Wolverines

[William Walter]

Love my wolverines but after a year and a half it seems one has failed.Doesn’t seem like there is any trouble shooting to do as basically there is just a plug and a pad.Anybody have to take one off and replace. Seems like a pain to remove.I was hoping for more than a year and a half.outlet is fine.Bill

Topic

[William Walter]

Wolverines with thermostat

Tjborro I found those on Amazon. I was considering them also but the reviews weren’t great.About 100 bucks each.One reviewer said he got about a year and a half on his in the marine environment.But if you read all the reviews it’s hard to buy anything.They would seem to be a perfect solution if they last.Let us know.Bill

[tjborro]

wolverine with thermostadt

I lost of mine also after about 1.5 years.

looking for the replacement, I found one with a thermostadt.

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[Laurence Warden]

I use the Wolverine pads on both engines and have them connected to a simple controller with a thermocouple attached to the block just above the oil pan.  This seems to work well and so far I have a couple years out of them.

The controller is similar to this one:

 

[William Walter]

Thanks for all the ideas.Some good suggestions. I think a better solution would be a pad that is designed to only come on when below a certain temperature. I know the pads were mostly designed for winter operations on cars and trucks. Perhaps a version for marine use could be designed that has a temperature sensor so they would be more effective for 24/7 operation..I’m sure they would cost more but we have boats so we are used to that.

[Brad Arrington]

I guess I’d consider myself in the “hands-on” category, and proficient with electric. I’m also not afraid to admit I don’t know what I’m doing, and go learn how to do things properly.  <br /><br />Sometimes I forget that not everyone is that way.  I tend to assume anyone posting here is in the same category.  

[Tony Athens]

Very Good solution but only for those that are totally  “hands-on” and got a  “A” in   ” Basic Electricity 101″

[Brad Arrington]

Time delay relay

You could also use something like a Macromatic time delay relay.  The delay is settable, from something like .5 seconds to 1000 hours (depends on the model). I’d think one that allows a time delay of a few hours would work.  <br /><br />Wire the heater to the load, and the control side to a switch.  The switch would  need to be powered to keep the coil switch shut, but it could be either DC or AC power – there are both types of relays.  Just pick a power source that will be energized when away from the boat.  <br /><br />

One of the ones from this page should work.   These are a plug-in type; you would need a socket to go with it.  

When you leave the boat, flip the switch for the relay and a few hours later the pan heater will come on.  I have a friend that uses one of these delay relays to simplify the holding tank macerator operation.  Pic attached. <br /><br />

 

[Tony Athens]

Clark,

You are a good thinker!  Thanks

[Clark Leighs]

Tony’s mention of a delay device would be a good idea. 

An Airpax switch , NC, chosen to open at something like 120oF could be installed glued to the pan as close to the Pad as possible.   

They  would open  shutting the pad off  as the oil temp rises.    THey generally have a return closing of about 10F meaning it would not reclose untill about 110 F.

Tony may have some or can be obtained from electronics supplies such as Mouser, Newark and so on.

I can’t remember the current rating so check that out.   It may mean you need the Airpax to operate a relay.

THe relay won’t stand the heat but will the current chosen correctly so it would need to be mounted elsewhere  and the Airpax will withstand the heat and control the relay.  Get a relay with at least 1.5 or 2 times the current expected of the pan heater.

 

THe pad will still get hot from the oil but won’t overheat the same way.   This is just a suggestion as I have never tried it in this application..

 

[Tony Athens]

Wolverine OIL PAD Heaters

I am certain that if the units are left on (maybe the gen set feeds them 120vAC) when the engine is running and oil pan temps rise, the life of the pads will be reduced.  Oil sump temps can easily reach over 200 F ( usually run  20-40 F over coolant temps)

Plugging them in after a  trip and are now back at the dock ( engine hot) will probably  also reduce their life too, but you gotta do what you gotta do.. A delay circuit gizmo for them ( maybe a couple of hours) when 1st turning them on would be neat.

[William Walter]

Rob when I talked to the rep he told me the life of the pad would be reduced significantly if they were left on 24/7.He gave me a number of hours for the life expectancy of the pads which I’m sure I never approached so I had to wonder why mine failed. I’m pretty sure the installation was good so I started thinking about how I used them.Since I thought they were 24/7 I never hesitated to turn them on when leaving boat and the engines were still hot.I’m guessing that they should never be turned on until the pan has cooled to a certain point.Just a guess at that.

[Rob Schepis]

What did the manuf. tech guy say ?

[William Walter]

Clark I agree with all you wrote. I’m sure my install was not the issue .They were prepped properly and are very tight on the pan at this time. From what I read on this site I was led to believe they could be used 24/7.After talking to the manufacturer tech department I was told that was incorrect.They have a finite life which everything has but it’s not as long as we would like. I’m thinking my time was cut down because of overheating. I would sometimes turn them on when I was leaving the boat and the engines were still hot.Not sure if that was my issue but maybe. I wanted them on while I was away and thought nothing more about it till they both quit.

[Clark Leighs]

They should last longer.     However like all things electrical/mechanical there can be a failure rate.

A not quite right installation can also affect longevity.

If the pan mounting area was not properly prepared, clean of any/all paint, grease an oil free, proper application of the  mounting goo  with as thin a layer as possible and exclusion of all air pockets, with adequate support so the pad cannot sag then heat may build in those inadequately prepared areas.

THat can lead to overheating of the heater and  failure.

 

 

Just some ideas

[Author]

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