Thanks Tony blunt as always but Iām sure you get sick of people doing what I did and asking instead of looking sorry!
Your advice is spot on as always and I removed the coupler and stage 1 is failing, the local dealer has the parts and will rebuild the couplers!
Thanks again for your advice saved me $$$ and learnt something in the process
Ohh also what torque should I use for the coupler and also the bell housing bolts?
Regards
Andrew
Thanks Tony, Iāve contacted the local supplier in Hong Kong with regard to both options, Iāll wait and see if they get back to me or I may have to reach out to the USA dealer but they may not ship here with there being a dealer here already. Typical problem we have in HK is that the dealers are useless hopefully thatās not the case with Centa
Regards
Andrew
So when I pulled the gearbox back I found a chunk chunk of rubber. I canāt seem to see where that has come from. Please see more photoās attached. You can also see Matt the little bits that have been expelled out the vent holes that made me start wondering about the torsional coupler.
Regards
Andrew
Ok finally got out to the boat, please see photoās attached, I will post a second batch of pics.
Thanks in advance for your help Tony!
Regards
Andrew
Was hoping that wasnāt going to be the case, it will be a couple of weeks before I get back to the boat, traveling in Canada and the USA was hoping to be able to get the coupler whilst state side. Iāll post photos when I get back and pull it apart.
Regards
Andrew
Thanks for that, I suspected that was the case. Hopefully Tony chimes in here, otherwise I will email him directly.
Regards
Andrew
It got pulled to renew the bottom paint, once it was lifted we could see the cutlass where the shaft goes through the hull had become loose and backed out of its holder.
I have also undone the coupler and Rea attached it moving one hole at a time. Whilst I didnāt have a gauge on it to my untrained eye in made no difference to the vibration.
Cheers
Andrew
I know its the STBD Engine because Ive been in the engine room and see that engine shaking and the port Is rock solid could set my coffee on the port.
The Stbd Engine in gear at idle has noticeable movement (fwd gear only) . the vibration is noticeable during power up/down around 1100-1400 rpm . outside that range there is no noticeable vibration unless you go look at the engine and there is some movement but it is very rapid at operating RPM, 2600 typically for us. There is no noticeable wear between the engine and the gearbox.
I have not inspected the Torsional coupling (had to google it to know what it was). There is some dust on both gearboxes which I assumed was clutch dust? looks like very fine rust powder but easily wipes off the gear box housing. This is present on both gearboxes in the same quantity.
I have also run the boat in gear with the shaft coupling disconnected and there is no noticeable vibration unless the shaft and prop are connected and spinning.
Cheers
Andrew
last year (2015) no we didn’t other than towards the end of the season they started to indicate some vacuum but still well in the green, Ā This year yes we have seen high vacuum on the mud filter, Ā we have had some contamination with diesel bug, it was evident when we changed filters last year but it was significantly worst this year and I had to do a mid season mud filter change due high vacuum, Ā we were getting high vacuum due bug again just before I changed out the mud filters. Ā I haven’t taken the boat for a run since changing the mud filters again so not sure where the vacuum will indicate or if the 1000 will also need changing.
cheers
Andrew
Tony, after Discussing our Options we have decided to go with the Barry Mounts from you guys. Ā I will modify the Front mounts on the port engine as required to get the mounts in. Ā I know you guys have a lot of experience with this and if you could look at the mounts in question and see if you have any advise for me. Ā Also any advise on where is safe to Jack the B series so that i can get it off the existing mounts would be greatly appreciated.
cheers
Andrew
Ok so I went out to the boat today and measured each mount independently I measured in MM converted to Inch, Ā below is what I have found.
Port Engine
Left hand front 80mm/3.15″
Right hand front 77mm/3.03″ Ā the worst clearance
Left hand Rear 90mm/3.54″
Right hand rear 84mm/3.31″
STBD Engine
Left hand front 83mm/3.27″
Right hand front 84mm/3.31″
Left hand rear 90mm/3.54″
Right hand rear 85mm/3.35″
what do you think tony? Ā I was a bit bummed out when i measured the right hand front. Ā the Boat is a 2002 Riviera and I would imagine these are the original mounts, is there any chance that they have sagged over 14 years? I’ve owned it for 4 years haven’t touched the mounts, had the cutlass bearings done on both engines no mention from the mechanics about alignment problems but in Hong Kong that doesn’t mean much.
The tightest clearance is on the front engine mounts, two thoughts I have had are
1)elongating the holes where the engine bracket bolts to the engine to gain some extra clearance.
Or
2) “flip the front mounts upside down and add hight to the stringer?”
Just trowing them out there as I’m sure you have been down this road many times.
Regards
Andrew
ok ill go re-measure and re-measure again, and get back to you.
cheers
Andrew
I thought we were a little short height wise, Ā from my measurements we have 85mm/3.34inch from the top of the stringer to the bottom of the engine mount.
Unfortunately we are not in a position to undergo major manufacturing of the engine mounts or the stringers at this point in time.
I guess ill have to go back to Bushing Inc and get some replacements until i’m in a position to get new engine mounts made.
So my next question is what is the easiest way to swap engine mounts out, is there a safe place to jack the engine off the mount or a safe place’s to support the engine whilst i remove one mount at a time?
Thanks
Andrew
So Tony, I guess that you mean by pre-loaded that the mounts are holding a side or fwd/aft force therefore should be perfectly upright. Ā I tried to capture this with the camera but easier said than done especially the outside mounts as they are below the hight of a ledge immediately next to them. Ā To my untrained eye when taking the photos it seems that if my understanding of pre-load is correct that the is little to no pre-load.
I have also included some pics of my mounts with a tape measure next to them, it seems to me from your information and several measurements that I have made that the Barry Mounts would fit without any modification to my current bracketing.
Apologies for some of the pictures being the wrong orientation, not sure how that happened as they all appear correctly orientated prior to posting?
Cheers
Andrew
hope this is what u were after more pics
still more
more pics
pics of all mounts hope this is what you need
Thanks Tony,
I found another couple of pics from further away, ill take better ones when I get out to the boat again.
Looks like from my measurements the barry Mounts would fit my Bracketing, Ā Is there anything you would recommend Modifying?
Regards
Andrew
