[Kevin Carlson]

It is a 1998 37′ Bayliner. The silver sensor on the right is the oil pressure sensor for the dash gauges. I know this because I replaced  it ($20) when my gauges stopped working. Also when I bought the boat the warning buzzers didn’t work and I had to buy the sensor on the left from Cummins ($250 in 2013), which fixed the problem. The reason I am thinking that it controls the air heaters is that the buzzer problem started happening when I went with the manual heat setup.

Sorry the correct serial # 45661773

[Kevin Carlson]

In Tony’s article he shows adding an auxiliary solenoid to power the heater elements. I don’t see why you couldn’t use the existing solenoids from the ECM and just hook up power to the low amperage connections. They are already hooked up to the heater elements.
Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Well after spending hours running a power line to the fuse on the engine from the ignition switch, everything worked fine; once!
Now it never works. I thought maybe I have to ground the other side of the fuse, so I ran a wire to ground, no difference.
Does this mean the ECM on both engines suddenly doesn’t work? How much is a new ECM?

Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

If a person wanted to just remove the fuel cooler, could they disconnect the 2 hoses circled in blue and connect them together?
Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Thanks Tom that is exactly how I plan to use it, but it is nice to know that if you forget to turn it off the system will still act normally. I was worried that the air heaters would be on all the time the switch was on.
Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Well for those out there that are as dense as me, the correct way to activate the ECM circuit as shown in the article is to apply power to one side of the fuse terminal as I described above.
I did like Firehoser75 said and took the power off of the ignition switch to a 3 amp fuse and then to the on/off switch.
And to answer my second question, after doing this the ECM controls all functions normally. It cycles on and off every 5 seconds and cuts out at 950 RPMs.

Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Ok I am going to need some serious hand holding. The article say to put a switch between the 2 wires designated, so when the switch is closed it would be the same as if the fuse were in place.
So I guessed that I would have to apply power to one of the wires. I tested both side of the fuse holder and found one went to ground and the other one didn’t. So I applied power to that one and the solenoid clicked.
So my question is do I only have to get power to one side of the fuse holder and everything will work.

Second question is: If this works will the ECM still control everything so that the it will cycle the heat and shut down at the correct temp and RPM?

Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Firehoser7 5,
did you use the existing magnetic switches (solenoids) and heavy wiring or set it up like in Tony’s tips?

Simple Cummins Marine Grid Pre-Heater Control Setup

With 2 heating elements per engine and 2 engines this seems like a daunting task without using the existing solenoids.
Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

It appears the only thing I can check is the 10 amp fuse that goes to the ECM. Would this red button be that fuse?

[Kevin Carlson]

The exhaust water injection that close to the turbo without a good rise seems suspect. Probably killed the turbo. This wouldn’t necessarily cause the hard start though.

[Kevin Carlson]

I’m with Mr. Fausett, where is this located? I have a 1998 270 HP Cummins and may not have this, but if I do I would like to know.

[Kevin Carlson]

Okay, thanks again to all for the help. There was a gasket on the pump flange just not doing the job. I replaced it. Hopefully I will have an easier time on the port engine

Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Attached is the gear housing (circled) that you told me to remove instead of the 4 bolts that hold the water pump to the gear housing. When I removed it there was a large gear that turns the pump.

[Kevin Carlson]

I removed the fuel line from the fuel pump and it worked to make it easier to get the impeller out. I think Rob is right I was close enough that I could have forced it out and gotten the new one started. Then the problems start. I got the new impeller 3/4 of the way in, with the spline aligned and it wouldn’t go any farther. I ended up removing the motor mount so I could reach the lower bolt on the gear housing. There is a gap just behind the cam which allows the impeller blades to expand preventing the impeller from going any farther. After removing the pump I was able to rotate the gear and push on the impeller to get the rest of the way in.
The added fun to this experience is that I dropped a copper gasket for the fuel line banjo bolt, never to be found, and thel local Cummins dealer is out of them so I have to wait until Tuesday for a new one. The injection pump is leaking about one diaper full a day while I wait.
Also, the gear housing doesn’t have a gasket and is leaking some oil. Would Rectoseal work as a gasket?

Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Okay thanks everyone. I figured I could manhandle the impeller by the fuel hose on the starboard engine, but laying on my side, stretched out on the port side would be a problem. I am looking for the easiest way.

Yes Tony I did install the new pumps, but that was over 3 years ago and I had the motor mount arms removed to get the old pump out. I didn’t take any pictures to remind me where the bolts were.
I have about 300 hours on these impellers.

I think I will try removing the fuel hose first, then if that gets too messy I will see about removing the whole pump per Tony’s instructions.

Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

It would seem that raising the engine 1/2 inch would raise the arm between the engine and mount, which would leave the arm in exactly the same orientation as it is now. It would still be in the way.

The adapter you mentioned, is that the spacer for the arm. If so I tried that when I removed the old Sherwood pump and it didn’t work. It seems my easiest course of action is to move the fuel line.

Kevin

[Kevin Carlson]

Tony, I pulled the risers because they were ostensibly 19 years old, so just for peace of mind. I think the rust is seawater leaking by the gasket since the port turbo has no rust.

Rob, I do not have any heat in the engine room, I will look into something this winter. Hopefully cleaning up the turbo surface will stop the leakage.

[Kevin Carlson]

I only have 1 poor photo showing the riser in place. It is a 37 Bayliner 1998 with 270 Cummins and 1300 hrs.
The risers are original from National Marine Exhaust here in the Seattle area.
I called them and asked if they could tell me the year and after sending him some photos of the stamping on the riser he said they were from the same era as the boat. (19 years). I have more room to have a higher rise in the riser but National Marine said I shouldn’t need it since I have water mufflers. The turbo blades look unaffected by water ingestion so I think the rust may be from leaking water.

[Author]

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