[Craig Menzel]

Thanks Tony

[Craig Menzel]

Hi Rob – I don’t know.  I tried to find replacement washers using ZF part numbers online, but was unsuccessful.  However, I was able to identify the size of the OEM washers, but not the material.  Based on the specs I found, I ordered two sizes (one for filter, one for drain bolt) in copper from another source.  For the larger filter washer, my source did not offer an aluminum option.

What washer material does Seaboard use for ZF transmission work (I don’t see an option to buy what I need on the their site)?

Thanks!

[Craig Menzel]

I used synthetic grease (on impeller and housing) and applied wire ties to compress impeller blades.  Once you get the impeller inserted up to the wire tie, you can cut it free with some snips.  I also bought a bolt whose threads are just off from the impeller’s (I believe 3/4”-10 x 1-1/2” w/ flanged head).  I thread it into impeller a couple of turns and it binds.  From there, you can put a socket wrench on the bolt head and push/tap while rotating.  

You then need to align the key ways on the shaft and impeller to insert the key.  That is always tricky for me, especially on the port engine.  To help with this I bought the three items in the image from McMaster-Carr.  I trimmed the key to length and put the it in the key way and extended it about 1/4” past one of the shaft ends.  The clamping shaft collar holds it all together.  Could be welded…. You can use this “tool” once the impeller is inserted to rotate it to align key ways (see photo)  The theory with the key extending past the end of the tool shaft is that it should help you find the pump shaft key way while rotating blind.  It takes some trial and error for sure.  <br /><br />One other note, temporarily removing the fuel cooler hose on my 370B’s from the pump elbow gives some additional working space for the impeller removal and installation. With the fuel lines still attached it kind of hangs loosely in place.   

 

[Craig Menzel]

Thanks Rob!

[Author]

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