs I think. But had the discharge port changed to point up instead of forward. Turbo was in the way so had to modify.
Found a tight radius intake hose from a company out of Sweeden, Do88. It a cobra head with 4″ intake. That was a great find. As much as I looked I couldn’t find anything with a 4″ intake. Tony sent me some pictures with some tight radius exhaust that got me looking in that direction.
One of the issues I had was the turbo oil discharge drain hose. It’s a 7/8″ hose. Seems to be a unicorn! Found one but took some work. My old one was to short so hopefully have one in a few days.
Hoping to have this thing running by the weekend. Fingers crossed!! I’ve attached some pics for whoever is interested.

[David Diener]

Thanks Rob!

Just what I needed.

[Rob Schepis]

That is listed as a “Water Transfer Tube” (#7) and there is an o-ring which seals it (#2)

[David Diener]

Thanks,

Another question. Where the coolant line comes off the turbo and returns into the block. There is a coolant tube. Was thinking about pulling that off and adding about an inch or so to the tube so it will clear my wet exhaust elbow. It’s a little tight there. I could fix it with a 90 hose but would be cleaner if I could extend the tube. But I’m perplexed as to how that tube is sealed into the block. Any chance someone would have a parts diagram so I could see the setup before I take it apart? Couldn’t find anything online. Attached pics of what I’m talking about.

[Rob Schepis]

You don’t have a wet elbow. You have a dry bend and stainless mixer. There’s nothing to paint. The dry bend needs a insulating wrap.

Adding a welded bead at the end of the tube would be good, that’s actually what that type of single bead barb fitting is called– “beaded”

Seawater hoses blow for one reason – neglet to keep your clamps up to snuff and allowing blockages in the raw water loop which adds pressure to everything ahead of it.. like this pic

[David Diener]

Update

Finally got the final adjustments on my elbow. Everything is lined up great. I decided not to move the water injection tube on wet elbow. The only thing that bothers me is the injection tube is going to stay wet. But think it will be ok for the life of the elbow. Moved the gear cooler to were the fuel cooler used to be. Thanks Rob! Had some brackets made for the heat exchanger. Just need to figure out the plumbing and airbox issue.

Issues I need some help with. Was trying to decide whether to paint the wet elbow. It’s polished stainless. Looks nice. Should I put a coat of paint on it? Not even sure how well it would take paint.

Also for my plumbing issues. I’m not going to be able to find hoses to make all the bends I need. For example from after cooler to hx. Since I no longer have the gear cooler there and the hx has moves aft about 2.5 in. So I was going to use some stainless tube and elbows to get the bends I need. The issue I’m having is I can’t find anyone who can put the raised end on the tube to keep the hose clamp from pulling off the tube. Was thinking about having a welder run a bead around the tube to serve the same purpose. Would this work or or am I going to have leaks?

Thanks

[David Diener]

Happy Easter

Yeah, but I’m due for an elbow anyway so I was figuring I have that expense even if I didn’t do anything. . I’m sure I’d have to mortgage my house to have the high mount custom exhaust made.
One thought was to buy a stock Cummins elbow and cut section out and reweld. Would think any good welder could do it.

[Rob Schepis]

FYI – A custom riser will cost you every bit of what the fiberglass guy quoted to mod the engine box.

Have you seen these pics? This was done my a DIY 28TE owner..

[David Diener]

sketch

Don’t know if I can post a pdf on here. But I attached it.

[David Diener]

Well, would add quite a bit to my expenses to cut up my engine box and raise it. Quotes I got were $2500 to $4000.
Aso, I don’t think I can run the exhaust that way it is in the picture with a high mount on my boat. My muffler is to far forward and fuel tank is behind muffler so nowhere else to put it. I would have to do a 180 off the turbo and come back over the the engine with exhaust to tie into my muffler.
I think I can make it work this way. I just sent you and email with what I need for an elbow. Can you let me know what you think? Biggest issue is not lots of room to reverse direction off turbo. Need a short elbow. How short can they be made?

[Tony Athens]

Do you really have room for a 90 degree elbow & and an air cleaner?

I still think the high mount turbo is a better long term option along with re-doing the stock exhaust run and re-designing it simple and right.

Tony

[David Diener]

I don’t have a fuel cooler. removed it about a year ago. Thats a good idea! never thought of it. Not sure if I would need to support it with a bracket or if it would float in the the hose. That cooler is fairly heavy.
Posted a pic of air manifold. Not crazy about all the bends but the only way I could make it work.

[Rob Schepis]

Sounds as if you are taking pics with an iPhone? If so, take the pics with the phone’s 2 volume buttons pointing down, that should keep them straight. For existing pics you can rotate them in Picasa and re-save them and the orientation will hold.

Are you running a fuel cooler? You can relocate the gear cooler to the fuel cooler location and do away with the fuel cooler if indeed you are still running one…

[Author]

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