Tony first off, thanks a for responding, and doing so, so quickly.Ā And yes, from the looks of the aftercooler core, this has been going on for a long time.
The boat is a 2005.Ā I bought it in 2017 and had the after coolers serviced at purchase by Cape Cod Marine (a certified Cummins shop).Ā I saw the service work in process, disassembled, cleaned, plenty of the recommended grease.Ā Around three years ago, I serviced them myself using the same procedure (and watching Seaboard video) and I pressure tested them for leaks.Ā Needless to say, that was not frequent enough and every two years is probably necessary.
After discovering the problem and buying the new core from Seaboard, I had the core/housing assembled, pressure tested and installed by WW Williams of South Carolina.Ā I drove from South Carolina to North Carolina and confirmed the oil loss/burning.
I had the oil changed just before I discovered this (three weeks ago) and the oil had no cream. Since then I have been looking at the dip stick and in the valve cover through the oil fill and do not see any cream.Ā I can remove the cover and do a better check.Ā I will pull and service the port after cooler asap.
I don’t see any smoke when underway but I do see oil sheen spotting in the exhaust water when idling.Ā Is there any other likely explanation for oil loss other than burning cause by ring damage?
Dave
Here is a picture of the insulation elbow.
As other posters have noted, this site is the place to get ideas and answer.
One thought depending on your engine configuration, your port aftercooler may be extremely difficult to service 9it is on the left side of the engine viewed from the rear) and maybe is was not serviced. Also check your air filter.
Dave
Tony,
Thanks for the information, now I understand. I want to add: you and the team at Seaboard are astounding, I’ve never encountered folks with so much marine diesel knowledge.
Thanks!
Dave
Hi Tony,
I bought the boat in 2016, the aftercoolers had never been serviced. I serviced them right away and I am servicing them again this year (plan to do it every four years). So maybe aluminum molecules are getting blown into the combustion chamber from the aftercoolers?
Curious, why is oil analysis of no value?
Thanks!
Hi Chris,
I have two QSB 5.9 380s (circa 2004) on my boat with smart craft. I’d be glad to send pics or show you the install, if that would help. I also have the wiring diagrams. The boat is on stands in Yarmouth.
Dave Carey 978-578-3242
Should be little or no corrosion but they could be plugged with organic stuff. Check the impellers on the sea water pumps see if they need replacing (where on the blade end lobes).
First off, do you have the as built wiring diagram. Cummins web site has it (tough to print) and I think Seaboard has them.
I have a similar set up QSB 5.9 380s. A few drops of sea water got into an unused terminal on the “adapter harness” and would intermittently create a voltage drop that would wipe out the ECM and the engine.
Dave
Andre,
Does the oil cooler have small plugs (~7/16)on either end? My engine does and I was able to get small pencil zincs into the cooler by cutting them down to 3/4″ length not much but maybe better than nothing.
Dave
If these are analog gauges, they should require a ground, a signal wire and a power wire from the sensor – could any of the wiring/connections be disconnected? If they are digital (say Smart Craft, it is a different ball game).
Just thinking, maybe the alternator is giving up? It should be able to produce enough amps at 600 rpm. Also, if you set to 675, it will be more difficult to do low speed docking.
I believe those are the main power for the ECM. If you log onto the Cummins Quick Serve site you should be able to pull up the wiring diagram for your engines with your model and serial numbers. With that you can trace those wires, see what they power and see if they are switched with the key or battery switches.
Do you have electronic throttles (vs mechanical), could be shorting etc.
It sounds like the “start” circuit is getting energized but not the ignition circuit. See that the wiring of the bad engine is the same as the “known good” engine (I know that is kind of obvious but there are a lot of wires). Also, you may be able to get the as built wiring diagram from Cummins by inputing your serial numbers into Cummins QuickServe.
