Cummins Marine Diesel Repower Specialists › Forums › General Discussion › Engine Room Corrosion Inhibitor
Richard Dodson.
Can anyone recommend a good product to use for wiping down the engines/gears to prevent corrosion? Battling some spot rust here and there with these big temperature changes this time of year in the south.
Maybe a good wipe down with some WD40 would help?
The WD in WD40 stands for water displacing. It leaves very little corrosion prevention once it has dried. It was not certified for use in the Navy for that reason.
I just restored my entire bilge due to excessive corrosion everywhere caused by faulty galvanic protection. I now have a dry bilge and I am going to actually try a dehumidifier. Might work.
Food grade silicone spray is a great corrosion inhibitor. It does not leave a sticky coating when it dries.
I have dripless shaft seals that don’t spray water around. The rust I’m getting is minor spot rust mainly on the tops of the engines where condensation can pool. I’ll give a corrosion inhibitor a try once I touch up the paint.- Thanks for the replies.
Not sure where you guys are but engines will just sweat.
Temp, high humidity, etc. and they just get wet sitting in the dock.
Control the water FIRST.
Do you have a bunch of water rolling around. Uncontrolled water can cause lots of rusting.
Do you allow the stuffing box water to spray seawater around? You may not even see the spray but unless you have tried to prevent seawater spray from the stuffing box it likely is present causing rust of nearby metals.
Years ago I hacked up an old , small fender. Cut the ears off, cut the length in half , cut the hole one of the ears left just a hair bigger than the shaft., split the fender body so it could be opened and then clamped to the stuffing box hanging out over the shaft. The cut split was left facing down. No more spray or at least far, far less.
Any spray will travel quite a distance causing rust on the engine and gearbox and any other metal it comes in contact with. THis way it is collected on the inside of the old fender to simply drop into the bilge.
Done close to 30 yrs ago. Other have come up with other means of containing the spray from the spinning shaft and it works for them also.
I used and still do simply a worm gear clamp to hold that old cut up fender into place. If I need to check the stuffing box it only takes a few seconds to remove it. I keep the nut driver close by in a bracket, not the tool box where I have to dig for it.
There’s a trillion things you can use.
WD, Corrosion X, Boeshield, CRC, Corrosion X Aviation, ACF 50, Blaster, etc.
Pick one.
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