[Clark Leighs]

Generally about 30PSI tops.    A  lot depends upon how hard you run the engines and how heavy the boat is.  

I am not suggesting that you run the engines at 30PSI except for testing.

But along with that goes what rpm are you operating at.   Look up Tony’s article, Tony’s Tips,  about propping  and how to do it.   Failure to pay attention to the propping can damage the engine.

[Clark Leighs]

Look up aluminum manifolds made by pneumatic equipment mfgrs. 

Made from 2 or 2.5 square ends with many configurations for outlets from about 3/8 pipe up to  I think 1″.

 

I used to use them at work but have forgotten the names, sorry

[Clark Leighs]

You may also look up some hydraulic mfld mfgrs that make manifolds out of aluminum .    About 2.5″ square at each end and with varying port, outlet sizes in outlet  from some thing like 4 outlets up to , a guess now, about 8 outlets on opposite sides from 1/4″  to  1″ outlets.   I used to use them at work  I’ll be darned if I can find any names.  sorry.   

 

I finally remembered  McMaster Carr

[Clark Leighs]

For the model of pump:

–how old id the boat?

-Post some good, clear photos and one of us can likely offer some good suggestions.

[Clark Leighs]

I redid my Capilano system many years ago.   Cylinder was leaking oil so I drained and pulled the cylinder.

Resealed it and used Auto trans oil,  GM stuff,  per the manual.

Used a 1 gal. old plastic gas jug when I refilled it  and it needed a total refill,  I carefully cleaned it out. I rigged an elbow  with a short hose on it into the oil inside the jug AND to hold the hose from flailing around, it will flail.   The elbow also had a  nipple to suit the hose  so the hose was not flailing at the connection to the upper pump or out of the supply jug..   Once the jug was full I started cranking the wheels. 

 I have twin stations.     The oil was being sucked in as I cranked.    It took some time of course but the system was charged and mostly purged of air. To boot I avoided the hose end from flailing around spraying oil all over which happened to another fellow  who omitted the weight of the fitting holding the hose end into the jug. His mistake was trying to use an open top serving dish.

Not all the air was purged yet.   We had to run the boat  a few times on rougher water so the boat bucked and rolled to move the last of the bubbles. I had to arrange the cylinder so the feed hoses were oriented differently as they fed from below, not above.   I  had to play with the Univalve to purge it also and it needed a few new O rings Once done it has now been  about 25 yrs since the cylinder was redone. I now have another cylinder and Univalve  awaiting any leaks, not yet. 

Just thought I would tell you it is not to bad a job,  just time consuming.   Also a method to avoid oil spray all over the bridge if the hose to the jug flails around and you get a big air bubble at the upper helm.  If that happens it will spray oil all over the bridge deck and you.        

Good luck and just take your time

[Clark Leighs]

I would guess and I am guessing that the shaft will have a seal also, an actual shaft seal, especially if the drive mechanism is belt or gear drive and from the exterior.   Parts book ??  

[Clark Leighs]

The Walker Air Sep is intended to separate the oily vapour ejected from the crankcase from the actual air flow so the oil can be discarded without fouling the air filters s0  quickly.

 

Seaboards’  crankcase venting is another way to do the same thing.    Look it up.

[Clark Leighs]

Tony is an expert, I am not but I agree with him.   Take it to a good repair shop and if need be is get a good marine electrician down to have a go over.

 

Just because it is a new alternator does not mean it cannot have a problem.    The problem of course could lie elsewhere.

[Clark Leighs]

If you can, take a sample of the so called coolant and send it to an oil testing  lab.  Yes, they do coolant testing also. Heavy rust like that says you have had seawater enter the engine which could do interior damage.

Pressure test the system for leaks. Remove as much rust as you can.    Then use a product such as Cummins cleaner,  RESTORE, following directions for treatment AND removal/flushing.   Be prepared to do it a couple of times.     Refill with proper coolant and water.

THe change cycle should be every 2 to 3 yrs. I suggest 2 yrs max. untill you get this under control and testing YEARLY to ensure nothing else is going on except the lack of attention.  This looks like either there is a  leak that purged the coolant replacing it with seawater  or  a  total, long term ignoring of the engine requirements.

And as D. Roth suggested get the heat exchanger tested before you go to far as it that is the source it needs to be attended to. 

[Clark Leighs]

I should have mentioned that if you measured 12.8V at the battery while cranking actually that is the wrong place for measuring.     The battery could show 12.8v  but a few poor connections away the voltage could be way down.     Measure the cranking voltage at the starter terminals or at the fuel control valve terminals.   As far as FAIRLY tight that may not be good enough.   They need to be CLEAN and  TIGHT.    All it takes is one poor connection to cause trouble.     

THe 12.8 could have shown due to any resistance in the wiring restricting the needed current flow to the fuel control valve and the starter motor in which case the battery showed more voltage than it should have.

 

 

I am going to suggest also that once sorted out you pay attention the the sound of the starter and how fast it spins the engine.       I have had problems over the last 40 yrs and one of the quickest tip offs that some work is needed is hearing the starter motor just a bit off.    We boat in cold weather and that does make difference but it should not make a huge difference unless there is also a brewing problem.

 

[Clark Leighs]

I don’t know your engine to be clear.    

 

It is possible the rod did not retract fully?    Did you try pushing it all the way?    Did you check the voltage at the electrical connections of the solenoid?     Is that where you got the ~12.5V. while cranking?   If so that sounds ok to me assuming the rod pulled back all the way.    Try pushing the rod while voltage is applied?

How about the linkage , is it stiff or sticky?    Sometimes these solenoids need a bit of servicing help such as a spray lube for them to overcome internal friction.   Spray while the rod is out and as it is retracted.

 

If I remember correctly that voltage must be maintained continuously for the engine to get the fuel to operate. 

[Clark Leighs]

When it shut down initially did it hesitate, stumble or try to continue to run although stumbling.   This may indicate fuel starvation.  Filters quite dirty, air leaks in supply lines. Look for wet spots and use paper towels to wipe and pick up any traces of fuel.   , I like the Blue shop towels as they show a distinct colour change if wetted even minimally.

Or did the engine simply shut down quite abruptly?    This  would indicate electrical problems, likely one or more poor connections.

Have you checked for poor connections at the Batteries?    Loose, dirty , corroded, including crimped connections. Do your clamps use wing nuts , a very poor nut for this purpose.  They should ( must) be a HEX nut.  Are the  connectors  clean and bright on the inside of the clamp.    Are the battery posts clean and bright?  Are the battery post clamps tight, no slippage.  If they cannot be tightened then get new ones with hex nuts.

Checked the battery cable clamps that they are clean and tight?.  You will need some tools, basics  such as a couple of wrenches, sandpaper.   I also use a LIGHT coating of  Penetrox Electrical paste to help keep corrosion at bay on the posts/clamps.  There are others that will suffice.   Tis messy so have some paper towels handy.

Do you have a DMM?  Learn to use it and use it as you go even here. Often they can show high resistance across connections.    Any thing generally more than  1 ohm  in a starting circuit is going to be trouble at some point.

For  DMM use purchase a long set of leads or make them  for both polarities and use them so you can watch the Vdrop while testing.   You must be able to see the readings.   Use strong alligator or bulldog clips.  

Use the DMM on voltage setting and check the voltage while cranking at the battery posts.    Should NOT drop below ~ 10V.       Better higher.

Your fuel control valve, allows fuel  to the injection pump, should show about 80% of the 12V of the batteries to pull in initially at the control valve.   If not then start looking for poor connections.  These solenoids usually need at least the 80% battery voltage,  then about 60% to stay pulled in.   THis solenoid is what turns the fuel to the injection pump on.

See how you make out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Clark Leighs]

Need more info to even start.

–Do you have EGT guages, both engines?

–boost guages as above?

–Double checked the tachs at the engines with a handheld tach  from Ebay?   about $20-$30.

__Do you have boost gauges?  both engines? readings?

–any engine smoking, either engine?  Appearance, colour and odour?

 

—

 

[Clark Leighs]

Dye can be purchased from auto parts places which will then flouresce under a black or infrared light.

Install that in the cooling system , run the boat to heat it up properly and mix the dye thoroughly.

Back at the dock , Night time and dark, use the black light and shine it around the engine.      If the leak hits any part of the engine  there will be a trail of dye left to help you identify where the leak originates from.

Often when people look for coolant trails by the time they can get to the E.R.  the coolant has evaporated off of the hot block leaving no or virtually no trail.     

 

If it is an internal leak it may not help but at least eliminate one source.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Kyle Routh

[Clark Leighs]

Any chance of an air leak before the pump? 

Air will negate the pump priming.

Loose hose or poor clamping,? 

Any leaks before the pump will stop it cold as air is far easier to pull through the system than water?  

Has the sea strainer primed?

Can you use  a vacuum guage before the pump  and/or a pressure guage after the pump?    Very low vac. would indicate an air leak.   High pressure would indicate a clog or blockage.

[Clark Leighs]

I agree with Tony about the 85-5-5-5 bronze which he knows FAR BETTER than I do.      However if you are still worried  you can consider using about a #8 COPPER  stranded wire insulated run  to the bonding plate or  nearest proper grounding point.    I did that years ago with a couple mods.      I stripped back the insulation for about three inches  and soldered the entire length of exposed wire after bending it for lots of contact area.  I then clamped, worm gear clamp, that soldered section tightly to the  fitting after coating it with some light grease to help stop/slow corrosion.     I check it every year for good contact and LOW resistance, less than 1 ohm from the fitting to the bonding plate.  I clean the wire and attachment place to ensure good contact. It has been something like 30 yrs since I did that and no signs of fitting degredation.  

 

Before I forget, use only     solder with   NON ACID flux core or NON ACID flux  or you will create a problem

Just an idea.  

[Clark Leighs]

Check the filter seals between the filter body and the filter element.    THey should be replaced each and every time you change filters.   THey can harden a bit or take an impression from their metal contacts and unless you line those up perfectly they will will improperly seal next time. 

Of course the filter element must be tightened properly or maybe the seal will fail to seal fully. I don’t mean cranking the daylights out of it but a GOOD snug tightening by hand.

 

Do you wet the seals, both sides, with fuel or oil?     Failure to do that may also mean the seal does not

really seal well.

[Clark Leighs]

Ensure the clamping faces of the flanges are free of any marks or raised area.   Likely not a problem but a light stoning with a watchfull eye for any raised spots.    Torque each bolt on opposites sides of the flanges and do it in several stages for the most even torque application.

[Clark Leighs]

Control the water FIRST.

[Clark Leighs]

Yes, about large vessels forcing water into the exhaust.     This has been discussed before.  It all depends upon the wave size but if wind is also hitting the transom that would not help.  I almost missed this, the size AND frequency of the waves may hold water from previous waves with each of the next wave adding water untill it enters the engine.

 

A flapper cover of the exhaust system exit may help but I would also put a small weight on that flapper to ensure it stays in place.   

 

A long term repair would be to look through and study Seaboard  , Tony Athens Tips, section about exhaust systems to prevent this from happening again.      

[Author]

Replies