[Julian]

And make sure you top the fuel filter off as much as possible. I get it in position under the housing. Fill it to the top with a cup and then put it on. It will fire right over with just a few pumps.

[Julian]

Yes it will get stiff and squeak. It shouldnt take more than a few pumps.

Try to start it and with some throttle. Back it off as soon as it fires. Run it for a bit before you leave your slip.

If it dies, loosen all 6 injectors 1/2 a turn, crank for a few seconds, retighten, pump, and try again.

[Julian]

I finally got it bled. I loosened the line into the fuel filter at the motor. Lots of air released. I pumped the manual primer. Reopened that line again. More air. The manual primer got tight and got the sqeak Rob mentioned. But she wouldnt start. I cracked open an injector, that same line into the filter, topped off the racor. Pumped again. Gave her some throttle and she fired over.

[Julian]

Didnt want to start a new thread. I cant get my port 6bt engine to prime. I get a little fuel leaking from the prime bulb when I pump it, but it doesnt tighten up and when I cracked an injector, I got nothing.

Should I loosen the line at the on engine fuel filter?

I had loosened a couple fuel lines changing the impeller and that lost my prime.

Im afraid to try wot start. Is that ok for the motors?

[Julian]

The issues that 6bts have are of the human kind, with lack of maintenance and improper exhaust setups and overpropping.

Do you have the maintenance records? I cant see the videos. We need to see the exhaust setup to make sure seawater isnt backflowing into the turbos.

When were the aftercoolers serviced? I do mine every 2 years, the seaboard way.

What is your rpm at full throttle, fully loaded?

1 user thanked author for this post.

FourWinnsMike

[Julian]

Couple tips to add:
If the keyway is at 12 o’clock when you pull the impeller, the key should stay in the pump housing and not fall out.

You can turn the ignition key briefly and spin the pump until you get it facing the right direction.

For pulling, snap-on part CJ83-3 (around $30) fits the threads and is an excellent puller. I used a hacksaw to cut the unthreaded 1/4″ section off right where the threads start so it can easily thread into the impeller.

Just tighten it up with a ratchet and it will slowly pull the old impeller out.

[Julian]

They should hit 3k, verify with a tach but you seem way overpropped.

1 user thanked author for this post.

ccs12345685

[Julian]

Few tips from a novice to a beginner until someone wiser comes along:

1) Engine room looks tight to me. Is there enough room to work around the motors? Always keep this in mind.
2) Exhaust setup looks suspect.
Read: https://www.sbmar.com/articles/designing-a-marine-exhaust-system/
Not enough rise=seawater intrusion to the turbo=major corrosion.
3) Maintenance records for the cooling system. Was it properly serviced every 2 years or so?

[Julian]

donald roth wrote:

Paint job on motors looks new, be aware that painting a motor does not make it new, is more often down to hide previous neglect.

Detailing the motors is hiding previous neglect now? I touch mine up each year. It helps reduce the spread of rust on older motors. Having the wolverine pad heaters also helps a lot with eliminating condensation.

[Julian]

Black smoke at cruise – 6BTA M3 -370 hp

[Julian]

Is there a good prop shop near you? You tell them what its doing and what you want and they will get you sorted out.

[Julian]

Wolverine pad heaters and never use the air heaters again.

[Julian]

Did sea ray do the exhaust properly on these? Hard to see from the photos.

[Julian]

My 32 starboard engine does the same thing. Gonna remove mine too. Got my hand in a cast for a month then the wolfs are going in.

[Julian]

Would you mind posting a photo of the turbo if it is not too much trouble? Have you pulled the other turbo and inspected it?

[Julian]

I tried starting mine once with a bad racor bowl that had a crack. It would not start. I pumped, bled the injectors and nothing and finally discovered it was the bowl. This lead me to also conclude that the 6bt is very sensitive to fuel pressure. Any small leak in the system will prevent fuel from flowing.

[Julian]

Pressure testing is a crucial part of aftercooler maintenance. When were your aftercoolers last serviced? It should have been done then.

[Julian]

Do these finer filters choke or put a strain on the fuel supply system? I was told to stick with 30 in my racors.

[Julian]

I would recommend that you take some videos since they can be paused and screenshots taken.

Try to get every angle. I would expect everyone will want to see how the turbos look, what the exhaust setup is like, how the aftercoolers look, the condition of the hoses and lines, signs of rust, any signs of leaks.

Ask when the aftercoolers were serviced.
Those are old engines and if the maintenance was not kept up the pictures will tell a lot.

Obviously you will want an engine survey but you dont want to waste money on one if the engine shows obvious problems.

[Julian]

Well Im just going to clean it up with scotch brite and paint it. Shame they left it unpainted when they replaced it.

[Author]

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