[Brad Arrington]

My 2019 BC 37 is similar.  Vibration is perhaps not as severe as yours, but it does vibrate at 600 at idle with the gear engaged.  <br /><br />I nudge the throttle a tiny bit and the vibration disappears.  

[Brad Arrington]

I’ve read the SB article and watched the video on the subject.  Based on those materials, its not accurate that Tony “does not like what I’m suggesting”.  <br /><br />Both the article and the video state that a post-pump flush setup is an acceptable option, so long as the exhaust has a natural gravity drain through a straight, non-lift muffler.  The caveat is that this won’t flush the strainer or pump.  

What both emphasize is to install a flush system that is convenient so that it will used regularly.  I am not debating if a flush cap with the seacock open is effective with amount of raw water entry – I have that setup now and use it.  I serviced my aftercooler this week and it was very clean – I attribute this to regular flushing.  <br /><br />What’s I’m trying to do is improve the convenience of my flush setup.  Doing that through that so I can flush with the engine off would do that. I’m reasonably certain my setup will support this, but wanted a second opinion.  

[Brad Arrington]

I got it sorted.  The o-ring was I the wrong position. When the lid was removed, the smaller o-ring was on the smaller shaft of the lid.  It LOOKS like it should fit at the base of the lid.  It actually belongs on outer lip of the lid receiver. Reinstalled it and all fit properly.   

1 user thanked author for this post.

John

[Brad Arrington]

I guess I’d consider myself in the “hands-on” category, and proficient with electric. I’m also not afraid to admit I don’t know what I’m doing, and go learn how to do things properly.  <br /><br />Sometimes I forget that not everyone is that way.  I tend to assume anyone posting here is in the same category.  

[Brad Arrington]

You could also use something like a Macromatic time delay relay.  The delay is settable, from something like .5 seconds to 1000 hours (depends on the model). I’d think one that allows a time delay of a few hours would work.  <br /><br />Wire the heater to the load, and the control side to a switch.  The switch would  need to be powered to keep the coil switch shut, but it could be either DC or AC power – there are both types of relays.  Just pick a power source that will be energized when away from the boat.  <br /><br />

One of the ones from this page should work.   These are a plug-in type; you would need a socket to go with it.  

When you leave the boat, flip the switch for the relay and a few hours later the pan heater will come on.  I have a friend that uses one of these delay relays to simplify the holding tank macerator operation.  Pic attached. <br /><br />

 

[Brad Arrington]

Just a thought – perhaps use an in-line dispenser to add salt-away to the flush water.  That would help reduce the impact of any residual salt coming in from the sea cock.  

[Brad Arrington]

Thanks.  Seems like a random piece of gear.   I tossed it, just wondered what it would be used on.  

[Brad Arrington]

Would like to know how your zincs faired when you check them.

I’m afraid I’m just slightly too lazy to close my sea cock when flushing. It’s mounted outboard and forward of the exhaust side, and requires either laying across the engine and a long reach, or some yoga moves to get to it. I also like backflushing and ensuring I don’t over pressure the system with dockside water pressure.

My generator zinc probably faired better. That will have a comparatively larger flow of fresh water due to the smaller raw water hose diameter.

[Brad Arrington]

Comments based on the QSC 8.3 600 in my boat. This was my first season with the boat, and prior to launch I installed strainer flush caps. I consistently flushed the engine after every outing for minimum 5 minutes. Process was to connect the hose to the flush cap and open the valve – the 2″ seacock was not closed.

My zincs were changed April 28. I checked them at layup, November 12. The aftercooler and heat exchanger zincs were not eroded, but were soft and starting to spall a bit. They will need to be replaced.

The fuel/oil cooler zincs were well eaten.

Perhaps if I closed the seacock there would be less mixing and the zincs would last longer.

[Brad Arrington]

Thanks for the link to the soot issue. Seems like a call to my local Cummins service guy is in order for that. I’d think it would be covered under the warranty.

As for the aftercooler grease, understand about getting them serviced for a baseline. I’m curious what what would cause the grease to leak out there, and if it’s likely to be a significant issue. In other words, can I wait a while to get the baseline service, or get this looked at ASAP?

[Brad Arrington]

Photos attached

[Brad Arrington]

Fireisland1 wrote:

1200 hp. / 41’ boat . I would also like to see how under powered it is.

All Back Cove with inboards are single engine.

[Brad Arrington]

My understanding from reading posts of a guy who owns a pair in a Sea Ray is that having a good tech is really important. He has what he refers to as his “Man-man”. He seems to like his engines very much, but are expensive to maintain. This both from parts and from service. The service network seems to be pretty thin, so I’d think it would be important to find out who can service them and if they have a good reputation.

[Brad Arrington]

On a diesel boat they are to remove heat from the engine space after running the boat. It’s a good practice to run the boat at idle for a few minutes after being at speed in order to reduce heat in the engine. Some boaters have a no wake zone where this is accomplished; some don’t. One way to help reduce heat when you don’t have have a no wake zone is to run a bilge blower.

Meridian made some models that could be powered by either gasoline or diesel engines. They may have left the twin blowers in order to simplify the build process and not deviate from standard build practices. My boat’s only power options are diesel and has a single blower.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Robert Vetrano

[Brad Arrington]

Harry Karaoglanian wrote:

For a new boat or a new used boat? Haha. My broker keeps telling me there’s no way they would add that to a policy for a 2001/2002.

Maybe I need to find a new broker……

Used. But it’s a 2019 model.

[Brad Arrington]

Harry Karaoglanian wrote:

Unplanned mechanical failure insurance –

My policy is with progressive – they didn’t allow this due to the engines being 2001/2002. How did you get this policy? Also, if you can direct me to a company/broker that could add this to mine?

Thanks!

Happy new year!!

I just got insurance for my new boat. Both New Hampshire and Travellers policies I considered had this coverage. I used a local broker.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Harry Karaoglanian

[Brad Arrington]

Matthew wrote:

Volvo D6 is for sure in mainteinance far more expensive,and it has parts like aftercooler that are not serviceable like Cummins,you can clean it once,next time no way,because they are fresh water cooled,and if not using original Volvo coolant(60L),and changing it every 2 years,this aftercooler getc clogged up,and engine starts to overheat.

Price for new one is also big one,and in general,Volvo parts are expensive. I am working also with Volvo,but if you can choose between Volvo and Cummins,Cummins is better option for boat owner.

The point about the aftercooler is a good one. However, I think the design of the D8 cooler may be different from the D6. The D8 specs state the aftercooler is seawater-cooled. I had initially thought that perhaps it was fresh water-cooled, and therefore some of the service intervals would be extended. Perhaps this is not the case.

[Brad Arrington]

Rob Schepis wrote:

Yes, it was indeed a typo. The 6 is right above the 3.

Support like this site provides is certainly a factor for owners that like to do their own maintenance.

[Brad Arrington]

Kevin Lee wrote:

Hi, Robert,

Thanks for the posts. I’ve been following this thread.

You added a run for the A/C. Do you do this each time? Being in FL, I figure you would be running the A/C all the time at the dock, so flushing is of little value. I’m in SWFL, and I set up a manifold system to flush the A/C either with fresh water or, by closing the discharge lines, with recirculating Barnacle Buster. Other than that, I don’t flush the A/C as it’s always running.

I am interested in setting up a flush system for the engines and genset. I would prefer a system like you made so I don’t have to go to the engine room to flush.

Thanks,

Kevin

I know a fellow that almost lost his new downeast style boat recently. He had been leaving the AC system on dehumidify while away from the boat. The hoses to the copper AC lines were only single clamped and one came off, flooding the bilge with salt water as the AC pump continued to run. What saved the boat is the water spray tripped a breaker for the AC pump.

[Brad Arrington]

Robert Vetrano wrote:

Finally got around to finishing my FWF setup and it works great!!! Got the manifold mounted in my transom locker, and put a QD on the hose end so it’s super easy to just throw my hose on there and let ‘er rip. I also have it running to my existing FW setup that was OEM for the air conditioning and the genny.

Just wondering if it would be a good idea to double clamp those hoses?

[Author]

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