[Walter Schwab]

Sorry for the confusion… There is a place for two zincs. In the picture there is a modified zinc plug holding a shrader valve and the other one has a pressure testing port.

[Walter Schwab]

I use a Noland Engineering RS11 to put the engine data on a N2K bus. https://www.nolandeng.com/

[Walter Schwab]

What would the zincs have looked like if there was no freshwater flush? Need to have a side by side comparison to see the effectiveness of the flush.

[Walter Schwab]

Thanks for your response, Tony.

Compression test was done as preventative maintenance since I had the injectors pulled for testing and rebuild. This is a second hand boat and I decided after 4000 hours and who knows what marine time was involved so I decided to do some PM. There are no real problems, all seemed to be starting and running OK. No smoke except white at startup.

I have not done a blow-by test, it is on my to-do list. I’ll have to rig up a test instrument like in your description. A couple of things are not clear to me in the blow-by test. Do I run the engine at 2200, 2500, and 2800RPM at idle or under load (dynamometer condition)? I suspect it needs to be done running the boat through the water. Secondly, I’m not sure where the crank case vent is on my engine. I have a AirSep filter, Is it the top hose to the filter?

Why aren’t the compression values published. Why the big secret? I’m sure someone must have recorded compression values on different aged engines.

[Walter Schwab]

Looks like the tank very rusted and the metal is weak in places. The pressure cap looks new. Remove the tank and have it pressure tested. You will probably have to replace it. I would have the whole cooling system pressure checked for other weak areas.

[Walter Schwab]

What is the torque value for the idler and tension pulleys? How do I get the dust cover off the old idler pulley?

[Walter Schwab]

I used one of these Astro Pneumatic Tool 78314 Metric 3/8” Drive Low Profile Nano Impact Sockets (14 Piece) from Amazon. It’s a shorty socket but the beauty is that it has a 17mm outside hex that you can get a beefy wrench on instead of a wimpy 10mm wrench.

[Walter Schwab]

I have just been going through this process. I see a lot of corrosion in the pics and I would remove the elbow and see whats going on with the elbow and the turbo. It took, in my case, an effort to free the bolts holding the elbow to the turbo. Spend a few soaking the bolts with a product that will let you free the bolts. I had to buy some special shorty metric sockets to do the job. Don’t try it with open end wrench you’ll just round over the bolt head. Read up on freeing stuck bolts. I would have loved to get an impact driver on the bolt heads but no room. Let me know how it goes.

[Walter Schwab]

Here are lots of pictures. I hope these help.

The water line is about level with the top of the rear engine mount. The exhaust from the muffler exits above and below the water line. The main exhaust exit is below the waterline. The wet elbow is above the waterline as is the turbo.

I found out from DeAngelo, the elbow maker that the last one ordered was from 2009. So I guess about 10 years lifetime but I’m not sure how many engine hours that is.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[Walter Schwab]

Thanks for the responses. Here is more info.

I cleaned out the wet elbow and found lots of pits. To find if any of the pits were holes I plugged the raw water inlet and pored water into the outer pipe and saw two leaks (see first pic).

The elbow is off the boat for cleaning and inspection so the best I could so was to set up the elbow in its installed orientation (pic 2) to show the rise – about 2.25″. I hope this pic helps. I guess the elbow needs to be replaced. How will I know when the turbo needs to be replaced?

The engine was run about two weeks before the pictures. Do I freshwater flush? No.
Have I ever identified the static loaded water line? Sorry, I don’t know what that is. Please tell me.

When should I replace the hump hoses?

[Walter Schwab]

Here is how it works on my boat also with a 6bta 370 (see pdf below). You will need a combiner, another battery switch ( in case your start battery dies you can start the engine with the house batteries), a couple of 150 breakers, and an inverter/charger to keep everything charged up when your’e plugged in to shore power.

[Author]

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