• Creator
    Topic
  • #134196

    blindhog
    Participant

    I’m looking at a boat with Cummins 300c’s and it has been sitting for 5-6 years on a lift.  Looking for recommendations, tips, etc on best procedures to run through prior to starting.  I’ve heard everything from just fire them up and go to add penetratingly oil to the cylinders for a week then see what happens.  Once I know they will fire up then I am planning on going through all the maintenance items and service everything so I can feel comfortable with the motors but any advice for the initial startup would be appreciated.

Viewing 20 replies - 21 through 40 (of 48 total)
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  • #136822

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Aftercooler servicing

    All this effort and you have not had the aftercoolers on the bench for proper servicing?

    Cummins Marine Aftercooler Maintenance

    Aftercooler Disasters

     

    #136821

    blindhog
    Participant

    Just got in the water. New tides shaft seals, new Seaboard exhaust on Port motor, new oil, water pump impellers, new fuel and oil filters, new bottom job, new turbos both motors, plus a few other odds and ends. Went for a sea trial, once the turbos spoiled up and about 2,400 rpm noticed the raw water hose aft of the pump swelled up about three times it size!  Looked like aftercoolers have some blockage. Had good water flow out the exhaust on both engines. Cruised back to the house at 1,000 rpm, no issues.  Comments appreciated on where to start first  I assume aftercoolers. 

    Now that it’s at the house I can start really digging in during spare time. <br /><br />Looking for recommendations on engine paint. Prefer nice white – I’m painting the entire engines so color match is not an issue but starting with the new turbos asap. Thanks!

    #135679

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    With the Tides lip seal the shaft surface needs to be “as new” — hopefully you don’t have an issue there with crevice corrosion or any other form of surface damage.  In some cases you can shorten the boot and bring the seal down to a new section of shaft.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #135678

    blindhog
    Participant

    After a couple hours with my mechanic we were able to get the shaft seal free and spinning  added grease to the grease cap and felt good about it being lose enough. That lasted for about three minutes in gear. At this point I don’t feel comfortable with these old seals so I’ve contacted tides marine for a new set. The port motor seal we broke free and can spin it by hand but it seems like it has a hard spot. I know I could replace the seals and go from there but no guarantees, so if I need to  go through a haul out and pull the shafts it makes more sense to just replace them altogether.  I did run the starboard motor in idle to start brining it up to temp when we smelled an electrical burning smell. Turns out the alternator was burning up so it’s coming off for a rebuild. 

    #135529

    blindhog
    Participant

    I don’t have good picture of the seal but I did confirm it is a Chatfiled Blue Water seal.  I’m thinking about maybe hitting it with a hammer on the bolts to try and “push” it aft just enough to break the seal lose from the shaft.  It has the cup on the top for grease so I will try and grease it as well (does not have the zerk fitting).

    #135517

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    Sounds like you got luckily you didn’t end up taking on water, and lots of it… Got a pic of what your dealing with – Tides lip seal or PSS face seal?

    The email notification thing has never been working from what I know but I check in regularly so a non issue.  Who needs any more emails anyway….

    #135485

    blindhog
    Participant

    Rob – went down there Sunday morning and the starboard motor fired right up and purred like a kitten, go figure.  Now for the next part, I put it in gear and instantly heard a very strange noise.  Tried reverse, another strange noise.  Shut down and lifted the hatch back up and found the shaft seal cooling water hose ripped apart.  Apparently the shaft seal is frozen on the shaft and was turning with the shaft.  Fortunately it did not twist off the stern tube, nor did it develop a leak.  Now I’m trying to figure out how to get it unfrozen so I can just move the boat to my house.  I was planning on hauling out later this year after hurricane season when the yards slow down, so any in-water tips/tricks would be grateful. 

    On a side note – does the forum email notification not work?

    #135420

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    You got neither engine to catch?  Did you pump the primer on the lift pump until your thumb was numb and then some more until you heard the squeak?

    Did you get her home?

    #135417

    blindhog
    Participant

    I know everyone has been on pins and needles, so changed the oil, fuel and oil filters, new impeller and tried to fire her up. She wanted to but wouldn’t go. I did fill the  fuel filter up with fuel but maybe some air got in?

    I have been talking to Justin @seaboard and will be sending my exhaust to him this week to rebuild.  <br /><br />

    thanks and this site has been a fantastic wealth of knowledge!

    #135118

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    A big factor here is how reliable is the starboard engine…  I’d probably pull the impeller on the port engine and only use it for docking maneuvers and otherwise run on the one engine. And most importantly make sure your Boat US / Seatow towing membership is active and proper. 

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #135115

    Gene Fuller
    Participant
    Vessel Name: Yorkshire Rose
    Engines: QSB5.9 380
    Location: Punta Gorda, Florida
    Country: USA

    Who knows what else might be wrong?

    I would arrange a tow.

    #135113

    blindhog
    Participant

    I was thinking 1.5 hours at idle which I assumed 5 knots at slow idle. One option would be to shut down port motor and only use for docking. 

    #135112

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Rob——–2+ hours?  Your thoughts?  Pushing it a tad?

    #135110

    blindhog
    Participant

    Rob – the exhaust mixer has some leaks so not guaranteed the water will only come out at the shower head and not further upstream. <br /><br />

    the plan would be new oil, fuel filters, new impellers and idle the 9.4 miles back. Once at my house work is so much easier since I can work into the evening after work if desired. 

    #135108

    Rob Schepis
    Forum Moderator
    Vessel Name: Tenacious
    Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
    Location: Long Island, NY
    Country: USA

    To me a short run is from the travel lift to a slip in the same marina.  That could even be down without an impeller in the pump.  What’s the deal with the exhaust right now as is?  Does it have an active leak?

    #135105

    blindhog
    Participant

    I just created a route and it’s 9.4 miles back to my house. 

    #135102

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Define a short run at idle..

     

    #135101

    blindhog
    Participant

    Thank you Tony.

    I have reached out to several places including Seaboard of course, for quotes to redesign properly, but I am curious if I could run the boat as is, only in idle to move it. Someone suggested running the water out the back deck vs back into the exhaust and that at idle temps shouldn’t be an issue. I am not sure about this so would like to know your thoughts. This would be using the existing turbo that’s locked up not the new one. 

    #134759

    Tony Athens
    Moderator
    Vessel Name: Local Banks
    Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
    Location: Oxnard, CA
    Country: USA

    Tread very carefully based on you posted a and pics–Your exhaust are both “DOOMED TO FAILURE”, big time…………..They need to be completely re-engineered as to design, not repaired..

     

    Your call on how you move fwd

     

    Tony,

    #134677

    1969Roamer46
    Participant
    Engines: 1999 6CTA M2 420
    Location: Mid-Atlantic

    Sounds like a plan! Good luck, and keep us posted on how it goes!

    Cheers,<br />Q

    1 user thanked author for this post.
Viewing 20 replies - 21 through 40 (of 48 total)

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