Cummins Marine Diesel Repower Specialists › Forums › General Discussion › 30 amp plug
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November 13, 2018 at 2:32 pm #41551
William WalterParticipantVessel Name: Positive rate
Engines: Cummings 480ce
Location: Long island
Country: Usa
I have a 50 amp service and a 30 amp service on my 38 Tiara.The 30 amp has been popping the breaker when only drawing about 15 amps so I took the outlet apart and noticed some melting in the outlet.There is no extra wire to pull out so I can cut back on the wire so I was going to pigtail more wire so I have room to work.is crimping this wire the norm for this situation.thx Bill
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January 28, 2019 at 10:50 am #55577
William.
Hard to tell from your pic but it looks like your connection is the same as mine was on my Pursuit, low on the deck and getting washed in salt water on rough days and soaked when it rained, and the cables all over the deck.Another option if it works for you would be to shift it up under the gunnel where it stays dry, on mine the cable actually dropped down to the original location so I didnt have to lengthen the wires. I put a plate over the original location.
January 28, 2019 at 8:03 am #55544
William WalterParticipantVessel Name: Positive rate
Engines: Cummings 480ce
Location: Long island
Country: Usa
Confusion
Sorry for confusion.being that the wire was too short to splice at the inlet plug I put new wire from the new plug to the circuit breaker.the wire I used for that purpose was a short section of 30 amp power cord.only problem with that cord was at plug which was burnt.i cut way back from that.i liked the idea that wire was also now protected with an additional coating of rubber and it was onboard already.Hoping that will help with more chafe protection.not that that was my issue.original problem occurred when my canvas guy was working on canvas in that area and didn’t put cord back properly with twist.first splice job didn’t work because wire was not cut back enough because wire was short.hopefully all is well now.Bill
January 28, 2019 at 6:27 am #55537
Rob SchepisForum ModeratorVessel Name: Tenacious
Engines: 6BTA 5.9 330's - "Seaboard Style"
Location: Long Island, NY
Country: USA
I used the old 30 amp marinco plug wire that was burnt at the plug.left the yellow outer on and was able to snake it plug to circuit breaker.i assume this wire is suitable.power is working fine so far
Confusing as written by I am interpreting this that you cut the head off of your shore power cord and wired the cord directly to your onboard shore power main breaker, thus eliminating the twist connect in the cockpit and eliminating the bad run of wiring from the twist connect to the onboard breaker. So I guess access wasn’t too bad if you got that done…
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January 27, 2019 at 7:22 pm #55531
Tony AthensModeratorVessel Name: Local Banks
Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
Location: Oxnard, CA
Country: USA
Bill.
You have “bad, high resistance connections”……………………………………………
Until you decide to redo the wiring until its right, nothing is going to change with any band-aid type approaches……….
In so many words, you need to start fresh with a proper plan ………
Tony
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January 27, 2019 at 7:05 pm #55527I caught the same issue on mine this summer
I had exactly the same situation, burnt plug, the odd breaker popping for no reason.
When I took out my receptacle from its spot under the gunwale I found the strain relief arm which held the wires secure from movement had frayed through the hot wire which was corroding way from salt air.
I got to it just in time before a short occurred and pulled a new run of triplex under the better safe than sorry approach to boat maintenance.
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January 27, 2019 at 3:27 pm #55510
William WalterParticipantVessel Name: Positive rate
Engines: Cummings 480ce
Location: Long island
Country: Usa
As a follow up I was unable to pigtail the wires because of not enough excess wire. Went down there today as I was hoping to get it going so I could give the batteries a charge as I’m layed up for winter.came up with the idea of running new wires instead as I figured those wires just run to the circuit breaker.the circuit breaker is only about a foot away but access is impossible in that area.since it was Sunday and everything was closed I used the old 30 amp marinco plug wire that was burnt at the plug.left the yellow outer on and was able to snake it plug to circuit breaker.i assume this wire is suitable.power is working fine so far.Bill
November 14, 2018 at 9:13 am #41696
Justin RiegeModeratorFireisland makes a good observation, that looks like regular ol un-tinned building wire and ideally you should be using tinned wire designed for marine applications.
However, it doesn’t look exceedingly corroded where you cut it back, so you might be able to get a bit more life out of it. Follow corey’s advice and crimp some pigtails on their, use some corrosion x and shrink wrap the connection. If you do all of that it should get you by for a while.
Next time you have a little extra time and money you really should replace with tinned wire. At the very least you need to inspect your wiring for corrosion. If its all raw copper building wire, it needs to be very protected by copious amounts of grease, corrosion x, or something to provide even a modest service life in a marine application. Keep an eye on it, bad electrical connections can be dangerous.
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November 13, 2018 at 7:30 pm #41609
Tony AthensModeratorVessel Name: Local Banks
Engines: QSB 6.7 550 HP
Location: Oxnard, CA
Country: USA
High resistance corroded connections cause high amp draw/heat/etc………………………..
Ever read this from 15+ years ago? Links are dated the gist of it will NEVER CHANGE…………..
Tony
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November 13, 2018 at 6:37 pm #41593
Fireisland1ParticipantVessel Name: Riverwind
Engines: cummins QSB 380
Location: long island n.y.
Country: usa
I would remove the wire completely and replace with tinned copper. That wire does not look right.
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November 13, 2018 at 2:48 pm #41555
Corey SchmidtForum ModeratorVessel Name: Rebel Belle
Engines: Cummins
Location: Oxnard, CA
Country: USA
I like using non-insulated butt connectors for things like this… just dip the wire ends into Corrosion-X and heat shrink well…. should be good to go!
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